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Ls6 motor swap, stage 3 ls6 heads, titanium retainers, valves, etc., double valve springs, chromoly push rods, texas speed camshaft(233/239 .593/.603), double roller timing chain,fast 90mm intake manifold, ported and a brand new ls2 throttle body ported,vararam intake and larger air bridge. kooks 1 7/8 headers, custom exhaust, basani x pipe. ghl bullet exhaust, spec three clutch and a fidanza flywheel

 

Very nice build!
Stock block?
Love the combination.

Chris

 

yeah stock block. I plan on getting it dyno tuned soon, its been ls1 edit tuned and dynoed 460 to the wheels.

 

i get 0 and when i start it up it goes up a lil and then dies. I know there's oil in there. and i get a low oil level light to. but i know there's oil damnit

 

Very nice, let me know what you get from the tune!
Not running anything like that, just headers and a cat back with a shot of giggle gas, well not running the gas yet, just showed up today.
but this weekend, its gonna be on it!
How are you liking that cam??

Chris

 

this is a new one to me, and have not read about it-- a little pressure at first and then to zero.
Please-- dont run her again, have heard the horror stories!
It does not sound like a sensor though, maybe the stars aligned and knocked your pump or seal out at the same time??

Ill look into previous threads for ya and report.

Chris

 

It's not too bad. it lurches though. It want's to go, but I don't really run her too hard. Maybe she's mad at me for that.lol thats why she wont start for me. sounds really good, I've gotten so many compliments on the sound. you say you coem to KY alot?

 

Had you checked the thread holes in the head and also checked/cleaned the bolt threads before re-assembly?
I kinda get the impression that you're saying that because of this bad experience that a torque wrench isn't to be trusted. I hope that's not the case.
I too use the "hand tight" technique on many fasteners, especially if they are of a more non-critical nature or they just can't be accessed to get a torque wrench on. The areas where I tend to focus on torque wrench use are generally steering/suspension/lug nuts (safety) related OR in an area where too much/little torque can result in a big $$ and/or major inconvenience i.e. cylinder heads, crankshaft main caps, bolts that screw into (soft) aluminum and the like. Some guys want to use a torque wrench on EVERYTHING, in large part because of : "well GM has a torque spec and if it wasn't important, GM wouldn't publish it". That's just unrealistic in the real world and being able to use common sense, combined with experience, helps keep someone from falling into that trap.
The first time I removed my intake manifold, I couldn't help but notice how long these bolts are in relation to their small diameter. The longer a bolt is that is of a small diameter (especially assuming it's a probably a Grade 3 or maybe 5 steel), means it's much more likely to twist and either break or strip threads if you're not careful. Also, a plastic manifold can be very unforgiving to too much torque and there's always a risk of hearing that dreaded "snap", which is usually NOT a good sign or, worse yet, that sickening feeling you get when all of a sudden the force you're applying becomes TOO easy (translation: usually a stripped bolt hole). BTDT I've kinda had to re-adjust the way I deal with fasteners in these (mostly) aluminum LS engines after having dealt with cast iron (Chevy and Pontiac) engines in the past. Mainly the MUCH lower torque values overall plus I now tend to pay much more attention to the use of anti-seize and clean threads, etc.
Doesn't make me an expert but I, like most people, have screwed something up in the past and have learned from it and try to help out others where I can and I'm always willing to learn something from others too. Especially here on the forum where the collective wisdom of so many people here are a HUGE asset to me and others.
Sorry for the long post.

 

If you have run it and there is no knocking then it aint oil pressure, its a sending problem.
yep, make it to KY often, used to live in Ohio.

Chris

 

Before ya yank of the intake try taking a flashlight & a mechanics mirror to look back there. If you had enough room to get your hand in there ya should be able to what's back there with a mirror. I would do that first before I started tearing things apart. Look at a manual to see what sensors and sending units are around all the areas that you had your hands. Also look to what vacum hoses & fittings are shown in the manual & check them before ya tear you intake off to look. Ya just find the problem & be able to fix it the easy way. Don't forget to look at it from underneath the car for a different view angle. Sometimes ya can things on the back of the motor better from below. Just a few suggestions that might save ya some heartache. Hope this helps out.

 

It does not take that long and is much easier than an intake R and R.

 

let me know when your down next, if you bring the vette we can drive around or something.

I actually just picked up a mirror ealier today. haven't got a chance to check yet, I will prob do that first, and if i cant see anything or solve the prob ill rip that manifold right off,lol. I hope I see the prob and can jsut plug it back in but life never seems to be that easy these days!!
Thanks for all the help everyone, I will post the results

 

post the results for shure, never know what other brother will have this problem next!!!

I'll be down there in a few weeks with the vette, KY, PM me, we will cruise!
2 black vettes, only thing better is 3!

Chris

 

That's always a good idea. The biggest problem I have is big hands which I have chewed up many times trying to squeeze into that tight (for me) area behind the manifold.
I'm suspecting a loose/leaking brake booster vacuum hose or MAP sensor grommet as a good reason for the engine dying.

 

I just took a look, I think I need a bigger mirror. I see the oil pressure sender, its connected at the top. at the base I see something next to it, I think It's hard to see if it was connected or not(I think it's the camshaft position sensor). I think it is cause even with my slim hands i doubt i got that far down. you say MAP grommet could be causing the problem, I can see the MAP perfect. and where's the brake hose. I see a hose at the back of the manifold, its connected. I see a connected plug(i think its the connector c112). and I can pull it up. Its got a blue end and in the middle of it theres like a metal clip, looks like its supposed to be clipped on to something. other than that i dont know whats wrong,

 

Can you tell if the MAP sensor electrical connector is plugged in all the way?

 

The MAP sensor is held into the manifold by a rubber grommet, can you tell if it seems to be positioned correctly?

 

yeah i pushed it in all the way.. hum i was thinking could this be the oil pump?
well unless the pump is bad, bc its ls6 ported oil pump. i dont think its that though. I guess I'll have to remove the intake tonight and have a closer look.

 

do you think a bad map sensor would cause the dying? I remember when i got the code first and i was at idle, i reset it and the car died.