Hey, ya'll. Recently purchased an '01, LS1, automatic, and am working out the bugs. One of which is the keyless entry.

A little history...

2001 Chevrolet Corvette, LS1, automatic transmission, T-tops. Was flooded a couple months ago, and I installed a new PCM last week. Everything works flawlessly except one function of the passenger power seat and the keyless entry. I have scoured this website for information and I came up with how to program the FOB. Ignition on, radio off, RESET, OPTIONS, etc. etc., but no luck. Tried several times. At the "Hld Lck&Unlck FOB#1" screen, it never does anything, and after about thirty seconds it goes to Tire somethingerather. Basically, it does not recognize the FOB is there, but it worked fine pre-flood and the transmitter itself did not get wet. Did some more searching, and saw that there is a receiver for the FOB and that it is on the driver's side of the vehicle. I am going to guess that it got wet and didn't like it. What exactly does it look like? Hard to get to? Expensive to replace? Also, with given the information, does it sound like the receiver is to blame to ya'll?

Thanks a lot!

 

The receiver but you should be looking at the BCM real close too.

 

Body Control Module? I thought that controlled many other things? i.e. power windows, power locks, etc. Wouldn't more than just a single function of the motorized passenger seat and the keyless entry not be working? Not that I am an expert or have a service manual for this car. lol Whereabouts is the BCM located?

Thanks again!

 

First thing I would do is find another 2001-2004 Corvette (friend, Club Member etc) and try reprogramming the fob to their car. This will isolate the fob being a problem.

Info on the receiver :

 

If you were flooded, good chance the BCM was in the water but only you would know. Its located in the passenger footwell.

 

The BCM is in the passenger footwell? That is the computer I replaced to make everything work again. Hmmmm

As of last night, I have more issues! Last night, friends and I went out to Medicine Park, OK (historical marker and all that, mountains, wildlife refuge, etc.) and coming back home I coulda' sworn that a person following me flashed their lights at me. Didn't think much of it and met up with another friend and he called my telephone and said that my tail-lights were out. Doh! I should have realized something wasn't right when we were leaving Medicine Park because my gauge lights didn't work! I looked all over for some sort of button, but I kept thinking that they came on automatically a couple nights before, but decided that the heads up display would suffice and that I am still new to the car and there is probably some way to get it to come on. Checked all of the fuses in the passenger floor and in the engine bay. Everything seems to be good. The tail-lights and gauge lights worked the night before.

The gauge lights work in "Accessory" until the key is turned to the "Run" position. So they have power, ground, and good bulbs.

Head-lights (including brights), park-lights, brake-lights, blinkers, hazard lights all work flawlessly. Tail-lights and rear side-markers do not work.

Any suggestions? lol Going to take apart the speaker cover today and have a looksee at the FOB receiver.


Thanks for all the great information!

 

Oh! As before mentioned, I do not have a service manual for this car, and I went up to Advance Auto Parts last night to try and "de-code" the abbreviations on the fuse box covers. They, of course, did not have one. However, I actually got a decent test-light from there. The others I had went into the trash. "RTD", "WSW", etc. What in blazes does that mean? lol So if anyone has a page in their manual that shows what all of that means, that would be way cool.

Thanks again!

 

Now the digital read-out, Driver Information Center, I believe it's called, doesn't work. Heh What in the world? These problems sound related in any form/fashion?

Thanks

 

You've got a multitude of issues going on there obviously. You might wish to PM Bill Curlee as he is the best expert around here for sure. If it was me, I would start with the ground splice packs and start curing whatever ills you can find there, meaning corrosion. Bill has identified a wire in the left door pass-through that can and will short out causing all sorts of issues. The PCM is located behind the passenger wheel well and controls the engine. It also communicates with the BCM as well as all the other modules.
How badly was this car flooded out? I will suggest that you start with a single problem and fix it, then move onto the next problem. Have you pulled the codes yet?
As for the lights, if you have the twilight sentinel, you should have been able to turn on the lights manually. If not, then look at splice pack 100 located at the right front frame rail on top.

 

I have some experience with the C5 electrical. Don't waste your time with Chiltons or any of those other shop manuals. With a flood car or any other serious problems, you cannot go wrong with the GM shop manual for your car. The money you spend will be saves many times over!! Usually between $100.00 used to $160.00 new. CF members have books for sale...

 

Ah, good information. I noticed several fuses in the box next to the BCM had some corrosion, but all lit up my test light on both sides of the fuse, so that is going to be an issue someday, but not quite yet.

I saw the Twilight-On/Off thing (on the DIC), but never messed with it.

My first thought after the fuses were all lighting up was possibly poor grounds. My guess is they are corroded. I will definitely check that out tomorrow. On top of the passenger front frame rail, correct? Is there something to help remove corrosion? Would Carburetor Cleaner or something be a good idea? B-12, maybe? I might as well go ahead and try to clean up the contacts on the fuses.

Water did not get up to the dash, supposedly. Had water in it for only a couple hours. This was my friend's cousin's car, and as soon as he could after the flood, he started on trying to get it going again, but couldn't figure it out so he went ahead and gave it the insurance company. Took a buddy and I roughly two days. :-P All was extremely well until last night and today. Heh I knew it was way too good to be true.

