This is a new one, near as I can tell by searching the posts: Last Sunday PM, I pulled my '99 A4 into the garage, shut off the car, and the key was stuck. Also, it was in between the off and accessory (?) position, would not go to the off position. Power to the radio, seats, etc. still on, repeated attempts to get it to the off position failed. Car would restart OK, so I finally shut it off, disconnected the neg. battery cable and figured I would deal with it later. Two more tries, no luck; acted like worn lock mechanism. Called the local dealer, they agreed it sounded like worn lock, arranged to drive in over there and leave it to them. Hooked up the battery, started the car, into reverse, moved 3 feet, car shuts off. This went on for about 6 start, engine dies cycle. I got it back into the garge, thinking it was time for a tow. As I shut off the engine, the igniton turned to full off and key came out in my hand. I tried it again, car started and drove fine, no issues. How weird is this? Car has had the column lock job done, will steer with ignition off. Drove it to work today, no problems. Any ideas?

 

I'd be suspicious that the lock cylinder is wearing out. It will do the same to you again some day.

Do you have a heavy key ring with lots of keys on it? That is the most common reason for the cylinder to wear out. Best to just have the key and the fob, and carry other keys on a seperate key ring.

You should look into replacing the lock cylinder soon. The dealer can do it so that the car does not need to be re-keyed. They can "build" a new ignition lock to accept your current keys. Otherwise you either have to have a seperate ignition and door key, or have the door lock replaced also.

 

If you're getting fuel shut off on those 6 backups that you did, you need the CLB after you get the cylinder taken care of.

 

I only use one key, no fob, however I can't speak to what the previous two owners were like. I've had the car since June, only 38K original miles, runs very well. Original expectation was to rebuild the lock cylinder, as recommended by the dealer. That's probablygoijng to be done, but the more troubling part is the repeated restart / shutoff cycles. I'm wondering if the dreaded column lock / fuel shutoff thing is part of this. Dealer's service writer felt like that was not likely, but could not rule it out. He was reluctant to take the car in when it's working just fine, and the fix doesn't take. I'm wondering if this scenario has ever been seen by others? Dealer had never heard of this one.

 

Sounds like the typical column lock, possibly yours had been done and has the plate installed so the wheel cannot lock. The k-harness relay is an admitted piece of crapola per my techs conversation with GM technical. Corvettes of Houston is a good place for the CLB. First step would be for the dealer to look in the cars history for any of the column lock related work that has been done.

 

Usually if it is the Column Lock acting up you will get a message on the DIC, something like, "pull key - wait 10 seconds".

I'm guessing (let me emphasize GUESS) that what you were seeing was the Theft Deterrent system not working correctly (or correctly, depending on your point-of-view).

If the lock cylinder was out of alignment, it is possible the "chip" or resistor in your key was not being read correctly. Was your SECURITY lamp flashing when you started the car and were unable to drive it? If the key can't be read, the engine will start, but as soon as you try to drive it the fuel to the engine is cut off by the PCM.

 

I do believe I saw the SECURITY lamp flashing. There were no DIC messages that I recall, but I will take a moment to bring them up and see. There had been none before (other than the ones you get from the after cat sensors when the longtubes went on and an LDCM with an H). I think your theory makes sense, due to the alignment problem of the cylnder and resistor. I'll get the cylinder rebuilt as soon as it's convenient. Worst case is it happens again after the rebuild of the cylinder, then we'll keep on looking. Thanks for your help!

 

When I replaced my shift **** I experienced something similar. I couldn't turn the key to the full off postion, so I could not remove my key. Turned out that I had pushed the shift **** too far down on the shaft, I'm guessing, because when I pulled it up a bit everything worked fine. Just a shot in the dark.

 

I've done the exact same thing!

 

I see you have an A4. You'd get the same symptoms by not putting it into park before turning off. Maybe the interlock on the park position is the problem? If its not sensing that youve put it into P it wont let you pull the key.

 

There is a small cable that connects the shifter to the ignition switch so that the key cannot be removed unless the shifter is in park. If you remove the console you can see where the cable clips onto the shifter near the ash tray. It's possible something is resting on the cable preventing it from moving as far as it used to. You can unclip the cable from the shifter and check the ignition switch operation without removing the shifter.

 

Thanks for all the potential causes offered to this puzzling matter. Really appreciate all the ideas.

 

Ding, Ding, Ding!!! We have a winner

This is most likely why your key would not pull out of the ignition and the reason you activated the Pass-key/VATS protection is because the key was already inserted into the ignition when the battery was connected so the BCM got confused, pulling the key out and reinserting it allowed the BCM to read the resistance of the pellet on the key which took care of that problem also.

If it happens again remove the center console and look at the forward end of the shifter plate, there is a cable that runs to the back of the ignition switch.