Ok guys...forgive my ignorance as I am mechanically challenged.

Is there anything special (tools or knowledge) that I need to know in order to change my rotors with new aftermarket rotors and new brake pads??

thanks in advance
you guys are a wealth of knowledge

 

If you use search in C5 Tech, using keywords "paint C5 calipers", you'll find about six pages of previous discussions, many with images.
This is one...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...nt+c5+calipers

 

I have instructions...can email you if you PM me.

 

16 mm wrench

 

I agree. I just removed my calipers and caliper brackets to paint them, so I just went through most of what you're just about to.... About everything I needed to know I found already posted here. There were a couple threads I found specific to rotor replacement too....

But at the risk of repeating stuff from other threads..... Removing the caliper bracket bolts is a BEAR. This will be the #1 or #2 worst part of the project (the other one being knocking the old rotors off). The bracket bolts are put on with red loctite and torqued to 125 ft-lbs (more than your lug nuts) and the head face inwards (your lug nuts face outwards). You want a BIG BAD BREAKER BAR to get them off. I used my torque wrench (I really gotta buy a breaker bar), and just about gave myself a hernia. Also -- make sure you jack the car up high enough to get your big bad breaker bar in there.....

Keep an eye on your master cylinder to make sure it doesn't overflow when you retract the old pads. Get a turkey baster to suck some fluid out. Don't get any on your paint. Get a pint or two of new brake fluid to top it back up when you're done. While you're playing with the baster and the fluid, you might want to empty and refill the clutch master cylinder (with the same fluid) too.

To pull the calipers from the rotors you need to compress the pistons back into the calipers. Many (including the GM service manual) recommend a c-clamp, but the easiest way by far is to get 2 big screwdrivers, insert them into the little notches on the face of the caliper and pry the pad back, like this (this is the step that you need to remove brake fluid for!!!):


Photo source, worth reading this: http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_06...pad/index.html


Seems to me that you might consider bleeding your brakes while you're under there. Why go to all the trouble of putting on new pads and rotors and buying new brake fluid and then leave the cruddy old fluid in there?

That, a selection of metric sockets, an adjustable wrench or (16mm? 18mm? some wacky size, that's why I use an adjustible) open end wrench to hold the caliper pin while you spin the caliper bolt, some red loctite and a suitable hammer to whack the rotors off should about cover you. PB Blaster might be helpful in removing the old rotor if it's rusted on. You should get some brake grease to grease the contact points on your new pads (where they ride in the slides, and where they touch the clip in the caliper). Anti-sieze on the lug nuts is a nice touch too.

You might want to have the correct torques on hand, which you can find on the site here. Besides the 125 ft-lb for the brackets, I think it's 23 for the calipers themselves, and 100 for the lug nuts.

You might want to buy some new bracket bolts. Search the forum and you'll see why I say maybe. I (and many others) just stick the old ones back in with loctite; the GM service manual says new bolts should be installed each and every time.

You will need to play with your emergency brake -- I think you need to disconnect the cable from the handle inside the car, and you will need to adjust the e-brake shoes for the new rotor -- I have no experience on this but there was recently a couple good threads on this topic.

To remove the rotors, whack the FRONT of the rotor (the side facing you) between the lug nut studs. Loosely thread the lug nuts onto the studs to protect the studs from your hammer before you start wacking. There may be little retainer clips on the studs, which hold the rotor on. You can carefully remove and replace them, or you can rip them off and throw them away. You don't really need those. Anyway, back to the wacking... wacking the back of the rotor won't do much. Wack the front. Between the studs.

Brush any rust off the hub before you put the new rotors on. I think you're supposed to put some anti-sieze on the hub there too, to keep the new rotor from sticking to the hub... but not sure.....

You might want to consider painting your rotor hats before you install the rotors. You might want to consider painting the calipers themselves.

Don't forget to bed (burnish) the new brakes when you're all done. Something like 5-10 quick stops from 30->3 or 60->10 mph or something like that, about as fast as you can without the ABS kicking in and without coming to a complete stop. A forum search will turn up more info on this, and there is also a specific procedure in the GM service manual, and/or your brake pad mfgr may have some specific recommendations.

Last but not least, while it's jacked up you might want to consider changing the oil -- that will only add about 10-15 minutes to your project.

I have a pile of links at home that I collected before my painting project, I'll try to dig some of those up....

 

i appreciate it.

this project will likely be attempted next weekend.

 

Good info, thanks.
Im about to do this as well.

 

Just a thought -- tomorrow morning may not be the ideal time to swipe the turkey baster from the kitchen. Consider buying a second baster for the garage.

I have not forgotten my promise to dig up some other theads on this, just have not had a chance yet.....

 

Make sure the E-Brake is off for the rear rotors.

 

Haha, Yup.....Took me a min to figure that out.

 

Brakes are wat too impotrant. If you don't know what tools are required to do the job......take it in.

 

Great advice, EXCEPT using antisieze on lug nuts. DO NOT use any lubricant on lug nuts. Use a wire brush to clean studs if needed.

If you use lubricant on your lug nuts, you might just be chasing your wheel down the street. OR at least you will hear noise from wheel coming loose.