After throwing a rod through the pan and block of my son's 130,000 mile LS1 99 FRC I have a rebuilt engine back from my machine shop.

I have not swapped engines in the C5 yet - but looking at the shop manual it looks like it is pretty straight forward. I know from C5 clutch and transmission swaps the factory manual details steps and processes that are not always required (e.g., remove rear spring).

Is it really necessary to recover the AC coolant? Or can you leave the AC system intact and pull the engine?

Do you really need to remove the front spring?

What does the "close out panel flange" do?

If you are going to drop the engine down - do you need to pull all the accessories (i.e., power steering pump)?

Is dropping the engine with front suspension attached the preferred method? The "book" seems to recommend removal from the top.

Is there a better link or tutorial on this job somewhere?

Any info appreciated.

Thanks,

jeff

 

Try this link

http://www.cajundude.com/engineswap.htm

 

Do you have access to a lift. It made my swap much easier.

Whatever you end up doing, make sure all of the ground wires are disconnected and reconnected. If not they will cause problems.

Some people have pulled it from the top.

For the A/C, I used large cable ties to secure it to the frame rail. I never cracked the system open.

Bob K.

 

When dealer replaced my engine they dropped it out the bottom.

 

I have access to a lift....

I iwll search out all the ground wires and reconnect them

Appreciate the info on the A/c


ajg1915 - hitting the link now!

 

Took me a while to download the photos - dial up limitations ...

Great site with lots of good info - he went out the top - but many tips work no matter which way you go

Anybody know of an equivalent for out the bottom?


thanks....

 

I just did a swap and went through the top, wish I would have done it from the bottom. I did not have a lift and thought it would be better to go in/out through the top, and I was wrong. The other thing is if you drop the rear as well it will be real easy to do the swap. I'm not sure what "book" you are looking at, but my GM shop manual for a 2000 only has dropping it, no mention of going out the top at all.

By dropping it I'm pretty sure you can leave on a lot, I was even thinking I might have been able to leave the headers on. The power steering definitely can be left on and will be easier to swap. The front cradle is like 6 nuts to remove, shocks and brake lines. I think you can leave the spring alone. If you drop the rear it will be easier to attach the engine to the drive train and attach the bell housing. I wasted several evenings doing both, could have save a couple of days by dropping it.

Also, I ended up probably doing 90% of what it would take to drop the front. So, you don't really save any steps, not much anyway. The engine was made to go out the bottom, by going out of the top you are just causing your self issues because it will be harder to get at nuts and bolts...

The AC is just left in the Vette either way you go, the pipes are not real fragile.

Good luck

 

I have access to a lift - it is not at my house though....

I have a 2002 Manual and a 1999 Manual (somewhere) - it is a little confusing since it kind of skips the steps to "remove front and rear crossmember bolts" then it does state raise vehicle off the engine - later it uses a hoist to get it out of the cradle - one reason I read it several times and ask someone with experience!

I will probably prep the car as much as possible then tow it to my friends lift....

Mine has headers and an oil cooler....

 

Picked up my fresh engine from the machine shop this morning - I have quite a bit to swap over!

 

If you have any questions call the shop and we wil be glad to help you out. 813-628-0080

Good luck with everything




Brad

 

Thanks - I was clearing out some of the daily drivers so far this weekend - CRX that does not want to start, Nova with a leaky power steering box (new one on me) and a Suburban with a coolant leak - somewhere.

I am almost to where I can see the Vette and work around it...

jeff

 

Several here on the forum have done it solo, including me...

If you have any questions, just bounce them off me... I am in the middle of replacing my engine now... I took it out the top... really not that bad...



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1770282

 

I have my intake off and it is pretty full of oil and has some small bits of aluminum inside.

I need to reuse it on the new motor (or buy an new intake ) - can it be cleaned to get the aluminum out?

thanks for any info!

 

Cleaning out a trashed intake is a lost cause - I still get peieces of metal periodically falling out.

I am going out the top with the engine with the torque tube/drivetrain still in - it seems pretty simple at the moment.

I also ordered a new TurnOne Power Steering pump - my original has 130,000 on it and I do not want to replace it anytime soon after I get it back together. I am ordering an LS2 pulley since it has holes in it to get to the bolts

Do you really need to buy a new damper bolt? I saw it recommended - but I am not sure why. It is a pretty hefty bolt to be a one time use..

 

OEM Damper bolt is torque to yield. It's not worth the hassle if it stretches and backs out. Buy a new one. my .02

 

Engine is out - not looking forward to lining everything back up to get it in again. That will require a few sets of hands and eyes I think...

Swapping parts over to the new engine and waiting for parts to arrive - my new TurnOne power steering pump is here and ready to go....

 

I did mine by myself it is not that bad. Just need a good level and a large c clamp to line the trans and tub up to the fly wheel pilot bearing. Good luck.

I have done this three time no so maybe the first time will be harder.

 

Use a NEW bolt! Some have had problems later - caused by re-useing that bolt.

 

I bought a new bolt - should be here soon.

I noticed there is no "key" on the crank or damper and there is no marking on the damper - so bolt the damper on however it randomly fits?

 

The front dampner fits over the crank without the need to be aligned. There is no keyway like on older cars. Make sure you replace the seal on the front cover. You don't want to pull the steering rack and dampner to replace a leaking seal!

I'm glad your getting a new bolt. The head bolts and crank bolt are one time use only, unless you get the ARP ones.

Bob K.