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Help,my vette died today

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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 08:06 PM
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Default Help,my vette died today

I stopped at walmart for a couple of things. When i went to start my car, it would not start. I had a little trouble putting the key into the ignition but i was able to get it in after I had put the key in and out a couple of times. There is full power to everything. It will not crank over at all!!!!
I tried to jump the battery but still nothing. What do ya'll think it may be.

HELP!!!!!!!!!
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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Starter? Do the old tap the starter with a hammer of course it's next to impossible with our cars.


Dave
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 08:35 PM
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it sound like the chip fell out of your key or the contacts fell/broke off your ignition cylinder. thats why it was hard to put your key in. your car thought it was being stolen since the pcm didn't see the signal from the ignition switch saying its ok to start. thats why it didn't.

recomend a new ignition cylinder and housing

Last edited by HPS MASTER TECH; Sep 22, 2007 at 08:38 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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Check the chip in the key. Is it still there? It may have fallen off. If it is, check to see if it's damaged. Do you have another key? Try that.
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ArKay99
Check the chip in the key. Is it still there? It may have fallen off. If it is, check to see if it's damaged. Do you have another key? Try that.
The key is still intact. I tried my second key and it too did not work. Thanks.
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HPS MASTER TECH
it sound like the chip fell out of your key or the contacts fell/broke off your ignition cylinder. thats why it was hard to put your key in. your car thought it was being stolen since the pcm didn't see the signal from the ignition switch saying its ok to start. thats why it didn't.

recomend a new ignition cylinder and housing

This sounds logical. I will check it out. Can you bypass this problem?
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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do a google for "bypassing VATS" where there is a will, there's a way.

I also think like the others that your lock cylinder or whatever part in it that reads the key code is bad. It may be just as easy to fix the problem as to bypass the VATS.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 08:18 PM
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Craig

There are two interlocks that you need to check. The clutch safety switch and the Theft Deterrrent Relay (TDR). The clutch switch is on the fire wall where the clutch pedel touches the floor. The TDR is in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the firewall. Its the realy that is on the LEFT:



If you press and relaese the clutch all the way to the floor, when the clutch is released and pressed, the realy should click! Thats what supplies the voltage for the starter solenoid.

BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Sep 23, 2007 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Craig

There are two interlocks that you need to check. The clutch safety switch and the Theft Deterrrent Relay (TDR). The clutch switch is on the fire wall where the clutch pedel touches the floor. The TDR is in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the firewall. Its the realy that is on the LEFT:



If you press and relaese the clutch all the way to the floor, when the clutch is released and pressed, the realy should click! Thats what supplies the voltage for the starter solenoid.

BC


I had the same problem and it was intermitting. It ended up being the starter. Doing the tests above will let you know if your VATS system is working correctly along with the two relays mentioned above. Then you can check the power getting to the starter using a multimeter directly at the starter connections.
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 12:44 AM
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Bill, I have and A4 so there is no clutch. I did undo the positive post on the battery thinking that it may reset after I hook it back up but the problem persists. I don't have time to mess with it myself right now because of work. I have an extended warrantee so I will let the dealer look at it and let them charge a s h i t load of money to the warrantee company.





Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Craig

There are two interlocks that you need to check. The clutch safety switch and the Theft Deterrrent Relay (TDR). The clutch switch is on the fire wall where the clutch pedel touches the floor. The TDR is in the passengers foot well above the BCM on the firewall. Its the realy that is on the LEFT:



If you press and relaese the clutch all the way to the floor, when the clutch is released and pressed, the realy should click! Thats what supplies the voltage for the starter solenoid.

BC
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 07:29 PM
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I'm glad this topic has been brought up again, because I was about to start a new thread on it!

I'm still having my occasional "no start" issue that I've noticed since I bought my '02 Z06 back in March. There was another thread on here in which many members gave some good advice... but nothing was ever definitive. I've left my car for many many days (on different occasions) with my local dealer, and they've never been able to fix it. They've replaced a wiring harness for something to do with the door locks, then another time they replaced the starter relay. I'm still having the problem though.... it'll go several days just fine, then not start several times in a row. I can find no pattern (ambient temp, letting car sit/vs already warmed up, which key I use, etc). The clutch relay clicks just fine, and it sounds like the same relay that clicks when I turn the key with clutch in, or turn key to start then press in clutch (same relay).

