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It is always the little things - after getting back to putting the new motor back in I am having trouble getting the damper to seat fully on the engine stand.
It is still a good 1/4 inch from fully seated and I am looking for a better way to stop the rotation of the flywheel I guess.
Since this is keeping me from reinstallation any tips appreciated...
It is always the little things - after getting back to putting the new motor back in I am having trouble getting the damper to seat fully on the engine stand.
It is still a good 1/4 inch from fully seated and I am looking for a better way to stop the rotation of the flywheel I guess.
Since this is keeping me from reinstallation any tips appreciated...
thanks!
There is a special tool called a flywheel stop that locks it in place.
You could run over to home depot and buy a staright piece of flat metal and drill holes in to match rear crank bolts and the block and that would hold it in place.
There is a special tool called a flywheel stop that locks it in place.
You could run over to home depot and buy a staright piece of flat metal and drill holes in to match rear crank bolts and the block and that would hold it in place.
where can you get a flywheel stop - NAPA maybe?
The hand held flywheel tool I have is not getting it at all....
I can hunt for metal to work - guess I will need to pull the clutch and bellhousing back off....
After hemming and hawing a buddy helped me put the engine in today. It is bolted back up to the torque tube and subframe
Since I had no lift I went out the top with the drivetrain still in the car. In my case it required pretty much dropping the front subframe to get it out and made it much easier to get it back in.
I even remembered to get the headers positioned before I tightened up the subframe
Now it is just bolting all the peripherals back in...I labeled everything and bagged/labeled all the bolts - and took lots of photos...