Sway bars installation advice?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
Sway bars installation advice?
The Z06 sway bars arrived today. I should be installing them shortly.
I have a few questions. I will be installing them using a drive on platform lift. This means the vette will be supported by the tires and wheels. The installation guide from LS1howto shows the installation using jack stands. Will there be a problem installing the sway bars with the weight of the car resting on the tires and wheels?
Next, the instruction from LS1howto assumes you will replace the end links (plastic for metal). So they disconnect the end links from the suspension and remove them with the sway bars. I already have metal end links so I won't be changing them out. Would it be easier to leave the end links on the suspension and remove only the sway bar? But would it be more difficult to reach the connecting bolts if you do it this way?
This looks like an easy job on paper. By comparison to other mods it is. But I like to plan mods out in advance and reduce the level of frustration.
Thanks in advance.
I have a few questions. I will be installing them using a drive on platform lift. This means the vette will be supported by the tires and wheels. The installation guide from LS1howto shows the installation using jack stands. Will there be a problem installing the sway bars with the weight of the car resting on the tires and wheels?
Next, the instruction from LS1howto assumes you will replace the end links (plastic for metal). So they disconnect the end links from the suspension and remove them with the sway bars. I already have metal end links so I won't be changing them out. Would it be easier to leave the end links on the suspension and remove only the sway bar? But would it be more difficult to reach the connecting bolts if you do it this way?
This looks like an easy job on paper. By comparison to other mods it is. But I like to plan mods out in advance and reduce the level of frustration.
Thanks in advance.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
You'll be fine just leaving your lower end link bolts in place and only removing the top ones. On the rear clamps, the upper bolt goes directly into the aluminum cradle so be careful to not strip any threads. It's not normally a problem, but just keep an eye on things there. When replacing fasteners, I recommend that anti-seize be used after first checking that the threads are clean. Wire brush them if necessary. Also, try your best to follow the torque specs. On the end link bolt threads, a drop of Loc-Tite blue (or red) is a good idea too.
BTW, instead of white lithium grease, see if you can pick up a tube of synthetic caliper grease at your local auto parts store. I like the "Stay-Lube" brand in the black tube. Very inexpensive and has good water washout resistance. Not to mention you can use it on your brake caliper guide pin bolts, etc too.
HTH
BTW, instead of white lithium grease, see if you can pick up a tube of synthetic caliper grease at your local auto parts store. I like the "Stay-Lube" brand in the black tube. Very inexpensive and has good water washout resistance. Not to mention you can use it on your brake caliper guide pin bolts, etc too.
HTH
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 8
From: Centre, AL
1) Cut grooves in the bushings...just small ones, and not right through. Small nothes to keep grease in. Helps with squeaks down the road.
2) Lift the wheels of the side you are going to do, or you won't be able to tighten properly.
3)Get the Torx bit before you start...get two for when the one breaks.
2) Lift the wheels of the side you are going to do, or you won't be able to tighten properly.
3)Get the Torx bit before you start...get two for when the one breaks.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Hauser ID
I did not have any trouble reaching things with it just jacked up a foot or so. The only thing I can recommend is to have the weight on wheels when doing the rear two main bolts since they go through the entire suspension.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
Race Director
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: www.ncminsurance.com Bowling Green KY Home of the Corvette!
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I have done numerous sway bar installs on a drive on lift...Never had to worry about the wheels hanging....
It is extremly simple to do. It will take you more time to prepare your tools, get the car on the lift than it will be to change the bars out. It is a piece of cake.
Adam
It is extremly simple to do. It will take you more time to prepare your tools, get the car on the lift than it will be to change the bars out. It is a piece of cake.
Adam
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I agree with GeorgeB here on his assessment too. Leave the vehicle weight on the wheels.
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 8
From: Centre, AL
Had slight problem with the rear ones. Did not have a lot of space, so it was tough to torque. Taking the wheels off makes it a bit easier. Broke two torx bits there as well. Maybe just my stupidity. Front ones were easier though....start with them, just to get a feel for how it works if you want.
Race Director
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From: www.ncminsurance.com Bowling Green KY Home of the Corvette!
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I used 2 wrenches...Do not remember the sizes, but they have the 2 flat spots on the sleeve much like the brakes that you can get an open end wrench on. This acts like the torx bit...I then use a wrachet type gear wrench on the nut and loosen it up...I do not use a torx at all...
