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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 05:44 PM
  #21  
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
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Use a Yank 2800 Stall Converter and it will put you into the 12's

Use a set of 3.42 Gears and you'll be in the 12's

Use both together and you'll be in the 12's although you will be lower in the 12's than using just one of the two only!

You will only need a handheld tuner to change either of these two or both together for the PCM to accept the new changes!

Thanks,Matt
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #22  
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I changed out my stock air box lid to the Z06 lid, K&N filter, Smooth bellows, Cleaned MAF, Seafoam, then new plugs and MSD wires, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, 160 Thermostat,Dyno tune by Jim at SWtuning.com.

Plus 15 RWHP, Plus 21 RWTQ max,,,,I can promise you will feel that

91 octane conservative tune and base and modded dyno runs on the same Mustang Dyno!
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 08:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Nightshifter
Sounds like you were pushing 400 FWHP then eh ? LG Streets are def. a good MOD for HP ! Shorties don't do sh*t from what I heard. I wonder about the 160 thermo though. It takes longer for the car to warmup, so in a cooler climate, it probably isn't a good idea. Arizona or Florida should work !
The way I see it is

LG > Ti = LS6 intake > 160 thermo.

Did the thermo when I did the water pump just because I had everything apart... and because I got a little preignition during 100F days. It won't take the car any longer to warm up, it just won't get as hot when it does... and it's pointless to run it without programming your fans unless you're on the highway.

p.s. .. that's some talent driving both cars at the same time
I'm quite skilled

I'd say I was at about 385ish FWHP; it was exactly as fast as my '01 and when I corner weighted it, it weighed about the same as the Z06's for whatever reason. FWIW, both cars had full tanks, and since the other driver was myself... well the drivers weighed the same, too. Suffice it to say that when lined up, neither car moved more than a foot with respect to the other from 40ish to 110ish (on the closed course, of course).

Guess I need to remove the '97 from my sig... sold it a couple weeks ago
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 09:12 PM
  #24  
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This is the name it was called on my bill of sale:
SLP Diablo-sport tuner
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CanadianVetster
This is the name it was called on my bill of sale:
SLP Diablo-sport tuner
Impressive, i didn't know you could do all that with the Diablo.
Is this the Predator ? I know it has an advantage over the Hypertech in that you can program your car for gears above 3:15 ! I heard hypertech won't do it for 3:42's and up!

I know you can change maps, program.. this that .. but if you can
tune it with the mods and pull that much HP, that's awesome !
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 10:43 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Silverbullet00
I changed out my stock air box lid to the Z06 lid, K&N filter, Smooth bellows, Cleaned MAF, Seafoam, then new plugs and MSD wires, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, 160 Thermostat,Dyno tune by Jim at SWtuning.com.

Plus 15 RWHP, Plus 21 RWTQ max,,,,I can promise you will feel that

91 octane conservative tune and base and modded dyno runs on the same Mustang Dyno!
So, if you did a more aggressive tune, 93 Octane (if it's in your area)
you probably could pull 30ish RWHP ?
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 10:52 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by madmatt9471
Use a Yank 2800 Stall Converter and it will put you into the 12's

Use a set of 3.42 Gears and you'll be in the 12's

Use both together and you'll be in the 12's although you will be lower in the 12's than using just one of the two only!

You will only need a handheld tuner to change either of these two or both together for the PCM to accept the new changes!

Thanks,Matt
Okay, was at the track tonight and here was my results. Note: I also had my G-tech PRO in the car with me...

1/4 mile 13.27 @ 107.1 G-tech PRO 13.34 @ 106.9 ( ~ .05 to a tenth difference between the 2 is normal because the track measure's when you cross the laser, the g-tech, as soon as it registers .1 g's...basically as soon as the car moves).

0 - 60 4.87 secs
0 - 100 11.23 secs

60' 2.20 (that blows... my best was like 2.18)


Stock 2000 A4 2:73 gears, 59 degrees outside.
Stock tires, 28 PSI rears, 30 PSI Fronts. Still spin a little, but just enough to get a good 0 - 60 time. Spin any more, then i'm doing 4.9 ~ 5.06 sec.

