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Well lately I've been hearing a grinding noise when I rolled up my drivers side window. They roll down, but now they won't roll back up. I'd rather remove the door panel and check it out myself, than paying someone a lot of money just for them to tell me that I need a new motor. If anyone can provide any information on how to remove my door panel, that would be awesome!!! Thanks in advance!
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by C5Joe559
Well lately I've been hearing a grinding noise when I rolled up my drivers side window. They roll down, but now they won't roll back up. I'd rather remove the door panel and check it out myself, than paying someone a lot of money just for them to tell me that I need a new motor. If anyone can provide any information on how to remove my door panel, that would be awesome!!! Thanks in advance!
-Joe
Check Vette Essentials' website. Very good photos for you!
The first link isn't working for me, but thanks for the links! I keep hearing the same grinding noise, and being that I worked late yesterday, I'm going to make time to check on it today. I really hope it's just the motor and not the whole pulley system assembly, but we'll see. Thanks again to everyone!!!
EDIT: I just found out that my friend has a window regulator off of his 01 Z06 Corvette. I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't a difference between a 01 Z06 Regulator and a basic 00 Corvette regulator. Thanks again
I had the same grinding noise and window sticking. It turned out to that the lift cables were freyed. When the cable passed into the cable shieth, it would bind. That would cause the window to not go up. The motor was fine. I just got a new lift mechanisim and replaced the whole assembly. No more problems. Most important, Mark the window position with masking tape BEFORE removing it from the lift assembly. It makes getting the window back in the correct alignment a lot easier!
Roll the window down, it makes it a tad easier.
Remove the screws behind the door pull.
Removed the door lock/opener surround with a small flat head screw driver by pushing it in the tiny slots, easy.
Remove the Reflector.
Pull on the hole where the reflector was.
The hardest part of the job is getting the door panel off without breaking the nylon fasteners. After you remove the door handle screws, start at the rear of the door about 2 inches above the joint between the sections and work on that fastener first. Then work your way toward the front of the door. I found that a heavy duty putty knife was about the only tool thin enough to get between the door panel and the fastener base in the door. It also helps to put tape on the door before sliding the knife in to help prevent marring the door.
The window should be in the full up position before removing the glass. Then you can get to the clamp bolts through the access holes along the top of the door at each end.
When you get the new regulator assembly, be sure to adjust the stops on the mechanism so they match the old regulator. The jack screws control the position the glass stops at in the up position.
Thanks a lot everyone. Now I have another small problem. The parts won't be here for a week, but it's rain season. Is there any way to get the window up for the time being?
Thanks a lot everyone. Now I have another small problem. The parts won't be here for a week, but it's rain season. Is there any way to get the window up for the time being?
Go ahead and take the door panel off. Cut the drive cables, and wire tie or clamp the window in the up position.