0 Oil Pressure!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Elizabethtown
i just looked again for any loose wires, without removing the manifold. i used a mirror and kind see anything not plugged in. I started it again, held the gas a little and the pressure for up to 45-50 psi. there's no knocking or anything. sounds fine just when i let go of the gas the rpms will just drop down and stop, it doesn't seem like it wants to idle. I'm lost. If i remove the manifold and find nothings loose, what could it be?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
i just looked again for any loose wires, without removing the manifold. i used a mirror and kind see anything not plugged in. I started it again, held the gas a little and the pressure for up to 45-50 psi. there's no knocking or anything. sounds fine just when i let go of the gas the rpms will just drop down and stop, it doesn't seem like it wants to idle. I'm lost. If i remove the manifold and find nothings loose, what could it be?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
it's not showing any codes right now. I started it about two times. no codes cam back. I put the map back in, it's in there but doesnt feel very tight.but its in there good enough.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 78
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From: Nashville NC
If it will run above idle & not at idle, based on what you have described you have a direct vacuum leak off the intake. Sorta like having a PCV valve hose off. Check & recheck all your vacuum lines. Removing the intake won't do you any good in solving your problem. You could try having someone hold the rpms above idle while you spray carburetor cleaner around each vacuum line. When the rpms drop you're close to the leak. It may not be a line disconnected but rather one that is cracked or split.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The FAST manifold is a multi-piece design. Can't rule out a vacuum leak somewhere where the pieces are fastened together either. I also hope that large diameter nipple on the rear of the manifold where the vacuum hose from the brake booster pushes on isn't cracked or damaged. BTW, check out that hose itself too. All the way back over to the brake booster.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
just got off work, let me go check for some loose hoses. I'm going to check for some loose hoses. if the pvc isn't connected tight will it also die like that? cause i see this connector right here it totally cracked.
it was located right here
i dont even know how long that's been cracked. could that cause the dying?
it was located right here
i dont even know how long that's been cracked. could that cause the dying?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
really, it's never that easy. lol I hope it is. I will try to get a hose tomm and see. I'm gonna get the map re router to. as soon as I get this fixed. thanks all for the help. i will post the results.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
it's the program gm uses to service vehicles.
its basically a service manual on the computer. I will just have to retype the installation instructions. As soon as i get this prob fixed I will do that. here is some screen shots.
it lets you see how to fix everything, assuming you have all the tools and things.
its basically a service manual on the computer. I will just have to retype the installation instructions. As soon as i get this prob fixed I will do that. here is some screen shots.
it lets you see how to fix everything, assuming you have all the tools and things.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Nashville NC
Looks like a direct vaduum leak to me. That would sure do it. Ya might want to check all your vacuum hoses & fittings while you're at it. Chances are if one is cracked there will be more. It's just caused by heat & age. Hope that was the problem. Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
[QUOTE=bgreen83;1562188369]just got off work, let me go check for some loose hoses. I'm going to check for some loose hoses. if the pvc isn't connected tight will it also die like that? cause i see this connector right here it totally cracked.
it was located right here
i dont even know how long that's been cracked. could that cause the dying?[/QUOTE]
If that hose goes directly to the pcv valve and into the intake manifold, yes it could. Problem is, if that's a factory original
piece, you will not be able to buy just that rubber item itself. You may have to make up something on your own. MotorMite (HELP) brand of products makes various hose splice fittings, etc. Check your auto parts store to see if they have a 3/8" tee fitting, "Y" fitting or whatever you need and use some 3/8" fuel line hose hose to fabricate a replacement. Just don't use regular rubber vacuum hose.
it was located right here
i dont even know how long that's been cracked. could that cause the dying?[/QUOTE]
If that hose goes directly to the pcv valve and into the intake manifold, yes it could. Problem is, if that's a factory originalpiece, you will not be able to buy just that rubber item itself. You may have to make up something on your own. MotorMite (HELP) brand of products makes various hose splice fittings, etc. Check your auto parts store to see if they have a 3/8" tee fitting, "Y" fitting or whatever you need and use some 3/8" fuel line hose hose to fabricate a replacement. Just don't use regular rubber vacuum hose.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
i have to rig this? This one does not connect directly to the manifold. the problem is with the map in I can barely connect the pcv hose from the driver side to the y connector.I can barely get it in there, so i'm guessing since the hose from the front connects to the front of the manifold, i'm assuming that's where the leak is in the back. I will soon purchase the MAP relocation kit. It's like I can only have on or the other in. lol. If the map is in the PCV wont connect. if its connected the MAP grommet will barely be in the hole.
The back brake bolster is totally in there, and so is the a/c hose. That's the only two hoses i know connect back there.
Can I get the piece from a GM or chevy shop? or would I have to by the hole pcv set.
The back brake bolster is totally in there, and so is the a/c hose. That's the only two hoses i know connect back there.
Can I get the piece from a GM or chevy shop? or would I have to by the hole pcv set.
Last edited by bgreen83; Oct 6, 2007 at 09:57 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
The only PCV connection that matters is where it connects to the intake. All the rest could be open and it will still work. The PCV valve however must be installed. Usually when the PCV is not connected, the engine will idle too high.
Question: Do you hear a large vacuum leak when you start it? Did you remember to connect the brake booster vacuum line? It would be a very loud suction sound and the car will not run. As others were asking about the connection behind the intake manifold, there are several there and they must all be connected. I believe I heard here on the Forum that there was a learn procedure or calibration for the camshaft sensor. Way before in this list of postings, you mentioned something about a connector that you could see that appeared that it was disconnected. You described the metal wire which is the item that insures it can't fall off. If any connectors like that are not connected to their proper locations, it won't run. For example, without the MAP connected, it won't run and its back behind the instake.
