Active Handling/Cruise Control Issue


Thanks,
Mitch




Bill




60-IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster
U1160H - Loss of Communications with LDCM
99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning
B0361H - Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
being under both IPC and HVAC i would not think either of these would have anything to do with the Active handling but both of these codes are new to me
60-IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster
U1160H - Loss of Communications with LDCM
99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning
B0361H - Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
being under both IPC and HVAC i would not think either of these would have anything to do with the Active handling but both of these codes are new to me
I'd also delete the HVAC code and see if it comes back. If it does, then post it in a new thread and someeone will help you diagnose it.
Intermittent AH events are usually the sign of a sensor starting to send bad data to the EBCM, I'd do two things ....
1) start checking for EBCM codes each day by using the DIC (most scanners can't read EBCM codes, the DIC display or a Tech2 scan tool are the only sure way to see them). Whatever sensor is getting flaky will eventually throw a code. Seems like several people who have seen this eventually see the EBCM throw a code for a bad Steering Wheel Position Sensor.
2) If the AH interventions are becoming noticeable, I'd consider disabling it when it starts to occur. Just hit the switch and turn it off.
Keep checking for a DTC ....

Thanks,
Mitch
In the case you're experiencing, if it's this or another sensor, it is not erring quite enough to throw a code, but is enough to falsely activate active handling. Unfortunately, until it throws a code, you don't have a definite sensor to pinpoint as the culprit. The steering position sensor does seem to be a fairly common one though.
When active handling is activated, as you noticed, it will disengage cruise control, that part is normal.
It is a little unnerving when you're headed down a straight freeway on a dry sunny day, and you feel the car suddenly activate the brakes for no reason other than a "glitch in the system".
It is for this reason I no longer use active handling. I turn it off immediately after startup. Been doing it for years now. I'm not so much worried about it saving me, I'm more concerned that it has just as much potential to CAUSE the car to wreck too.
Rob
Thats easy! Most of the time that I go into a 3 page write up about technical stuff only to find out the person who I'm writing to has NO idea what a meter is, what an OHM is or what a screw driver is for!
I can work up a tech procedure for you to follow Us 02 ZO6 guys need to stick together :
The sensor inside the drivers foot well at the base of the steering column and has FOUR wires:
There connected to pins 1, 2, 5 & 6 on the sensor.
Pin 1 is GRY and it will have a 5 VDC (4.9) reference sig from the EBCM. It also feeds the YAW rate sensor and the lateral rate sensor. i would also check for the voltage there. It is also a GRY wire.
Pin 2 is ORN/BLK and it will have a LOW REFF (sensor ground) Sig. It also goes to the YAW and lateral sensors as the same color wires.
Pin 5 is the Steering wheel position sensor signal phase A. It goes directly to the EBCM Lite green wire
Pin 6 is the Steering wheel position sensor signal phase B. It goes directly to the EBCM Lite Blue wire
If you disconnect the sensor plug, you should read (if i read the procedure correctly) .2 VDC on pin 5 & 6
Read the 5 VDC ref voltage to the Low reff pin 2, orange/blk wire should see 5 VDC. if you measure the low reff pin to ground it should not read any higher than 5 ohms.
If it were me,, I would hook up a jumper wire to pin #1 0n the sensor and when the steering wheel is straight, you should see The same output on pins 5 & 6. As you turn the wheel all the way right and left, you should see one pins voltage smoothly increase while the other one smoothly decreases.
Hope this helps.
BC
OK so I followed this procedure and want to make sure I didn't hose anything up.
Disconnected the SWPS connector.
Switched the Key to ON
Used my Digital Multimeter and followed the instructions above.
Using the Meter Leads read 5vdc across Grey to Orange/blk wire....check good!
read from orange/blk wire to light green wire....nothing 0 vdc.
same when reading from orange/blk wire to light blue wires.....0 vdc
next question is since the blue and green wire go directly to EBCM...is whether or not the connection is bad at the EBCM or is the EBCM bad?????
Thanks
It is for this reason I no longer use active handling. I turn it off immediately after startup. Been doing it for years now. I'm not so much worried about it saving me, I'm more concerned that it has just as much potential to CAUSE the car to wreck too.

I posted in another thread where the AH activated on me.....On the highway at 75mph and the left front brake locked hard sending the car into the other lane
- it scared the crap out of me. Luckily, I had 2 hands on the steering wheel and was able to keep control of the car. I immediately hit the button to de-activate TC/AH. I later checked the DIC....no codes whatsoever. Like it or not, this system has as much potential to be dangerous as it does being a safety item.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I posted in another thread where the AH activated on me.....On the highway at 75mph and the left front brake locked hard sending the car into the other lane
- it scared the crap out of me. Luckily, I had 2 hands on the steering wheel and was able to keep control of the car. I immediately hit the button to de-activate TC/AH. I later checked the DIC....no codes whatsoever. Like it or not, this system has as much potential to be dangerous as it does being a safety item.I figured out that I needed the connector hooked up to the sensor to the blue and green wires....the grey one is vdc switched.
Anyway with a paper clip inserted into the back of the connector (blue wire) while hooked up to the sensor. I rotated the steering wheel left and right and could never get the 2.5vdc with the steering wheel centered and the tires straight ahead....pretty conviced the sensor has bit the dust. I will report back later when I install a new sensor.


C1288 Steering Position Sensor Circuit
sounds like i am gonna need to replace this sensor....how do i go about that? and what is the part number for that sensor?
here are the facts, had all of the same symptoms as your car,remove trans no problems. (Brake light switch was problem, 26.00 to fix@
Chevorlote dealership, mine did it for about six mos.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1671631







That said, I'm coming up to a brake pad replacement. Mine's particularly temperamental under very gentle braking yet not under hard braking. I sometimes wonder if its something to do with vibration under light braking. Unfortunately its not consistent. It'll also trip on a long straight stretch with nothing going on. I've even had a trip when I deselected AH so it wasn't even engaged.
I've also had the crusie control trip out. I cleaned up the connectors at the hubs and I thought I'd fixed it. It seemed to improve for a while and I still think it may be better but not fixed. Its been wet this week and I've been getting trips again.
This system taxes my brain.
Last edited by DeeGee; Nov 17, 2007 at 02:43 AM.



That said, I'm coming up to a brake pad replacement. Mine's particularly temperamental under very gentle braking yet not under hard braking. I sometimes wonder if its something to do with vibration under light braking. Unfortunately its not consistent. It'll also trip on a long straight stretch with nothing going on. I've even had a trip when I deselected AH so it wasn't even engaged.
I've also had the crusie control trip out. I cleaned up the connectors at the hubs and I thought I'd fixed it. It seemed to improve for a while and I still think it may be better but not fixed. Its been wet this week and I've been getting trips again.
This system taxes my brain.






