Does anyone care to elaborate on this process? I have searched the forums and not found anything specificly related to the c5 shifter. My car pops out of 4th unless you hold it in hard then, it shifts like it should. I was told it could be synchros or shifter alignment.







Man, my c5 has alot of problems!!! Is this car covered by the "lemon law" of virginia? The window was in when I bought it, the car shifted normally in the relativly short distance that I dorve it for a test drive, and the clutch didnt stick

 

I read somethin in the C4 section that said pop the top off of the shifter and pull the little metal tab but after that I am unsure of what to do. Something I can do myself I hope and I REALLY hope that is all thats wrong with it


You guys are great help

 

You didn't use the correct keywords...go to the main page in C5 Tech and look at the red banner that says "search this forum".
Use keywords "C5 shifter adjustment". You should come up with many pages of past discussions.
This is one of them...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ter+adjustment
FYI, since you didn't specify oem shifter or after market shifter, this procedure applies to both. However, if you have an after market shifter like a KIRBAN, CALLAWAY, B&M "Ripper", or HURST, you probably have internal springs that can be changed, and/or shift stops that need the correct air gap.
Your symptoms possibly could be related to dirty clutch fluid and/or the manner in which you shift. CF member Ranger has had many past discussions about "cleaning the clutch reservoir" and hand position when shifting.

 

Everyone that has driven the car thinks that there is something wrong when shifting into 4th, not just me... I have also read Rangers post on technique which I do find very helpful but that does not cure my symptoms. I just cleansed my clutch fluid but I am affraid to shift it like I would any other gear becuase, it makes an awfule sound when poping out I would like to keep my gears intact

 

Not knowing what year C5 you have...some of the early C5 cars did have inferior shifting forks which were later improved upon by GM. That could be your problem and solution.

 

98 convertible... shift forks?

I appreciate your help as this is the first "real car" that I have owned and cared enough about to start doing the work myself, rather then having it done by someone else. Ive got corvette fever

 

hotwheels, what do you think?

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co.../photo_18.html

 

I'm not a transmission expert, just recalling from memory about the earlier year issues with shift forks. I think the troubled ones were aluminum and they were later upgraded to steel.
You might look through some of the site supporting vendors for performance or transmission shops...maybe one near you. Good luck with it.

 

I would play around with the shifter alignment first. When installing my shifter I found that the slightest repositioning of the shifter box (mounts to the torque tube) would cause 2nd and or 4th gear to be very hard to engage. It would also pop out of gear unless I held it in. Repositioning the shifter box as an assembly changes the pivot bias and thus changes the shifter travel in one particular direction (which translates into more or less shift rod travel). If you are having trouble with 4th gear I would suggest moving the shifter box assembly slightly towards the rear of the car to allow more backward travel.

 

I did the procedure on my '99 once before. Please look at SilentFright's picture above. Notice in the top red sqaure there is an alignment pin there. If I remember correctly, once you get the center console trim out of the car and access the shifter, put the car in neutral. Push the alignment pin down till it locks in all the way. You shouldn't be able to move the shifter at this point. Then loosen the clamp bolt for the shaft clamp. The shift rod may move slightly to its neutral position, re-tighten the clamp. As he mentioned above, you can adjust the whole mechanism too based upon individual needs. Now if I'm wrong on any of this, don't flame me as I'm trying to remember this from a long time ago. Actually I need to do the same again therefore will try to accomplish that in the next day or two and will update if I'm wrong on any of this.

 

http://rpmtransmissions.com/files/c5...adjustment.pdf

 

That was perfect, Thanks.. I couldn't remember real well, but looks like I was good.

 

Would someone be kind enough to post some instructions for how to remove the interior trim around the shifter?

My car has recently been dragging a bit getting it back into first, and I would like to try the adjustment outlined, I just don't want to do something boneheaded and break a piece of the trim in the process.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Also, if you have an aftermarket shifter and the little OEM locking pin is gone/removed, just use the smooth end of a 1/8" drill bit. Fits the hole perfectly. I also like to squirt a drop or two of motor oil into the little hole for the pin to lubricate the forward end of the shift rail rod while I'm there. A small dab of black silicone keeps the dirt out of it too.
HTH

 

Just checking your thinking.... Since fourth gear is pulled toward the rear of the car with the shifter; the bottom of the shifter pulls FORWARD, meaning more full engagement would be sliding the assembly forward, right?

 

It's fairly easy.

Remove the console lid. (four phillips screws)

Pull up the traction control switch housing....(just pull up)

Remove the two 10mm nuts underneath the traction control switch

Remove the lighter socket. some years have a screw on back, others you have to twist to the open tab, somewhat like a taillight lamp and pull out.

Remove the little cover next to the ignition switch.

Remove the ash tray

Remove the two torx screws. (t15 I think) (One under the ash tray, the other under the little interior temp sensor cover next to the ignition switch)

Lift up on the back of the bezel while pushing forward to slip the area where the two 10mm nuts were over the center console area

Once you have that up the bezel will be loose.

Push the upper shift boot in and down to disengage it from the bezel.

There are two pins that just stick into the dash on either side of the radio. You want to insure that you don't break those off so gently pull back on the bezel while rotating upward.

That should do it.

When re-installing be careful to get those two pegs started before popping the back down over the two studs where the 10mm nuts were.

Reverse the directions for the rest.

 

Excellent, that's what I'm looking for, thanks for the info, I'll give it a try tonight.

Jeff

 

Sorry for bumping a dead thread, buuut...

can anyone answer this ^ question. It seems like my 2nd,4th,6th (all the rear gears) will try and pop out occasionally if I dont shift "hard" enough.

Thanks fellas.

 

Look at post #15 in the thread posted previously,

Good instructions there.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ter+adjustment