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Nois eafter torque tube out ?

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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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Default Nois eafter torque tube out ?

I just had the torque tube bushings and bearings replaced in the Vette. Everything went perfect. I now noticed that when I start the car, and for the 1st min or 2 I can hear something like light scraping when I let out the clutch. Sounds like something may be riding on the flywheel. I have a Spec stgII. The noise goes away in the a minute or two. The car runs and drives perfect in every other way. When everything went back togather is there anything that may have been overlooked? Thanks guys.

-Justin
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by triblk6spd
I just had the torque tube bushings and bearings replaced in the Vette. Everything went perfect. I now noticed that when I start the car, and for the 1st min or 2 I can hear something like light scraping when I let out the clutch. Sounds like something may be riding on the flywheel. I have a Spec stgII. The noise goes away in the a minute or two. The car runs and drives perfect in every other way. When everything went back togather is there anything that may have been overlooked? Thanks guys.

-Justin
I have no idea what the noise could be..throw out bearing perhaps??

What made you replace the torque tube bushings and bearings and how much $$ did it run you?
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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The bearings and bushings were not cheap. Around $800. The install was $200. The throwout bearing and all clutch related parts were installed just under 3000mi ago with no complications. Something had to go togather not quite the same. Just looking for some input.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 01:28 AM
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Well I'm the ***. It was the tunnel shield under the torque tube. It was not bolted down tight enough and it was vibrating just a bit. Sorry for the false alarm.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by triblk6spd
Well I'm the ***. It was the tunnel shield under the torque tube. It was not bolted down tight enough and it was vibrating just a bit. Sorry for the false alarm.
Alls well that ends well....
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 01:47 PM
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Where did you get the bearings from?

I know where to get the bushings but from what I understood the bearings cannot be bought.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by runamuk
Where did you get the bearings from?

I know where to get the bushings but from what I understood the bearings cannot be bought.
When I looked them up, I see part numbers listed for the bearings, but I haven't checked to see if they are indeed available separately or not.
They are: Front bearing: 12456210
Rear bearings: 12456221 (two required)

Also, the tube o-rings are showing as:

Front: 12456203
Rear: 12456220 (two required)

These numbers are shown for the later '01/'02 thru '04 shaft with the 63mm driveshaft diameter vs the early (55mm) shaft.
HTH
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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Dealership got everything for me. A friend helped me out but it did not seem like anything out of the ordinary to get them in.
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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Well it was the torque tube cover plate that was loose. It was just vibrating at low rpm's. retorqued everything and it's perfect.
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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[QUOTE=runamuk]Where did you get the bearings from?

You can't buy individual parts from GM for the torque tube (at least I couldn't). You have to buy the whole driveshaft assembly.
I just rebult mine this spring
These are the bearing numbers on the original bearings I took out.
NSK 6007 DU need 1
NSK 6008 DU need 2
I used the following replacements:
SKF 6007 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 1 $25.64
SKF 6008 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 2 $29.33
I also replaced the couplers with:
2 FEBI BMW017526 26111227410 $45.45
They are the same couplers as in a '99 BMW 318ti
Mine is a Z06 or '01 and newer torque tube. The '97 thru '00 use the exact same bearings and slinger ring but a different coupler (10mm bolts instead of 12mm) It's also for a 318ti just an automatic.
I got my couplers from the BMW Parts Experts online. They had the best price. Make sure you get the FEBI or Lemforder brands.
You will also need to replace the slinger ring, GM part number 12456208 cost $4.42 from www.gmpartshouse.com.

Last edited by geerookie; Nov 23, 2007 at 10:28 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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[QUOTE=geerookie;1562879629]
Originally Posted by runamuk
Where did you get the bearings from?


You can't buy individual parts from GM for the torque tube (at least I couldn't). You have to buy the whole driveshaft assembly.
I just rebult mine this spring
These are the bearing numbers on the original bearings I took out.
NSK 6007 DU need 1
NSK 6008 DU need 2
I used the following replacements:
SKF 6007 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 1 $25.64
SKF 6008 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 2 $29.33
I also replaced the couplers with:
2 FEBI BMW017526 26111227410 $45.45
They are the same couplers as in a '99 BMW 318ti
Mine is a Z06 or '01 and newer torque tube. The '97 thru '00 use the exact same bearings and slinger ring but a different coupler (10mm bolts instead of 12mm) It's also for a 318ti just an automatic.
I got my couplers from the BMW Parts Experts online. They had the best price. Make sure you get the FEBI or Lemforder brands.
You will also need to replace the slinger ring, GM part number 12456208 cost $4.42 from www.gmpartshouse.com.


Outstanding info! Well done!!!! Thank you!!


Bill
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 10:23 AM
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for the info and great post

only GM would take a part for a 4 cylinder german car and slap it in a v8 set up.

GM Logic (oxymoron right there):

German designed to last for a sub 200hp car, so we'll put it on our 350hp v8 and so it'll have to be replaced or upgraded at every turn and we can steal a bunch of $$ from our customers.

O BTW we'll make it easy to access too, nothing like labor charges. Pohanka Chevy sits on the review board.
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