I just installed new rotors, jacking up one corner at a time, and now I'm trying to re-torque the caliper bolts to 125 ft/pnds...
My question is HOW??...there just isn't any room to get a torque wrench (because of the length of the torque wrench)...and if you CAN find room, it's a heck of an awkward angle to try and push or pull it to 125 ft/pnds....one click at a time...
Am i missing something obvious? is there an easier way or better tool?
if i buy an air wrench, can you control the torque?
Running out of knuckles and patience. All advice appreciated!!

 

You want to get the car up in the air on jackstands. For the front wheels you turn the wheel all the way toward the opposite side of the wheel you're working on. I.E. you want to torque the LF caliper you turn the wheel all the way to the right.

With the wheel all the way to the right... hold it there, then remove hte key and slightly jiggle it still holding it far right until the column lock engages.

Now you will have just enough room to get a torque wrench in there. Trust me I run HPDEs and have serviced my brakes more times than you want to know. Repeat the procedure in reverse for the other side.

For the rears the lower bolt takes some strength and getting the leverage can be trickey. For the upper one I've found that it helps to unplug the wheel speed sensor and fish the wrench handle under hte upper control arm. You can get one click at a time that way.

HTH,
Brian

 

I've been there and done that!!!

If you jack the car up...you can slide under and access it with an extension.

I know from my own experience...tightening things "as hard as I can" yields about 125ft lbs. Did you add some thread lock?

al

 

I had two wheels done when I posted this...but frustrated as h3ll...
yup, using blue threadlock...

 

^ Yes... I've found that "as hard as I can" with a 1/2" rachet is right around 120ish.

However if you read my post you'll be able to get a wrench on it.

 

I had to heat the thing with a torch to get them out...what a pain in the ***...even the impact couldn't break it loose.

Also, my bolts had red thread lock on them...odd

 

^ It takes muscle, but I've never had to torch them even w/ red loc-tite.

 

just did mine last night put a wrench on the bolt and hit it with a hammer carefully so you dont hit the wheel wells
as far as torqueing them down
i just tightened the hell out of mine i drove 276 milees and they are just fine,when you take your back rotors off check your e brake and make sure it is not stickin i had to spray mine with pb blaster
their was all kinds of break dust and dirt keepin them from disengaging fully

 

The bolts installed at the factory have RED Loctite on them. When you order replacement bolts from GM they come with RED Loctite already applied. In other words, what you found is normal and correct.

 

I change mine over from sloted/drilled for bling to solid for auto-x several times a summer.
No issues. with access or getting them torque or removed.
I use a 16" breaker bar to remove and a 1/2 inch standard length torque wrench to tighten.

I don't turn the front wheels or unhook anything on the rear.
I lift the front and rear separately putting the Vette on jack stands, doing both frints and then both rears at the same time

 

Gotcha...i've heard guys putting blue loc-tite upon reassembly, but I stuck with red since that's what it had originally. And I reused the factory bolts...also seen mentioned to replace them? Can't see why if they're in good condition?

 

This has been "debated" over and over whether to re-use the bolts or not ... Here's my take on the issues ...

The GM Service Manual specifies to REPLACE both the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper pin bolts whenever they are removed.

The new bolts supplied by GM come pre-coated with RED Loctite.

Many people report that they clean the bolts, put fresh RED Loctite on them, and re-use them.

My belief is it comes down to a time versus cost issue. I think GM figured that at current labor rates, it is cheaper for a mechanic to simply use new bolts than spend the time cleaning the old ones. Most people say it takes about 5 minutes per bolt to clean them (some say more .... I guess it depends on how clean you want them) .... so if a mechanic is doing a full brake job (rotors and pads) .... that's 4 bolts per wheel .... 16 bolts at 5 minutes each is 80 minutes wasted on cleaning and preparing bolts .... WAY WAY cheaper to throw them out and use new ones. Also it gets GM out of liability issues ... if a bolt backs out and it was a re-used bolt ... GM can wash their hands of any liability. They specified NOT to do that.

So ... again ... time versus cost. The 16 bolts will run you about (last time I bought them) $65.00 ..... or you can spend an hour or so cleaning bolts ..... your choice .... so long as they are clean and have fresh RED Loctite on them they are as good as the new bolts .... your choice.

: cheers :

 

Black ZO6

I'm with u man...

Clean & reuse!!!

 

Bolts stretch, especially under repeated high torque applications. Brake components are also subjected to high heat and stress. The new bolts from GM also come with a red LOCTITE type product on them. It could be GM trying to avoid liability and warning the customer of the potential for failure.

 

You are referring to "torque to yield" bolts. These are typically like the u-bolts on a leaf spring. The caliper bolts are not torque to yield.
I have re-used my caliper bolts three times now and never a problem.
just my .02

 

Hi Guys,
I'm going to be doing my breaks very soon on my 2000 FRC and this thread is enlightening. My question goes to the jack stands. I have jacked up this car in the past but have not been comfortable with the idea of using the standard jack stand with it's usual bent up top part. Are you guys using any special stands? If just the run of the mill type then where do you usually place them so as not to damage anything?

Thanks,

Mike

 

Go to this thread and scroll down for a page from the Service Manual showing the correct jacking points ....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...highlight=jack

Many people place a small piece of wood between the top of the jackstand and the frame of the car. Just be CERTAIN the car is stable on the jackstands before getting under it. If raising the rear, be certain the front tires are blocked, front and back, after the car is on the stands. This will lesssen the chance it can roll forward/back and come off the stands. Same for the rear wheels if raising the front.

 

Sorry to be a pain but there is no longer an image on that page that I can see. It doesn't matter though I'll look in my service manual when I get home. I use the correct jacking points now for the jack itself so where would I put the jack stands along the frame so I can remove the jack? I would hate to break thru the floor panels.

 

The image is in post #2

Your Service Manual will have all the info you need. In my 2001 manual it starts on page 0-30, in the GENERAL INFORMATION section of the first manual.

The preferred locations for jack stands are:

Front - The large cross-member located almost directly below the firewall.

Rear - At the frame where the rearmost suspension parts attach to the frame.

You can also, if you have jacking "pucks" use the frame at the shipping tie-down points (those slots cut in the frame approximately below the front and rear edges of the door.

The manual has several pages of drawings to help you locate the right locations.