I'm sooo fed up with it! It's the only problem my car has, and the guys at the dealership can't figure it out at all. They keep saying that it has to not start for them in order to figure it out. Basically to sum up my issue: It's like trying to start the car without the clutch pressed all the way in. Lights go off inside, it's ready to start, but it's as if the clutch isnt all the way in. I press clutch in and out and can hear relay clicking as it should, but nothing happens. I can hold the key in place and eventually it'll start. I can keep fiddling with it and eventually it'll start. Sometimes it takes a few seconds, sometimes a couple of MINUTES. It's embarrasing and would suck if I ever needed to make a quick getaway!

This isn't an isolated problem, for I've read other posts on this forum with people having very similar issues. I'm prepared to replace the key ignition switch parts along with the clutch and theft deterrant relays and give that a try. Somehow something is preventing power from getting to the starter relay. It's nothing that throws codes or causes anything to come up on the DIC. Something isn't making contact somewhere. It was also suggested to check all the chassis ground points as well, but I've yet to find the one(s) for the BCM.

Any thoughts?! Thanks!
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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 12:02 AM
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I have the same problem but does any one have the "security" light on the cluster light up shortly after you start the car.
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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 99vet
I have the same problem but does any one have the "security" light on the cluster light up shortly after you start the car.

That my man is a bad GROUND! Been there had that!!! Check G-101 &102 and 104.

SEE POST:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=896875
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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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I need to do something with my clutch relay switch.
Ever since I had my cluth and master cylinder replaced, when it gets summer hot, I get a click. I have to turn the key to start, and push the clutch pedal in andout untill it catches.

Something must have gotten banged up with the safety switch
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:44 AM
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Thanks.....I'll have to check that out. Did you have problem starting the vet with this ground problem?
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 05:50 AM
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Yes, but if your a A4, our problems are differant
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by tvlance
I'm glad this topic has been brought up again, because I was about to start a new thread on it!

I'm still having my occasional "no start" issue that I've noticed since I bought my '02 Z06 back in March. There was another thread on here in which many members gave some good advice... but nothing was ever definitive. I've left my car for many many days (on different occasions) with my local dealer, and they've never been able to fix it. They've replaced a wiring harness for something to do with the door locks, then another time they replaced the starter relay. I'm still having the problem though.... it'll go several days just fine, then not start several times in a row. I can find no pattern (ambient temp, letting car sit/vs already warmed up, which key I use, etc). The clutch relay clicks just fine, and it sounds like the same relay that clicks when I turn the key with clutch in, or turn key to start then press in clutch (same relay).

I'm sooo fed up with it! It's the only problem my car has, and the guys at the dealership can't figure it out at all. They keep saying that it has to not start for them in order to figure it out. Basically to sum up my issue: It's like trying to start the car without the clutch pressed all the way in. Lights go off inside, it's ready to start, but it's as if the clutch isnt all the way in. I press clutch in and out and can hear relay clicking as it should, but nothing happens. I can hold the key in place and eventually it'll start. I can keep fiddling with it and eventually it'll start. Sometimes it takes a few seconds, sometimes a couple of MINUTES. It's embarrasing and would suck if I ever needed to make a quick getaway!

This isn't an isolated problem, for I've read other posts on this forum with people having very similar issues. I'm prepared to replace the key ignition switch parts along with the clutch and theft deterrant relays and give that a try. Somehow something is preventing power from getting to the starter relay. It's nothing that throws codes or causes anything to come up on the DIC. Something isn't making contact somewhere. It was also suggested to check all the chassis ground points as well, but I've yet to find the one(s) for the BCM.

Any thoughts?! Thanks!
I had a very similar problem, it turned out to be my battery terminals weren't tight enough. I ended up switching to top post style battery terminals and I replaced the ground wire from the battery to the chassis. No problems since. Good luck!

Jeff
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Thanks for everything and all the suggestions. I took her in to the stealership and it ended up being the ignition. They replaced it and reprogrammed it and charge $350. They had my car for about 5 days. Never again will I use that stealership. They told me that they would get to it in a day or so and it took over 4 days for them to get to it. Thanks again and I am also gald that some other issues were dealt with on this post. It's good to see that we all can help each other.
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