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Hey all, any tips from you DIY'ers out there on header installs? Before I get these put in, I'd like a plan of attack all laid out so I know what lays ahead of each step I'm on.
FunLS1, The installation is pretty straight forward. You'll find an installation instruction sheet in the gasket box. If you have any questions I'll be glad to help you. Feel free to call the shop anytime.
I've done a bunch, about 20 secs to install the dr's side, sometimes the pass side needs the starter rem'd or just go in through the top(valvecover rem'd)about a 3 minute job on the pass side
Best system to work with, imho
about 3 hrs on lift, last w/e was 4 on ramps/jackstands
I've done a bunch, about 20 secs to install the dr's side, sometimes the pass side needs the starter rem'd or just go in through the top(valvecover rem'd)about a 3 minute job on the pass side
Best system to work with, imho
about 3 hrs on lift, last w/e was 4 on ramps/jackstands
I'm going to need some serious ramps for this, I've heard I need atlest 22 inches of gap from below the tires when they are off the ground, suspension fully extended... wow, gonna have to come up with something.
Has anyone had any issues with header bolts backing out? Should I loc-tite them? Use the GM gasket already on the LS1 or use the gasket in the box?
I'm going to need some serious ramps for this, I've heard I need atlest 22 inches of gap from below the tires when they are off the ground, suspension fully extended... wow, gonna have to come up with something.
Has anyone had any issues with header bolts backing out? Should I loc-tite them? Use the GM gasket already on the LS1 or use the gasket in the box?
I had the car up on ramps and maybe another 3 inches on jackstands, don't sweat it, you don't need the car that high
use the AR supplied gaskets, they work great
use stock bolts at the heads, zero issues with the stockers backing out
The 1 7/8 AR's were a lot easier to install on my 403 than the Dynatech's were on the 346. I had to replace my drive's side last weekend - due to a big rock in the road.
I'm thinking I am going to do the usual jackstand shuffle with lowered C5's. Get the rear end jacked up a little, put 2 jackstands under the lower arms, move the floor jack to the front, jack up each side individually, jackstand on each side, move the floor jack to the rear with a wood block, lift up the 23", then do the same to the front end. Only way I can think it would work.
old manifold out from above
new headers in from below
remove starter wires... and block grounds (take pictures first)
push wiring loom out of way... use pictutres to ensure you found them all and reconnect properly
( car won't start and dash will light up like a Xmas tree if you miss one)
be careful removing the old manifolds you do not want to jar the bolts ( the aluminum heads have very soft threads). The moment you run into any issues with the threads STOP and chase them out with a M8 x 1.25 4 fluted blind hole tap. I used a tap socket on a ratchet from Snap-on to reach the ones at the firewall.
When I hung my new ones i could not get the rear bolts started on either side if I hung the headers with the middle bolt. I needed to start the ones near the fire wall first.
Take the opportunity to install a tunnel plate. It will greatly reduce cabin temperature...
expect to get a check engine light and codes PO420 PO430 ( low efficiency catyltic converter) until you get the mode changed on the rear O2's
Well I know the Feeling I had gotten the UPS tracking number and was almost like a expecting father waiting on a newborn but have got mine on and what a difference it made, wish ya luck on the install !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I installed my AR Headers this weekend. It was a "piece of cake". Stock manifolds come out topside. I did have to remove the alternator. AR's went in from the bottom. To save time and a headache we removed the starter to help facillitate the install. Great headers!!! I absolutely love them.