Here is a photo of the flat spots I am talking about..
Here is a photo of the flat spots I am talking about..
Last edited by Adam Boca; Sep 25, 2007 at 04:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
Thanks guys, this really helps.
The instruction say to use a Trox bit. But I'm getting the impression that is for plastic end fittings. The instructions also mention a 6mm hex bit. Is this like an allen wrench end?
The instruction say to use a Trox bit. But I'm getting the impression that is for plastic end fittings. The instructions also mention a 6mm hex bit. Is this like an allen wrench end?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake VA
I just replaced mine on a 2000. The end links on mine required a #40 TORX bit to remove. The front links were metal, the rear plastic. I replaced both with ZO6 end links which also required the #40 TORX to tighten. I did it with the car on jackstands and wheels hanging, no problems. The rear brackets fit over the lower A arm bolts, so no need to remove them and hanging weight of the wheels does not effect it. Easy job.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 5
From: Toronto Ontario
St. Jude Donor '08
Just did mine last nite..its a little tight but once you get started its pretty easy..you'll absolutely love the upgrade..( went from a base suspension... added Z06 sway bars & Bilstein sports and lowered on stock bolts..)
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
Hi all again,
The instuctions from LS1howto say I can't get a torque wrench on the end link nuts. They say I should tighten them the best I can, ie best guess gauge. Now my question is, can you over tighten the end links. I am afraid I will bind the sway bars.
The instuctions from LS1howto say I can't get a torque wrench on the end link nuts. They say I should tighten them the best I can, ie best guess gauge. Now my question is, can you over tighten the end links. I am afraid I will bind the sway bars.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
I used 2 wrenches...Do not remember the sizes, but they have the 2 flat spots on the sleeve much like the brakes that you can get an open end wrench on. This acts like the torx bit...I then use a wrachet type gear wrench on the nut and loosen it up...I do not use a torx at all...
Here is a photo of the flat spots I am talking about..
Here is a photo of the flat spots I am talking about..
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
No worries. You're tightening the stud and nut, not the ball and socket of the end link.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,220
Likes: 17
From: San Diego California
Their in! Vette feels like "it's on rails"
It took me about 2 hours. I took my time with the front and did some experimenting. Had to go back to the tool room to get the right tools.
Like I said the car is feeling very flat on the way home. But I haven't had a chance to push it yet. I did notice a new rattle above the passenger side visor. Is this typical. The car vette does seem to be twisting more when it rolls over bumps and uneven pavement. I think I can feel it straining with the stiffer sway bars.
PS, GHL Motorsports exhaust arrived today!! It may be back to the shop tomorrow.
It took me about 2 hours. I took my time with the front and did some experimenting. Had to go back to the tool room to get the right tools.
Like I said the car is feeling very flat on the way home. But I haven't had a chance to push it yet. I did notice a new rattle above the passenger side visor. Is this typical. The car vette does seem to be twisting more when it rolls over bumps and uneven pavement. I think I can feel it straining with the stiffer sway bars.
PS, GHL Motorsports exhaust arrived today!!
It may be back to the shop tomorrow.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Their in! Vette feels like "it's on rails"
It took me about 2 hours. I took my time with the front and did some experimenting. Had to go back to the tool room to get the right tools.
Like I said the car is feeling very flat on the way home. But I haven't had a chance to push it yet. I did notice a new rattle above the passenger side visor. Is this typical. The car vette does seem to be twisting more when it rolls over bumps and uneven pavement. I think I can feel it straining with the stiffer sway bars.
PS, GHL Motorsports exhaust arrived today!! It may be back to the shop tomorrow.
It took me about 2 hours. I took my time with the front and did some experimenting. Had to go back to the tool room to get the right tools.
Like I said the car is feeling very flat on the way home. But I haven't had a chance to push it yet. I did notice a new rattle above the passenger side visor. Is this typical. The car vette does seem to be twisting more when it rolls over bumps and uneven pavement. I think I can feel it straining with the stiffer sway bars.
PS, GHL Motorsports exhaust arrived today!!
It may be back to the shop tomorrow. 
Cool! Now, see? Wasn't near as bad a job as you first thought, right? 