Originally Posted by HollywoodFRC

I had a bad driver's wheel bearing and replaced it. I kind of figured it was bad because when I drove the car and got a Wha Wha sound only on right turns. If the bearing is indeed bad, it will probably be noisy on medium speed turns around curves. If you turn right and hear a noise, it's the left bearing. Turn left and you hear noise it's the right one. The bearing's under most stress opposite where you are turning. Also, get the car in the air and pull (rock back and forth) on the suspect wheel. Pull on all the wheels for comparison. If you have a lot of play, then the bearing's probably going. It's not a hard job, but you need the right tools. I got my bearing (Timkin) from Advance Auto, look at Rock Auto, Auto Zone, O'Reily for the best price. I think they are all Timkin. The bearing itself is attached to the steering knuckle by three Torx bolts. You'll have to remove the steering knuckle in order to get the bad bearing out. You'll see why, the ball joint nut/bolt blocks access to one of the Torx bolts. You'll need a ball joint kit rental from your local auto parts store. It contains the presses and pickle forks you'll need to get the steering knuckle out. Steps:

1) Get car on jackstands, remove front wheel, disconnect the speed sensor connector from the bearing and move aside
2) Using the proper metric allen wrench and metric wrenches/sockets, undo the tie rod end nut, upper and lower control arm ball joint nuts
3) Using the parts from the ball joint tool kit, seperate the tie rod and the upper and lower control arm ball joints from the steering knuckle. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! CAUTION: Use the press in the kit and not the pickle fork, or you may wind up tearing the ball joint rubber dust shields. Be careful, the contol arm ball joints are pressed into the control arms and are VERY expensive to replace. usually, you wind up having to buy a new control arm w/ball joint. PROTECT THOSE RUBBER DUST SHIELDS!
4) Remove the steering knuckle, inspect all your rubber dust shields for tears.
5) remove the three Torx bolts and remove the defective bearing
6) Clean up the steering knuckle, and install the new bearing using the three Torx bolts. Torque to spec.
7) Reinstall the steering knuckle/bearing assembly
8) Tighten the ball joint nuts to torque spec.
9) Attach tie rod end to steering knuckle and tighten nut to spec
10) Reconnect the speed sensor connector DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS
11) Remount the wheel, get it off the jackstands and road test
12) You don't need a realignment.

Good Luck! Figure about three hours time.

Originally Posted by GOFASTERNUT

513139 works for Autozone, but doesn't work for GMPartsDirect. Weird..... It's $162.99 at AZ. Thanks!!!

Originally Posted by GOFASTERNUT

Well, I spent $330 or so at Autozone and got 2 new bearings. I changed them both today in about 2.5 hours. It was way easy with this write up: http://www.jakelatham.com/c5/misc/ That made it sooo easy to follow along. Thanks Jake!! The hardest part was getting the lower ball joint loose. I took it out for a test drive and the loud "fan" sound that I had going since I bought the car was gone. It was actually almost quite inside and I could hear the engine as it revved.