I know when i had my Z, stall converter and drag radials, I took 1/2 second of my time (mainly do to a much improved 60'). from 13.50's to 13.00s. Probably would had dipped into the 12's if i got a real good launch!
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 12:12 AM
  #28  
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My .02 is mods should be done in this order

Intake
Headers
if you have an Ls1 put on an Ls6 intake manifold
Cam

Thats what I am doing little by slow, the Cam and intake made 57 HP but took away a lot from the low RPM range hence the headers, and LS6 manifold and tune I should easily be over 400HP with those mentioned mods. After that it's a good idea to change the clutch and think about wider rear tires.

At the end of the day the best mod to make is a better driver
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 02:46 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by travelingypsye
I have a 99 A-4 & stock except pacecar cat backs & a twin cone intake. I also have 3.42 gears. The numbers surprised both the tuner & me. If there is a 22% loss with an A-4, I should have 400+ at the crank. Now besides the #'s the funny thing is the 3.42 gears. GM didn't even offer 3.42 gears as a option fr an A-4 in 99. I am the 2nd owner & I know that the 1st owner took the car to the dealer for every oil change, battery problem ect. I really don't think SHE had gears added. Go figure?
GM never offered above a 3.15 rear gear for the A4. The 3.42s would actually cause you to dyno slightly less than 3.15s or 2.73s. If you are truly making those dyno numbers with just a CAI and cat-back, I think the previous owner slipped a cam in there while getting the gears done...
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 08:55 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by danziger
GM never offered above a 3.15 rear gear for the A4. The 3.42s would actually cause you to dyno slightly less than 3.15s or 2.73s. If you are truly making those dyno numbers with just a CAI and cat-back, I think the previous owner slipped a cam in there while getting the gears done...
I really don't think so. When I bought the car, I also got every receipt for everything including the K-40 install, battery replacment & oil changes. Someone told me that GM installed ls6 engines in some 99-00 because they ran out of ls-1's. I have heard that from 2 different people. It could have been a miss set up on the dyno according to some other people. All I know is the car runs WAY better than it used to.
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 09:02 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Joe0121
My .02 is mods should be done in this order

Intake
Headers
if you have an Ls1 put on an Ls6 intake manifold
Cam

Thats what I am doing little by slow, the Cam and intake made 57 HP but took away a lot from the low RPM range hence the headers, and LS6 manifold and tune I should easily be over 400HP with those mentioned mods. After that it's a good idea to change the clutch and think about wider rear tires.

At the end of the day the best mod to make is a better driver
If you're losing bottom end, that's when you change gears (3.73,3.90 or 4.10s) to get you into that rpm spectrum of power quickly !
Which cam you going with ?
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 09:23 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CanadianVetster
2001 m6
before: 309.4 RWHP / 333.5 torque

MODS:
Blackwing intake / smooth bellows
new spake plugs
SLP Sport tuner
Corsa Cat back

332.3 rwhp / 345.8 torque
Did the SLP Sport tuner already have a MAP that you could
upload for your mods ? They make the Blackwing, so it seems to be
a nice package...

This seems to be a nice package, but not sure about it...

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-2-135-6641.html

Does relocating the MAT sensor to supposedly sense cooler temps in conjunction with using the tuner really work ? According to everyone .. NO! Waste of Money.
Now I heard good things about a ported and polished TB. Recommended by forum members.. >>> http://www.s2performance.net/vettepage.html
Little better bottom end, better response ... so this seems to worth it !

Last edited by Nightshifter; Nov 17, 2007 at 04:58 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 11:55 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by travelingypsye
I really don't think so. When I bought the car, I also got every receipt for everything including the K-40 install, battery replacment & oil changes. Someone told me that GM installed ls6 engines in some 99-00 because they ran out of ls-1's. I have heard that from 2 different people. It could have been a miss set up on the dyno according to some other people. All I know is the car runs WAY better than it used to.
Someone lied to you.

10% of normal ls1 cars had ls6 blocks in 2001
25% of normal ls1 cars had ls6 blocks in 2002

At least this is the figure for F-bodies. They still had the same heads, camshaft, and other parts, and made the same hp as ls1 block cars
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 04:19 PM
  #34  
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SLP MAF Housing claims that on a motor producing up to 600 HP, this is fine.. but on a stock motor, the stock MAF works just fine !

So these claims you'll get 8 ~ 10 HP with a larger MAF that's recalibrated...hmmm doesn't work !

Last edited by Nightshifter; Nov 18, 2007 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 06:13 PM
  #35  
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Oh this will give you 10th of your quarter !

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=19

something no corvette owner should be without !
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