My key fob for my 2000 corvette I will say every 2-3 days or so, I have to make it relearn itself by holding in the lock unlock buttons for 10 seconds. I bought it about 8 months ago and it has worked fine until 2 weeks ago. I already replaced the battery 2 times with new ones and I still get the same thing. It will not remember my car to unlock it.

It is a pain in the *** when I valet it they cannot unlock it and I have to tell them to hold down the 2 buttons for 10 seconds after they already walked 1/4 mile from where my car is parked. I have taken it apart and cleaned it and all looks well, no corrosion ect. The battery is checked out and new. What could be wrong? Has my key fob remote gone bad or is my car remote system gone bad? I think it is the fob but wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this. Also will only the 2000 key fob fit my car or 97-2000? I know one has a passive switch that I dont have or use that but can I still use a 97-2000 replacement or only 2000? Thanks for help

 

Ps If it sounds like I need ANOTHER remote key fob, does anyone have a used on for sale cheap

 

Have you checked to see if the RFA has any DTCs set?

If you don't know how to display codes .... go here ...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=26&TopicID=1

Post any codes that are stored in the RFA or BCM.

 

Yes I did this step already and there are no "C" codes at all. Maybe my fob has gone bad again?

 

I have been having similar problem. I can program the FOB but loses memory (doesn't work) within a day. I have changed the FOB from my working 99 Vert but it does the same thing. I think it's my receiver, not the FOB. I'll let you know if it's the receiver after I swap it from my Vert.

 

Same problem with three original fobs I had on my 00. New fob two weeks ago and problem solved. Don't know why but they go bad, 7 years old I guess. GM parts direct has them for $ 47.00.

 

You say that your battery is GOOD???? What battery are you referring to and how did you check it?

C5 BCM memory functions, RFA and all of it security settings are very sensitive to fluctuations in system voltages. Your 12 VDC main battery can be good enough to START the car but NOT good enough to maintain module functions during the COLD cranking process. Sounds crazy but, that the way it works. Been there done that! Had the same problems.

Look at ALL the DTC's. Do you have a ton of U series DTC' or ant in the BCM or RFA modules?? (U-1045 H, U- 1035 H etc..............

The U series coded indicate that those modules have either lost communications or shut down because inadequate system voltage (12 VDC)

I can here you thinking (What the hell ,,my car starts and runs just fine! )

During the initial cranking phase, your starter draws the MOST current from the battery. Current is what drives the starter motor. Battery voltage is inversely proportional to battery current. As current demand goes high, battery voltage will go LOW. If your battery is marginal, it will NOT be able to maintain the required system voltage during cranking and some modules will shut down until, current demand decreases or the alternator takes over. Once the voltage raises back to normal, all of those U series DTC turn to a HISTORY code and thats how you get them.

If you want to prove this, put a digital volt meter on the battery and when the car is COLD and has been sitting for a day or so, start the car and monitor battery voltage during cranking process. If battery voltage drops below 10 VDC during cranking, your knocking on the correct door to resolving the issue!

Either recharge the battery if it is just LOW or if it is greater than 3 years old, it may be getting weak.

My 2 cents.

BC

 

Thanks for the replies but when I mean my battery is good I mean the battery in the fob. My battery in the car is only 4 months old and was purchased new. It's just when I go to my car sometimes after 2 days or so my fob will not hold memory to unlock the doors of my car. Car starts fine and everything works normally. Just 3 times outta 10 the fob will not unlock my car and I constantly have to hold the unlock/lock buttons down for it to relearn. I hope its just the fob going bad. The connections inside look good, and the battery is also good

 

This same thing just started on my high-mileage '99. The fob will intermittently loose whatever when I try to open the car. Holding down the two buttons for about 10 secs will work and the car can then be opened. The first time this happened, both fobs did not work. I replaced the battery in the fob and the main battery in the car is good. Does anyone happen to know where the receiver is located? My manuals are lost/burried in the garage somewhere since I last moved.

 

You can purchase New OEM GM fobs on Ebay for under $10.00 each.
I bought a pair for my 2002 about 2 years ago and they work fine.

 

2000 and earlier FOBs are much more expensive than the ones for the 2002.

 

Yep, same prob on my 2k also. The original and 2 used FOBS have all stopped working without constant reset. I also noticed when I reset them the horn chirpped twice instead of the usual once and would work if I used it within about 10 min. after reset. After that, another reset was required. Truly a PIA! Bought a new one from Gene Culley at GM Parts House and solved the problem going on 3 months now, so I don't think it's the receiver. I'm kind of curious if this is a 2k prob. exclusively. Did I mention Gene now has these for $55.20 ea.? Thanks Gene!

 

My 2000 also had a fob problem I opened it up an found two bad solder joints on what I believe is a crystal. I resoldered the joints and everything is fine. BTW the receiver is located above the left rear well, you have to remove the carpet to see it.

Thanks,
Gary

 

Very interesting...mine started after I dropped it at home. It fell about 4 feet or so. I'll open it up tomorrow and look for bad solder joints.

 

It's the fob almost for sure. To answer your question, yes, the 97 to 2000 fobs will work on your car, but the passive feature will not. Don't buy the 2001 and up fobs mentioned for $10, they won't work. You've got the more expensive ones. Most places ask $90 to $120 for the 2000 fob. Search, there are a couple of places you can find one for around $60-$75.

 

Have the same issue with my 99. The 2 factory fobs stopped working, unless programmed basically daily. Tried a 3rd used fob from the forum, works as well (or as less) as my two factory ones.

 

I recently purchased a 1998 C5 convertible and noticed that the fobs did not work properly. In addition my tire pressure monitoring system had issues. So, I had my dealer replace all 4 tire pressure monitors and at the same time i purchased 2 new fobs. The computer was re-flashed and within 1 day I had the system complaining about the tire pressure monitoring system again as well as the fobs stopped working properly (passive locl/unlock). When i picked the car up from sercvice last night my dealer mentioned that there was a service bulletin about the remote door lock receiver in the car istelf and that this might be affecting other components such as my tire pressure monitors. has anyone else heard of this? How much is a new remote door lock reveiver and how long would it take to replace? Thx, -Marc

 

The reason the Remote Door Lock Receiver (also known as the RFA - Remote Function Actuator) can affect the TPMS is because it receives the signals not only from the key fobs, but also the Tire Pressure Sensors.

The part is GM # 19151480 and the dealer will probably charge about $350.00 for it. Labor should be one to AT MOST two hours. You can get the part cheaper from a supporting vendor and do it yourself. The receiver is located in the trunk, behind the panelling, on the driver's side.

 

Turns out on mine, during its sudden stop resulting from the fall it took when I dropped it, one of the battery connection contacts, broke away from the plastic, therefore the battery was intermittently disconnecting. I've superglued it, but doubt that it will hold. The other FOB was working just fine so its not the RFA.

 

with some minimal soldering skills you can just solder some wires from the battery connectors directly to the circuitboard. I did this when one of the little metal fingers broke and the remote was acting intermittently. however i still have a problem with the hatch (trunk) button working when it should. i have to press the lock or unlock a cpl times to get the hatch button to work.

how does one go about looking for bad solder joints on such a small circuitboard with tiny components?