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i would add one ,every mod that u add helps most of the time ,i Just sold 1 to Corvette Don a 25 % pulley ,Powerbond they normally Sell for around 200.00 ,U may wanna go over to sales c5 sales section ,& Look for 1 ,i just sold mine for $ 70.00 ,This 1 is a 25 % UD pulley
Last edited by fsuforever; Oct 13, 2007 at 11:53 AM.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by it's a vette
My crank pully wabbles so I was wondering if I should replace it with just a gm part or look into those under pullies that they claim adds hp.
I like the Powerbond. They offer both a 10% underdrive and a 25% underdrive. Quality is better than a stocker. Since your there, pin (or key) the crank too. Easy and cheap to do.
I like the Powerbond. They offer both a 10% underdrive and a 25% underdrive. Quality is better than a stocker. Since your there, pin (or key) the crank too. Easy and cheap to do.
I like the Powerbond. They offer both a 10% underdrive and a 25% underdrive. Quality is better than a stocker. Since your there, pin (or key) the crank too. Easy and cheap to do.
No more "wabbles" either.
Even if there's no gain...It's worth it just for the sake of installing a much higher quality part.
If going as far as changing the underdrive pulley for a bit more power and fix the wobble. Throw a cam in there while the rack is out. That will add some more power and your only and hour away from it while the pulley is off...
Even if there's no gain...It's worth it just for the sake of installing a much higher quality part.
I agree about a higher quality part. I guess I meant stock spec rather than stock part. And I agree that there is no point in changing it unless you are doing multiple things....
My crank pully wabbles so I was wondering if I should replace it with just a gm part or look into those under pullies that they claim adds hp.
I'll share an experience I had with them. This may be uncommon. I went with a buddy of mine to a car show in Pigeon Forge (you're in NC, I'm sure you know Pigeon Forge when there is an event there. ). He had had them on for over a year with no problems. After about 20 minutes of sitting in stop and go traffic, his car started running rough and then actually died. Luckily, we were at a turning lane and got the car out of the main flow of traffic. A police officer showed up, and after jumping the car off succeeded in re-starting it, he stopped traffic long enough for us to get across the road into a parking lot. We removed both the alternator and the battery and took them to a local auto parts place, where they both tested good. It turned out that, at a 700 rpm idle, the underdrive pulleys turned the alternator too slow for it to charge the battery.
We spent about 4 hours all together messing with it, because of several stumbling blocks, and we missed a lot of the car show we went to see because it was outside and it got dark on us. Turning the idle up a little eventually fixed the problem.
Stock pulleys incorporate a dampening ring that most aftermarkets do not. Those rings are there to absorb high order vibrations. I'm not saying it will happen on the LS1, but if one were to hold just the right resonant frequency - well, bad things can happen. Google Tacoma Narrows bridge for a larger demonstration of this phenomenon.
If it were more than 5 ponies, I'd be interested, but for that little, no thanks.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Blorton
Hmmm, I'm gonna weigh in with a nay vote.
Stock pulleys incorporate a dampening ring that most aftermarkets do not. Those rings are there to absorb high order vibrations. I'm not saying it will happen on the LS1, but if one were to hold just the right resonant frequency - well, bad things can happen. Google Tacoma Narrows bridge for a larger demonstration of this phenomenon.
If it were more than 5 ponies, I'd be interested, but for that little, no thanks.
Just my humble opinion....
Dan
So you really think "most aftermarket" pulleys don't have inertia rings? You really think they are nothing more than just a steel/aluminum pulley and that's it?
You might want to check into the subject a bit more before saying that.
I'll share an experience I had with them. This may be uncommon. I went with a buddy of mine to a car show in Pigeon Forge (you're in NC, I'm sure you know Pigeon Forge when there is an event there. ). He had had them on for over a year with no problems. After about 20 minutes of sitting in stop and go traffic, his car started running rough and then actually died. Luckily, we were at a turning lane and got the car out of the main flow of traffic. A police officer showed up, and after jumping the car off succeeded in re-starting it, he stopped traffic long enough for us to get across the road into a parking lot. We removed both the alternator and the battery and took them to a local auto parts place, where they both tested good. It turned out that, at a 700 rpm idle, the underdrive pulleys turned the alternator too slow for it to charge the battery.
We spent about 4 hours all together messing with it, because of several stumbling blocks, and we missed a lot of the car show we went to see because it was outside and it got dark on us. Turning the idle up a little eventually fixed the problem.
I've had an underdrive pulley on my car for over 10,000 miles and have never had a charging problem because of it. 700 RPM is too low of an idle speed anyway. The pulley is a good idea of you are already going into the front of the motor for other mods. I don't think I would do just the pulley though. That isn't worth the time or money.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Blorton
Hey hey - if the pulley you want comes with a dampening component, go for it!
Thanks for the correction, lonestar.
Actually most, if not all do. Powerbond, ATI, ASP, Rattler, etc. They differ only the method of how they go about absorbing rotational vibrations. Some use silicone in a sealed environment, some use elastomer material ("rubber") and some may use weights that shift internally.
I agree with you very much for the need for this ability and the aftermarket folks do to. The biggest things that appeal to me are (other than any HP gains from their size) is the manufacturing quality (dimensions, etc), durability and materials used. Some also have an extended edges (like a fence so-to-speak) providing an additional guard against a serpentine belt's sideways movement on the pulley.
Like the others have said, if you're going to have to replace an obviously bad OEM pulley assembly anyway, it just makes sense to get one of these and to also key the crank snout while you're there as well.
Sorry if my earlier statement caused anyone to be concerned. I've seen problems develop from those cheap aluminum/steel only parts on other platforms and just wanted to raise a possible drawback. I know, for example, that a damper-less crank pulley installed on a beemer straight-six will result in a destroyed crank. Lots of twisting forces over a long distance there....
Anyone have large pics of the powerbond? I may have to add one to the pending h/c parts list...
Also, for those concerned about charging issues - I believe you can fit an overdrive pulley on the alternator which would sidestep that problem nicely. Me, my ac-less idle speed is 525 and I love the fuel savings.
IMHO, I think the 5 HP gain is a little optimistic. UD pulleys, especially on a mostly stock engine (I assume) have a tendency to cause engine overheating and battery drain. The safe bet is to stay stock.