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Need tips for AR Header install

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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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Default Need tips for AR Header install

Hey all, any tips from you DIY'ers out there on header installs? Before I get these put in, I'd like a plan of attack all laid out so I know what lays ahead of each step I'm on.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:30 PM
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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FunLS1, The installation is pretty straight forward. You'll find an installation instruction sheet in the gasket box. If you have any questions I'll be glad to help you. Feel free to call the shop anytime.

Nick
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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Thanks Nick, it was great dealing with you on the phone, can't wait for the headers to get here Friday.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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I've done a bunch, about 20 secs to install the dr's side, sometimes the pass side needs the starter rem'd or just go in through the top(valvecover rem'd)about a 3 minute job on the pass side

Best system to work with, imho

about 3 hrs on lift, last w/e was 4 on ramps/jackstands
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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If you get stuck in the middle and need any help, feel free to give me a call and I can walk you through it.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Doten
I've done a bunch, about 20 secs to install the dr's side, sometimes the pass side needs the starter rem'd or just go in through the top(valvecover rem'd)about a 3 minute job on the pass side

Best system to work with, imho

about 3 hrs on lift, last w/e was 4 on ramps/jackstands
I'm going to need some serious ramps for this, I've heard I need atlest 22 inches of gap from below the tires when they are off the ground, suspension fully extended... wow, gonna have to come up with something.

Has anyone had any issues with header bolts backing out? Should I loc-tite them? Use the GM gasket already on the LS1 or use the gasket in the box?
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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GM gaskets are best in my opinion. You need the older round port version though. The part number Gene gave me is 12600530
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FUN LS1
I'm going to need some serious ramps for this, I've heard I need atlest 22 inches of gap from below the tires when they are off the ground, suspension fully extended... wow, gonna have to come up with something.

Has anyone had any issues with header bolts backing out? Should I loc-tite them? Use the GM gasket already on the LS1 or use the gasket in the box?
I had the car up on ramps and maybe another 3 inches on jackstands, don't sweat it, you don't need the car that high

use the AR supplied gaskets, they work great

use stock bolts at the heads, zero issues with the stockers backing out

Just get the car on stands and start wrenching
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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The 1 7/8 AR's were a lot easier to install on my 403 than the Dynatech's were on the 346. I had to replace my drive's side last weekend - due to a big rock in the road.

Nick took good care of me.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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I'm thinking I am going to do the usual jackstand shuffle with lowered C5's. Get the rear end jacked up a little, put 2 jackstands under the lower arms, move the floor jack to the front, jack up each side individually, jackstand on each side, move the floor jack to the rear with a wood block, lift up the 23", then do the same to the front end. Only way I can think it would work.
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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old manifold out from above
new headers in from below
remove starter wires... and block grounds (take pictures first)
push wiring loom out of way... use pictutres to ensure you found them all and reconnect properly
( car won't start and dash will light up like a Xmas tree if you miss one)

be careful removing the old manifolds you do not want to jar the bolts ( the aluminum heads have very soft threads). The moment you run into any issues with the threads STOP and chase them out with a M8 x 1.25 4 fluted blind hole tap. I used a tap socket on a ratchet from Snap-on to reach the ones at the firewall.

When I hung my new ones i could not get the rear bolts started on either side if I hung the headers with the middle bolt. I needed to start the ones near the fire wall first.

Take the opportunity to install a tunnel plate. It will greatly reduce cabin temperature...


expect to get a check engine light and codes PO420 PO430 ( low efficiency catyltic converter) until you get the mode changed on the rear O2's


here's a link ot a post of my observation I made at the time
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ations+headers

Last edited by rws.1; Oct 26, 2007 at 09:45 AM.
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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FED-EX says the headers and pipes arrive tomorrow... can't wait!!!
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 11:46 PM
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Well I know the Feeling I had gotten the UPS tracking number and was almost like a expecting father waiting on a newborn but have got mine on and what a difference it made, wish ya luck on the install !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 04:30 AM
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I did both sides from the bottom, passenger side I did have to remove the starter, done on Jackstands in the garage (Rear and Front elevated).
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 04:13 PM
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 04:44 PM
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I installed my AR Headers this weekend. It was a "piece of cake". Stock manifolds come out topside. I did have to remove the alternator. AR's went in from the bottom. To save time and a headache we removed the starter to help facillitate the install. Great headers!!! I absolutely love them.
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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Anyone have any issues with rust on their headers or pipes?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by FUN LS1
Anyone have any issues with rust on their headers or pipes?
No rust, I've had them on for almost a year.
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