Question: Do you hear a large vacuum leak when you start it? Did you remember to connect the brake booster vacuum line? It would be a very loud suction sound and the car will not run. As others were asking about the connection behind the intake manifold, there are several there and they must all be connected. I believe I heard here on the Forum that there was a learn procedure or calibration for the camshaft sensor. Way before in this list of postings, you mentioned something about a connector that you could see that appeared that it was disconnected. You described the metal wire which is the item that insures it can't fall off. If any connectors like that are not connected to their proper locations, it won't run. For example, without the MAP connected, it won't run and its back behind the instake.
Last edited by dgrant3830; Oct 6, 2007 at 12:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
The only PCV connection that matters is where it connects to the intake. All the rest could be open and it will still work. The PCV valve however must be installed. Usually when the PCV is not connected, the engine will idle too high.
Question: Do you hear a large vacuum leak when you start it? Did you remember to connect the brake booster vacuum line? It would be a very loud suction sound and the car will not run. As others were asking about the connection behind the intake manifold, there are several there and they must all be connected. I believe I heard here on the Forum that there was a learn procedure or calibration for the camshaft sensor. Way before in this list of postings, you mentioned something about a connector that you could see that appeared that it was disconnected. You described the metal wire which is the item that insures it can't fall off. If any connectors like that are not connected to their proper locations, it won't run. For example, without the MAP connected, it won't run and its back behind the instake.
Question: Do you hear a large vacuum leak when you start it? Did you remember to connect the brake booster vacuum line? It would be a very loud suction sound and the car will not run. As others were asking about the connection behind the intake manifold, there are several there and they must all be connected. I believe I heard here on the Forum that there was a learn procedure or calibration for the camshaft sensor. Way before in this list of postings, you mentioned something about a connector that you could see that appeared that it was disconnected. You described the metal wire which is the item that insures it can't fall off. If any connectors like that are not connected to their proper locations, it won't run. For example, without the MAP connected, it won't run and its back behind the instake.
(this is not my car)
if so its hooked up. It never came off. It's just where the pcv connects from the driver side to the passenger side right by the MAP isn't connected good. I cant get it connected well with the MAP and visa versa. So I guess I have to get rig it to extend the hose there so i can connect it better. I'm going to the auto store to pick up some things lonestar mentioned. The car will start and it just wont idle. I didn't unplug anything or take anything off other than the map and that back pcv connection. and It's too hard to get the map in and the pcv connected, I have a fast and been reading about the relocations and all the other modifications that had to be done for the MAP and pcv to work properly. so Hopefully i can get everything connected and the car will live AGAIN!!!! lol. thanks all for the help. I will keep posting til i get this fixed.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
here i go! i just got off work, going to take a little break and take the pcv off and extend the section in the back, so it doesnt bump the MAP and fix the broken connector. i hope this works!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 4
From: Elizabethtown
Finally
Guess what?! It's all fixed now
Thanks all for the input and advice, I doubt I would have had a clue what to do with out you all. thanks lonestar, wolfyss, dgrant3830, and skydive. I mad sure everything was tightened, plugged in and i added some fuel line here and there and some connected them with couplers. Instead of bumping heads with the MAP sensor it connects farther down. I got no codes, besides the steering wheel sensor, which is going to be another thing I have to do. lol. but I think I will be alright with you guys.
If you all like, I can send you the DVD service manual if you want. Ppl usually charge 25 dollars(that's what I paid). I'm pretty good with a computer so I can make and send you copies with instructions. just send me a pm with your address and I will send them out hopefully monday. The copies should work fine, I hope.
here are some pics
you can see here that it now goes right past without knocking on the MAP sensor
here You see the white piece? I connected about a 1 1/2 inch piece of fuel line to the connector and connected the other side the to PCV
I just took it for about a 20 minute spin. No codes, idles at about 900 rpm. I got a nice size cam so the idle is shaky but it's always been like that until i get that custom tune I plan on getting.
Thanks again all for the help!!! 
Thanks all for the input and advice, I doubt I would have had a clue what to do with out you all. thanks lonestar, wolfyss, dgrant3830, and skydive. I mad sure everything was tightened, plugged in and i added some fuel line here and there and some connected them with couplers. Instead of bumping heads with the MAP sensor it connects farther down. I got no codes, besides the steering wheel sensor, which is going to be another thing I have to do. lol. but I think I will be alright with you guys.If you all like, I can send you the DVD service manual if you want. Ppl usually charge 25 dollars(that's what I paid). I'm pretty good with a computer so I can make and send you copies with instructions. just send me a pm with your address and I will send them out hopefully monday. The copies should work fine, I hope.
here are some pics
you can see here that it now goes right past without knocking on the MAP sensor
here You see the white piece? I connected about a 1 1/2 inch piece of fuel line to the connector and connected the other side the to PCV
I just took it for about a 20 minute spin. No codes, idles at about 900 rpm. I got a nice size cam so the idle is shaky but it's always been like that until i get that custom tune I plan on getting.
Thanks again all for the help!!!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Glad to hear you got it fixed. I appreciate the CD offer, but since I already have the factory service manual I'm fine. Thank you thou. 
Now get out there tomorrow and drive that puppy!
Robert
I appreciate the CD offer, but since I already have the factory service manual I'm fine. Thank you thou. Now get out there tomorrow and drive that puppy!
Robert
