Does anyone have this for a C5 that they can post or Email me.

I know there is a LS1/LS6 manifold swap on LS1 how to, but I wanted to check to see if there is something specific to the FAST 90/90 with TQ specs and pictures

 

only difference is the torque sequence and replacing the valley bolts. If someone can post the tightening order and torque specs, you'll be golden.

 

If Vettenuts doesn't post to this thread tonight then PM him, I'm sure he has all the info you need.

 

Cool. I had already had the LS1 to LS6 conversion done. Now Ill go from the LS6 to the FAST and sell the LS6

 

I need this info as well. we start my motor tear down this sunday for my h/c install.

 

You need a BFH!

 

Ive got a cold soda waiting for you if you come over and help

 

YES!! Don forget to change out the valley cover bolts to flat head "button" bolts The installers at a well known shop didn't change the bolts on my engine and cracked the bottom of the FAST intake. As for the torquing vettenuts will come up with the answer.
Good luck

 

you need to install button head bolts on the valley cover and have a lot of patience. At first I didn't think mine would fit in the space available for it.

 

I bought the FAST 90/90 bolt kit from Thunder Racing

 

I think Damon McLeod installed his FAST 90/90 himself recently - having Ed Hutchings do the tune soon.

 

Couple of differences.

Make sure you verify the MAP sensor won't contact the firewall.

Make sure you bend down the front coolant line that runs between the heads, it can cause the manifold to not seat correctly.

Don't overtighten the throttle body, I think the prescribed value from FAST is too high. Mine was ported by Tony and he installs Keenserts (no nut required). I ended up tightening them to develop specific squeeze on the throttle body gasket and used blue loctite on the bolts to keep it in place. Can't remember the number I used, but it was based on a face seal for an o-ring. Bottom line, you will likely have a gap between the throttle body and the intake, the o-ring supplied by FAST is very stiff, attempting to crush it flat may damage the intake so be careful.

I install all the bolts on the intake and then push down on the center of the FAST while tightening them by hand in sequence. Then being the major **** person I am, I tighten each to 5 in-lb twice, then 10 in-lb twice (I have a very small torque wrench for this). This ensures that everything is coming down even as the FAST is not as stiff as the LS1/6 intake and you can twist it during installation. Once I get to this point, I mark each bolt and bring them down 1/2 turn at a time monitoring the torque value until I get to 89 lb-in on each.

I also get silicone grease (spark plug boot grease) and put it on the gaskets and the heads so the gaskets will seal better and slide better as they actually need to slide on the head during tightening.

I didn't use the FAST supplied bolts/washers on the intake I re-used my stock bolts.

You MUST used the button heads on the valley cover. They will rust quickly, so I painted mine silver in hopes they would look decent longer.

Before installing, trial fit to ensure you can attach the A/C vacuum line and MAP.

Be careful with the brake booster hose. When I removed my LS6 intake, I marked the brake booster hose so I knew where the top was on the intake. This will minimize load on the FAST vacuum port, which is very weak. I install the FAST so it is resting about 3-4 inches forward of its final installed position then install the A/C vacuum line, MAP and the brake booster hose. Then as you move the intake to its final position, monitor the brake booster hose so you don't pull on the FAST vacuum port. It will break if you aren't careful with this.

I also use the silicone grease on all the vacuum hoses so that they go on and off easily, the vacuum ports are much weaker than the LS6 intake so tugging and twisting on them is not a good idea.

Use a new seal for the MAP fitting.

I posted some time back about running the vacuum from the rear of the intake to the passenger side for the MAP, I knew mine would hit the firewall and did this as a preventative measure. I had a lot of photo's as well. Although the LPE kit that moves it to the front appears to be a better solution.

 

Call me Phil if you need any pointers. 757-424-1740. Dont mind helping you out.

 

It's done and Ed has put a tune on already. Phil if I can get mine on I know you can get yours on. It's not that hard to do. As long as you have the MAP relocater you're good to go. When are you going to do the install?

 

 

Since I didnt get throttle body bolts with the Manifold, Ill have to get to home depot or and autoparts store and get the. When I looked and measured last night, it looks like I need 2"inch bolts to fix washers on both ends and a nut.

So, If I get them tomorrow, I may start on Friday night. If not, Ill see what the wife has planned and do it saturday

 

One note of caution. Be very careful tightening the T-body bolts. DO NOT tighten them all the way.
Use blue locktite, and only tighten the bolts til the plastic ears of the manifold just start to move. When you're done, there should be a gap between the T-body and the manifold. It should be about 1/8 in, and uniform all the way around. You will be able to see the o-ring all the way around.
Like I said, any questions, dont be afraid to call.

 

Your a good man Ed

 

I got home from work late and stopped by AutoZone and they had lock tight normal and blue in a gel. Which will work better?

The store only had the blue in a gel

 

Either one. The gel is a little cleaner to use.

Give me a call if you get stuck. One important piece of advice. There is a very small hose on the back of the manifold that is a bitch to put back on. The solution is to get the right size tubing connector and about 6 inches of the small tubing and extend it.

You'll thank me later.