When changing pads and rotors with this generation corvette does one have to check rotor runout or can you change pads and rotors and be done like most other vehicles.

 

Never hurts but it's definitely a good idea to clean the wheel hub flange and rotor mating surface to ensure the wheel and rotor are aligned properly. The manual instructs pad and rotor burnishing as well.
________________________________________ ____________________
Burnishing Pads and Rotors

Caution
Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.

Caution
Refer to Brake Dust Caution in Cautions and Notices.

Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.

This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

1] Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.

2] Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).

Important
Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.

3] Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.

4] Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.
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FYI, here are the C5 brake specs.

 

If you experience the very common pulsating pedal, it is not likely that the rotor is warped. Rather, it may very well be uneven pad deposits on the rotor. I've found that using slotted rotors eliminates this condition, once and for all. If your brakes are not pulsating and the pedal isn't spongy (which is often a result of rotor runout allowing air to enter the brake fluid), you can safely abrade the rotors after verifying they meetthe factory minimum thickness spec.

 

The GM service manual actually recommends that you NOT resurface the rotors unless they are grooved or you are having uneven braking.
If you have deep grooves, you need to resurface the rotor or the pads will try to follow the grooves.

 

The direct answer to your question is you can treat it just like any other car with sealed bearings. The calipers do not have the air pumping problems associated with the fixed calipers of C2 and C3 fame where rotor runout could cause the complete loss of brakes. Excessive rotor runout on C4s and C5s may cause some pedal pulsation but that is a minor annoyance.

Bill

 

Here's the TSB on Brake Rotor Lateral Run Out

See the following TSB:

Brakes - Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction

File In Section: 05 - Brakes

Bulletin No.: 01~05-23-001A

Date: March, 2003

INFORMATION

Subject:
Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction

Models:
2003 and Prior Passenger Cars

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001 (Section 05 - Brakes).

This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B for additional brake rotor service procedures).

Important: Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation, such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.

Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.

GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors. This new method is called Brake Align(R) It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in) or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.

* We believe this source and their products to be reliable There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.

The Brake Align(R) Starter Kit will include an ample supply of Correction Plates, in various correction sizes, that will cover most current GM passenger car applications It will also include a Brake Align(R) tool kit containing a dial indicator and retaining washers along with other useful tools.

Service Procedure

Follow all the procedures referred to in Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B. Dealers who have purchased the Brake Align(R) Starter Kit may use the following simplified runout correction procedure:

1. The existing rotors must first be machined on an approved, well-maintained bench lathe to guarantee smooth, flat and parallel surfaces. Should the rotors require replacement, please note that this is not necessary to machine new rotors.

2. Make sure all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean, using the J 42450-A Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit. Mount the new or refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub onto the vehicle hub using the retaining washers provided in the kit. Do not reinstall the caliper or wheel at this time.

3. Tighten all the wheel nuts to the proper specification, using J 39544 Torque Socket or the equivalent.

4. Fasten the dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (1/2 in) from the rotor's outer edge.

5. Rotate the rotor and observe the total runout.

6. Index the rotor on the hub to achieve the lowest amount of lateral runout. This will require removal and reassembly of the rotor until the lowest total lateral runout reading is obtained. If this reading is .050 mm (.002 in) or less, the assembled rotor is within specification The brake system may be reassembled.

7. If total lateral runout is greater than .050 mm (.002 in), proceed with determining the correct Brake Align(R) Correction as follows:

^ Rotate the rotor to locate the lowest dial indicator reading and set the dial to zero.

^ Rotate the rotor to determine and locate the highest amount of lateral runout.


8. Remove the rotor.

9. Select the appropriate Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plate for this vehicle.

Important: Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub.

Never attempt to re-use a previously installed Correction Plate.

10. Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the vehicle between the hub and the rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and aligned with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.

11. Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor. Be sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 7.

12. The rotor should then be secured onto the hub and tightened to the proper specificating. The rotor should be dial indicated once more to assure that the rotor is now within specification.

The brake system is now ready for the remaining service and assembly. Once the caliper has been installed, check to ensure that the rotor rotates freely.

 

The TSB says it all. It is in place for people who complain about pedal pulsation and not for major brake issues. I change rotors several times a month during track season and just throw them on with no special run out checking.

Bill

 

When I first took my car in because of pedal pulsations, the rotors were turned and inspected for runout. 6000 miles or less later, the same issue occured. I believe the uneven pad deposits were the likely culprits, since it's hard to believe that runout would occur within such low mileage. In other words, shims may not be a long-term solution. Decent rotors are the best way to go, IMO.