hello everyone , im having a little problem with my 2002 z06 6spd trans . a few miles after i ahd bought the car i had a brand new trans replaced by the dealership , at the same time the trans was replaced i had the clutch and slave cylinder replaced .. i upgraded to the textrailia clutch bc i had plans of supercharging the car and using methonal injection , well heres the problem ... after i got the car back and the new trans and clutch were installed i noticed yet still a choppy shift to the car . i thought nothing of it as some people had told me i need to alllow time for the new clutch to break in .. i drove the car 1000 miles then sent it off to Vette Doctors to get the the rest of the work done .. i had it supercharged using A&A Performance Vortech System with intercooler and a methonal kit by Varie KOOL long tubes and cat delete X pipe .. as well as having the axels done .. i got the car back and drove for a little bit , i then took the car to the track on the street tires and ran an 11.27 @ 123mph with a 2.10 60ft ...B4 My next time at the track i installed a hurst short shifter and a set of hoosier drag radials - 335-35-17 ... this is the problem that im having NOW.. after running the car a few times and not to hard bc i was not sure how the new tires were gunna react , oh by the way the car ran a 10.89 @120 with a 1.80 60ft ... Ok now gettin to the problem as i said b4 the car has always had a choppy shift . witch went away after installing the hurst shifter , but now after runing the car again i am unabale to get the car to shift into reverse as it is very very difficult.. my question is .. Does anyone know or have any idea what would cuase this to happen ?

 

Not sure of the cause, but did you adjusted the shifter linakge once the new shifter was installed? Might help. Maybe someone with more knowleadge with tranny will be better help.

 

I had the driveline down in my '00 so I swapped the Torque Tube out for a newer one (12mm bolts). When I put everything back together including the Hurst shifter I had to fight to get the car in reverse.

Since I was going to get the car tuned the next day, I popped the stock shifter in and it worked fine. I had had the Hurst in the car for over 2 years.

I'm going to try to put the Hurst back in today. If I find out what the problems are I'll let you know.

Bob K.

 

Since the shifter is the problem i think it just needs adjustment, try this out it might work, if you want this write up with pics PM me your email and i will email it to you.
How to adjust the six speed shifter in your C5
A search of “corvettemechanic.com” revealed the method to adjust the shifter on a C5. Some more searching provided a step by step of how to get to the adjustment bolts from another corvette forum. The following, then, is a composite of the instructions from the two websites, plus my own narrative and additional pictures that I took to complete the specific instructions on performing this adjustment:
Tools Required
1 Small screwdriver
2 Large screwdriver
3 ViseGrips
4 Small block of wood - about 1x3x2
5 Torx T15 driver
6 Torx T40 Bit
7 3/8" Ratchet, extension, 10mm socket, 3/8" socket
8 Torque wrench
9 Plastic mallet
10 Small length of dowel (suggest 3/8” dia. X 4” long)
11 Optional - Flashlight, inspection mirror, magnet, claw type pick up tool, strong language... (only needed if you manage to drop anything in the tunnel – not that I did of course)

1. Start by using a small screwdriver to pry the appliqué from the shift ****.
2. Next, use vise grips to lock onto the metal "T" retainer.
3. Use the block of wood in conjunction with the large screwdriver to easily pry the retainer up and out. Unscrew and remove the shift ****.
4. Open the console and carefully remove the two plastic covers with a small screwdriver. Remove the two 10mm nuts.
5. Gently pry out the center module housing the traction control button. (As an optional recommended step, disconnect the negative battery cable before proceeding.) Disconnect the connectors to the air bag indicator light, traction control button and accessory power receptacle and remove module. Then remove the two 10mm nuts that retain the rear and front consoles to the floor tunnel.
6. Next carefully remove the cover of the inside air temp sensor beside the ignition switch. Remove the Torx screw.
7. Locate and remove the two other Torx screws located beside the cig lighter and behind the ashtray.
8. Slide the rear portion of the console back and tilt up to locate and disconnect the fuel door switch connector.
9. Remove the console and set aside.
10. Carefully remove the front/dash portion of the console -- don’t forget to reach behind and disconnect the cig lighter connector. This reveals the closeout boot covering the shifter. Remove the four 10mm nuts that secure the boot and lift off the close out boot.
11. Put the shifter in neutral. Then, slide the positioning pin at the front of the shifter down into the hole at the front of the rod housing. This may take some jiggling of the mechanism and use of the 3/8” dowel to push down on the pin – don’t force it as it will slide into place easily when you find the correct position. Do make certain that the pin is fully seated down to the small cutout you’ll see at the front of the shifter base. (If you don’t fully seat it the first time, you can use the vise grips to pull the pin back up and start again.)
12. Use the T 40 Torx bit, ratchet and extension to loosen the two mounting bolts and the shifter rod clamp bolt.
13. Confirm that the positioning pin is fully seated. Then torque all three Torx bolts to 22 ft. lbs. IMPORTANT: Torque the two mounting bolts first and then the clamp bolt. Withdraw the pin.
At this point you may want to temporarily re-install the shifter **** and close out boot only and road test. If you do, I suggest you also reconnect the traction control switch to avoid setting any codes. I simply rested the module on the center tunnel with appropriate padding.
Once satisfied with the adjustment, reassemble in reverse order of the above instructions. Some additional notes on reassembly: Do not over tighten any of the fasteners --- you don’t want to crack any plastic components; use the dowel and plastic mallet to gently tap the metal “T” retainer back into the shifter ****.