When we first put the new BCM in and everything was actually working, there were at least forty some odd codes. We manually cleared them, but some were still coming back. PO171 and 174 keep coming through, and I read that they are lean-codes. Possibly a little water in tank still, however, no detonation that I can hear. There is one code, A6-SCM, I believe it was, as soon as it was cleared it came straight back, but it never triggered the Malfunction Idicator Lamp. Also, some U--- codes came through, and from past automotive classes, I want to say those are transmission codes...?

I went out today after I got home from church to write down all of the codes to see if I can find them on the Internet, but the freakin' digital display is messed up now. lol So much for that. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll start working again.

Again, thanks so much, ya'll.

 

The BCM is down low as you already know and so is the PCM. The SCM(Seat Control Module) is on the bottom of the driver's seat, so it was probably under water as well. A couple of hours is massive to electronics. Any water at all will have loads and loads of contaminates in it which will potentially short out the electronics. I think I would be removing each unit one at a time and thoroughly drying it out and cleaning it out carefully. This means, electrically grounding yourself with a formal static discharge wrist strap on and working. Statis electricity can cause you a ton of problems when clean actual electronic components. Clean up and dry out everything. Also, don't forget your EBTCM too. The grounds have probably corroded and there are several. Look at all of them. Again, contact Bill Curlee.

 

Got some things narrowed down. Took out the fuse box (next to BCM) and the BCM and cleaned the fire out of the connectors, fuses, relays, terminals, you name it, it got cleaned.

Everything is now functional. Key fob, gauges, tail-lights, interior lights, etc. BUT! Turning on the radio/CD player screws everything up! Factory head-unit. Everything is working fine, no trouble codes, turn radio on or put in a CD and then there is no communication with anything, and all the ABS, TCS, air bag, etc. come on. If I turn the car off, it will not even crank! Take the radio/CD fuse out, everything works fine. lol

What do ya'll make of that?

Thanks

 

The radio also communicates with the onboard computers..it has its own codes. Have you pulled the codes from the DIC yet?

 

Yep. Pulled the codes via DIC. Still getting PO171 and 174 lean codes. Put in two new pre-catalyst H02 sensors and still getting the codes (replaced the post-catalyst sensors last week). I have a guy at Advance Auto Parts making some phone calls for me to try and find some 02 sensor assimilators. I believe that that might fix that up. (I know it's kinda' ignoring a potential problem, but I think it might be a case of a slight bit of water in the fuel tank. Like I said, I've heard no detonation, and I put in 92 octane fuel.)

Also, still getting the A6-SCM code (Seat Control Module). I believe it was Seat Position Sensor or something like that. I am going to take the seats back out today and check out the little computers to see what kind of obvious shape they are in.

Radio says, "No Comm.". It, of course, has the fuse out of it. Before taking the fuse out, it did not have any codes.

RFA is giving me three codes. U---- codes, which I found out are "Class 2 Communication Malfunction" codes and not transmission codes like I thought they were at first. I am still not quite clear on the location of the RFA. I pulled the panel down on the driver's side in the trunk area and found the little receiver thing with what seems to be two antennas sticking out of the sides with foam covers on them. Is that the actual the RFA? It seems so small...? By the way, I took it out and opened it up and it looks brand new.

Anyhow, I should be able to fix the lean codes with assimilators and the seat code with a thorough cleaning or possibly replacing the computer (not incredibly worried about the seat code). Leaving only the RFA issues. Doh!

Thanks, guys!

 

Little update...

Everything on the car now works EXCEPT:

Driver seat front/back. (Bad (BAD!) motor)
Passenger seat lumbar support. (Bad bladder unit)
Parking brake. (Dunno. Haven't looked)
Still getting lean codes. (Ha!)

About the lean codes...
Took the car in THREE times to local Chevrolet dealership. On the third try, they came up with that the wiring harness is out of a Camaro. They said they were going to put in a new MAF sensor to see if that would finally fix the problem (so we can stop wasting time and money), but the wire connector on the car is a three-wire-connector, like from a Camaro, and the one that should be in there is a five-wire-connector. Doing three minutes of research, from what I can tell, the LS6 engines came with five-wire connector MAFs and the LS1 engines (which is what I have) came with three-wire connector MAFs. Am I reading that right or is the dealership right about it being a Camaro harness? I find it hard to believe when I know the person that put the engine in the vehicle DIRECTLY from a 2000 Corvette. Wiring harness and all, swapped it over to this '01. If you're thinking the VIN says the engine is an LS6, it doesn't. It is an LS1 car with an LS1 in it. Anyone have any ideas? lol

Thanks!

 

Surely someone has an idea.

Thanks

 

Parking brake has a sensor under it. Pull back the carpet and you'll see a little blue switch, one wire.

 

Early LS1 MAFs have a 3 wire connector. Newer units incorporated the temp sensor into the MAf connector. My 99 C5 has a 3 wire maf, so it's not limited to F-bodies.

Careful with the lean codes. Running lean is an easy way to blow a motor.

Good job on tracking down and fixing the other issues you had. Once you get everything squared away, sit back and enjoy the ride.

 

There will be on going electric problems with your car given the amount of water and the level of water in the car. Corrosion will be the death of varies electric connections and grounds. This car has a electric system that is effected with every day operation without being flooded. Salt water flood is the worst. I have been there and the car just kept had one problem after another that I resold as a flood car to a local vocation tech school as a project car for their class. In one year very metal part or metal surface was starting to corrode, a real mess that I was glad to sell.