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I was just driving down the street the other day and my check engine light comes on. At the stop sign i check to see what it was and wrote it down. When I got home I looked them up.
P0175 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 2
&
P0172 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1
Both had an H C after them.
I had just recently installed a vararam intake. Could this be throwing the code? Other threads with this say to check for a vaccum leak. I have had my vararam for 2 days now and thrown no codes until tonight.
check for an air leak...
where the vararam connects to the air bridge, where the coupler connects to both the bridge and the throttlebody, where the Vararam lid connects to the base....
had the same problem. some say get a tune or dyno, others say check for air leaks and some may say too much oil on your air filter and its effecting the maf. I had to clean the maf with maf cleaner which temporily fixed the problem until air filter oil got on it again. i tried putting very little oil on the filter and that didnt work. in my case and the type of driving i do, i put the stock intake back on and it cured all the problems. havent had one code trip on me. guess you need to ask yourself "can you really tell a difference" between intakes for the type of driving you do. i'm content w / the hp my zo6 has and decided "dont fix it if its not broken" re: engine mods. but that's just me.
Well if you took the vararam off and put the stock back on. And the codes never came back again. That would eliminate the problem and say it is the vararam. If all I need is a dyno tune I don't care... Running rich isn't that much of a problem anyways.
had the same problem. some say get a tune or dyno, others say check for air leaks and some may say too much oil on your air filter and its effecting the maf. I had to clean the maf with maf cleaner which temporily fixed the problem until air filter oil got on it again. i tried putting very little oil on the filter and that didnt work. in my case and the type of driving i do, i put the stock intake back on and it cured all the problems. havent had one code trip on me. guess you need to ask yourself "can you really tell a difference" between intakes for the type of driving you do. i'm content w / the hp my zo6 has and decided "dont fix it if its not broken" re: engine mods. but that's just me.
Been running a Vararam for over 3 years with no oil issues. It is easy to over-oil. I have found less is better in this case. The Spray can (even WD40) is easier to control the application. I find with the squeeze bottle there is pooling and sometime too much gets on the edge of the gasket. I also went to the K&N filter and epoxied it into the housing. Have the first generation B2 version.
I installed one in my buddies car 3 weeks ago and he has had no issues (codes or oil) so I wouldn't give up on the unit as quickly as you did. Clean the filter, re-oil conservatively and give the unit another try.
did you do an idle/PCM relearn after the installation?
When I installed my VaraRam, I overtightened the stainless band clamp on the air coupler where it connects to the air bridge. That caused the under side of the airbridge to buckle and cause a small "v-shaped" opening thru which air by-passed the MAF. Not only did it throw codes, but it whistled...
mine whistles when I rev it up. I just thought this was normal. I've reset the code and it hasn't come back yet. It seems like I may just need to re-oil the filter?
I agree with the Air leak problem. In my setup i have a smooth air coupler and if the screw wrap isn't tight enough, the coupler will slip off. If you're running the stock bellows you don't need to worry about this.
I was just driving down the street the other day and my check engine light comes on. At the stop sign i check to see what it was and wrote it down. When I got home I looked them up.
P0175 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 2
&
P0172 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1
Both had an H C after them.
I had just recently installed a vararam intake. Could this be throwing the code? Other threads with this say to check for a vaccum leak. I have had my vararam for 2 days now and thrown no codes until tonight.
Any suggestions?
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Steve
I recently installed a Vararam and was getting these codes. I had not oiled my filter because my instructions did not mention it. I oiled the filter with WD-40 like Vararam's website recommended, double checked all connections and then took the car out for an hour drive to adjust to the new airflow. Everything was great. About a week later, the car threw one of the codes again. I cleared it right away and haven't seen a code since then (probably 3 weeks now).
I cleared it 3 days ago and still hasn't come back. I don't think the filter was ever lubricated though. Why do you have to do this and what exactly does it do?
I cleared it 3 days ago and still hasn't come back. I don't think the filter was ever lubricated though. Why do you have to do this and what exactly does it do?
I'm thinking mine could use clearing. I'm also curious about this. also are you supposed to use the straw on the WD-40 can or just spray?
I'm thinking mine could use clearing. I'm also curious about this. also are you supposed to use the straw on the WD-40 can or just spray?
After the filter has air dried (after cleaning) I use just use the spray nozzle and go across (move top to bottom) with a very fine coat, then up and down (to get in the pleats) while moving left to right, again with a very thin mist about 6-8 inches from the filter. Doing this once, let it sit a bit to allow the oil to soak in. Look throgh the filter and you should be able to tell the areas that are covered (a bit darker, or red if you are using the K&N oil). If any area's appear light, just touch up those area's with a very light spray.
As my K&N is epoxied onto the housing, I take a paper towel and gently wipe (more of a pat) the inside portion (facing the MAF) to soak up any excess.
Should work without any problems. While I have the MAF/Vararam apart, I give the MAF a very light spray of CRC electrical cleaner, just to be on the safe side.
The last thing I do is wipe out the TB opening (lift the TP a bit and check to see if oily, dirty or both) with a clean cotton cloth.