When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am planning to do some work on my 2001 Vert over the winter. Typical heads & cam. I thought that I would do the clutch & flywheel while the car was down.
Does anyone have a link to a recommended Procedure? I am sure I can figure it out, but is there is a plan out there that I can use as a starting point?
We just finished mine on Monday. This is a great write up. One tip, when reinstalling the torque tube, to assist in aligning the splines and pulling everything together, get some bolts longer than the stock torque tube bolts that you insert in the torque tube to assit in realignment. As you use these bolts to get alignment and pull the torque tube into place, one by one, replace them with your stock bolts. Saves lots of time. Also, if you don't have a trans jack and enough help, separating the torque tube from the trans and diff is easy and makes working with the torque tube much easier. Finally, install a remote bleeder. The bleed valve is in a rediculous position. Good luck. It's a big job, but fairly reasonable. Just a lot of disassembly and reassembly. Zuti
The clutch is hydraulic and there is a bleeder on the slave cylinder that can only be reached when the car is in the air, contorting a hand no larger than a five year old so you can dump clutch fluid on yourself. It is a horrible design. The remote bleeder moves the bleed point to somewhere easily accessed.
I did some measurements during removal with a laser level so re installation would go easier. It slid in with one hand. I don't like mechanically pulling the torque tube into position with bolts as you risk damage, especially if your alignment is off.
Also, when you install the clutch disc and insert the alignment tool, it will fit a little sloppy. I finger tightened the pressure plate and then as I rotated the motor I measured the distance between the clutch fork fingers and the alignment tool to ensure it was centered.
I did some measurements during removal with a laser level so re installation would go easier. It slid in with one hand. I don't like mechanically pulling the torque tube into position with bolts as you risk damage, especially if your alignment is off.
Also, when you install the clutch disc and insert the alignment tool, it will fit a little sloppy. I finger tightened the pressure plate and then as I rotated the motor I measured the distance between the clutch fork fingers and the alignment tool to ensure it was centered.
Hi vettenuts -
The longer bolts hold the alignment perfectly - that is why I used the guide bolts.
I saw this tip in the write up in Corvette Magazine when they showed a tech at either Cartec or Vette Doctors doing a clutch.
If the splines on the torque tube were not engaged into the driven plate, then you could not even get the guide pin bolts to thread in.
The issue of alignment is for ease of assembly - it is a go or no-go bolt on operation - there is no adjustment as to the positioning of the torque tube or the clutch driven plate.
I take your advice to heart though - you need to be careful and deliberate when re-installing.
I am planning to do some work on my 2001 Vert over the winter. Typical heads & cam. I thought that I would do the clutch & flywheel while the car was down.
Does anyone have a link to a recommended Procedure? I am sure I can figure it out, but is there is a plan out there that I can use as a starting point?