I replaced the starter and connected all the wires (power, ground and signal wires) correctlyand even had a buddy that works on vettes come over and check the wires for me. He said everthing was connected properly/correctly so we bolt up the headers, put on the plugs, etc. We go to fire up the car and it fires up perfectly, volts were at 11.6-11.7 for a few seconds and then dropped to 11.5 and stayed there. I drove the car around and a little ways down the road, the voltage started to drop and dropped all the way down into the 8s. I get the car back home in the garage, disconnected the battery and checked to make sure the power wire was tight. I tightned the power wire b/c it was kinda loose and then I go to start the car again to see if the voltage goes up to 13.1 and it doesn't register any voltage at all and says charge system fault. I hit the the unlock button on my keyless entry keypad and all of a sudden I get this humming noise coming from the fuse/relay box. Then the door locks started locking and unlocking themselves and my keyless entry keypad doesn't work. What is going on. I don't understand what is happening?
it's throwing codes P1637 and P1638

do you think I could have shorted my electrical system or fried my PCM?

 

Did you check the voltage at the battery to make sure it is putting out a full 12+volts? IF you have an internal short or a dead cell, it could make lots of things not work.

 

alternator output?

 

sounds like you need a new battery. have the old one tested.

 

The fact that the car started and ran indicates that the PCM is fine. The problem your having is insufficient power from your battery. For what ever reason, your not charging the battery or the battery is TOAST!

The alternator is actually connected to the battery (through the starter solenoid) via the fat red 12 VDC wire (field terminal) on the very back of the alternator. The red wire should have the same voltage as the battery terminals all the time. When the car starts and engine is running, you should see 13-15 VDC on the battery terminals & alternator field terminal due to the alternator output.

So,,,,running the car below 11 VDC is bad and will cause some very strange stuff to occur. You should be fine once you correct the low voltage issue.

Have the battery charged and tested.

Once you have a good battery in there, start and measure the voltage at the battery terminals & on the alternator field terminal.

BC

 

You just got the best advice that you can get from a Forum member.

 

 

The old battery was COMPLETELY DEAD so I replaced the old battery with another battery I had laying around and tightend the power wire on the starter and now the p1637 code has gone, but the p1638 code remains, there was no charge system fault error code either, it's currently displaying about 11 volts with the car off. I hadn't started it yet, because it's going to need a jump start and I was afraid of draining another battery.
how do I get rid of the 1638 code? also this code is keeping my check engine light on. And is the 1638 code still on because the battery voltage might be too low?

 

Possibly an alternator problem?????

DTC P1637 Generator L-Terminal Circuit
DTC P1638 Generator F-Terminal Circuit

 

if your second battery is in good shape, charge it up before you hook it up. 11 volts is not enough. i'll bet your second battery is undercharged as well or defective. i think you still have a battery problem.

 

Ok Here's what happened. Yesterday, I tightened my power wire on the starter. I didn't know that when I had tightnened it, the power wire turn upwards and was touching the screw that the signal wire was on. So when I went to start the car, I blew a fuse which is why that humming noise was coming from the relay box and the doors were locking and unlocking themselves. I changed the fuse and everything is fine now, except for the p1638 code. I was reading on the net that this code usually means the alternator is trashed. do you think that i might have blown out my alternator whenever that power wire touched the screw the signal wire was on?

Update:
I just had the alternator tested and it was good. the battery however was only 7 volts, so it's at autozone recharging.