Early LS1s have a 3-wire MAF, uh? I wonder if I could go to a local parts store and look at one from a 1997, '98, '99 or something?

As far as blowing the engine, I have actually heard no detonation whatsoever, I believe it is just a matter of the MAF not reading correctly. (But the Malfunction Indicator Lamp is so dang annoying!)

Thanks for the "good job". This thing has been a lot of work. lol But getting to cruise it around has been an absolute blast! Also, once I get everything squared away, I do plan on sellin' her.

Oh, by the way, the parking brake light works, it's the actual parking brake the does not. Something mechanical, in other words. Like I said, haven't looked, but thanks for the location on the wires for it, that is something I will need to look at for corrosion, as I have not.

Luckily this flood didn't involve salt water. However, it still has taken quite the toll on various components. lol I believe I just about have most of the corrosion issues taken care of. If one can get ALL of the corrosion gone, then it shouldn't come back. But if there is ANY left on a connector or whathaveyou, it WILL come back.

I purchased a brand spanking new (passenger) seat from an '02 'Vette to rob the lumbar motor and front/back motor. All functions of the passenger seat now work flawlessly. On the driver seat, everything works except the front/back is screwy. Installed the seat and straight when I plugged in the connectors the seat started moving forward by itself! I hit the switch to go backwards and the seat stopped moving forward. Released the switch and it started going forward by itself again. Once the seat was all the way forward, hit the switch to go backwards and nothing happened. I unhooked the connectors and reversed the polarity for the front/back motor and the same exact thing happened once I connected the connectors except it was going backwards by itself.

What in the world does that mean? lol

 

About the seat- you probably have a stuck/corroded switch.

As for the lean codes- the originate from the O2 sensors monitoring your exhaust. If they say you are lean, then there's a really good chance you are really running lean. Now they could be bad, or you could have an exhaust leak, but other things should start to show up if that's were the case.

It's hard to actually feel/hear a lean condition until you hit 17/18 AFR and the motor starts surging cause it is running that lean.

It's nice to hear a new owner get this involved in fixing up thier car. Many people just drop off the car to the mechanic and then bitch about the bill Looks like CF members are more hands on troopers. As long as this isn't your only ride, enjoy driving your new toy and learn from the board on fixing the bugs that crop up, I'm sure you'll have your share.

 

The switch is my next thing to check out as far as the seat goes.

The pre-catalyst and post-catalyst HO2 sensors are new. I checked the header bolt tightness and they seem to be alright and the after headers exhaust was recently put on by a friend and me, so the gaskets are fresh and there is no audible exhaust leak. (Now THAT was hard! Just using a hydraulic floor jack!) Re-charged K&N air filter, checked for vacuum leaks, when changing running lights/blinker bulbs I found that the A.I.R. pump was disconnected and the vacuum line that goes into the air filter box was capped off. I hooked that little hummer back up and un-capped the hose and installed it into its place PRAYING that it would eliminate the lean codes. (Even though it injects oxygen into the exhaust, doesn't it? Which would make it MORE lean. No such luck, obviously.) After that, only thing I knew to do was to take it to the local Chevrolet dealership. lol First trip they said there was corrosion on the MAF and they cleaned it up and did a fuel injector service. A mile down the road after picking it up, codes were back. Took it straight back. They kept it for another couple days and said that there was a service bulletin on the plenum gasket. They replaced that. Got to my house (six or seven miles away), codes came back, although the idle was much much smoother. Gave 'em a ring, told me to bring it in in a couple days. Took it in, they said the wiring harness was from a Camaro because of the MAF connector.

As far as getting involved with the car as much as possible, I have a deep passion for the automotive world, and plus I am broke from the initial buy of the car to to able to pay someone else to work on it! My daily driver is a 1988 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS. Learning from people on this message board has been truly a blessing. Ya'll have helped a lot! Gotta' love free (correct!) information!

 

Sorry to all dealer mechanics out there, but there is no way your harness is from a camaro. Corvette is a "Drive by Wire" meaning there is a electric motor and TCM controlling the throttle body while the Camaro's have a mechanical cable.

Secondly I take it you have a 2000 engine in a 2001 car. Uh OH! I suspect there are minor differences in the engine wiring harness particularly with the O2 sensors. I'd get a hold of some schematics and start tracing the O2 circuits. The MAF sensor connection may also be a difference.

 

Yup! This car has had a rough life. lol Started out in 2001 as a sharp little car. Then in 2003 it was stolen and the interior was completely stripped and title turned to salvage. My friend's cousin bought it from Sapulpa Auto. Pool Auction (a hundred or so miles away from where we live here in Oklahoma) and also bought a TOTALED (and I mean totaled) 2000 Corvette with a drivetrain that had 20,000 miles and a black leather interior reflecting those miles (brand new). Swapped engine and wiring harness in favor of the 2000 with less mileage and swapped the entire interior over also. Drove the 2001 Corvette with the 2000 wiring harness, engine, and interior for a couple years and tragedy struck again. I dunno if ya'll heard about all the floods we've had this past year or not, but we've had four or so. Anyhow, he lives in quite the fancy house...next to a creek. lol He did everything he knew to do to try and rescue the car (dried it out, got a BCM from the '00, etc.) but couldn't get it to run, so he passed along to the insurance company (where he made $15K off of it, which is what I am wanting to do as I financially cannot support two cars and school) and is now in the market for a Dodge Viper. I asked him if he was crazy and told him to get an '08 'Vette!

I never thought about the HO2 sensors being different. Something else to look into, I reckon.

Thanks again!

 

wow, now that's quite a story!

I'm pretty sure that the O2s themselves did not change over the years, but later models had a pre cat, or pup cat that older models did not.

The front O2s should have a flat 4-pin connector, rear ones have a longer harness and a square connector. Internet rumor is that the rear ones have a stronger heater circuit.

If you are getting lean codes on both banks, I'd venture to say it is truly running lean. No way to really tell unless to stick a wide-band on it.

 

So did you replace the BCM (passenger floorboard) or PCM (behind right front wheel) or both? And if I understood correctly the car drove fine without any codes before the flood?

 

Correct. Front sensors are flat connectors and rear are square. Parts store sold me all square the first trip. Doh!

Only the BCM was replaced and things started working and the car would actually crank and run and drive.

Car drove fine pre-flood, but the previous owner ALWAYS had lean codes since he put the car together, but never bothered to look into it. (There were several things he NEVER did that I would have done ASAP. Would've driven me crazy!) Probably because he figured it would cost a bunch. $600 is what I have spent so far to "diagnose" the lean codes. "It's a Camaro wiring harness." Heh

 

Both seats are now fully functional! Was talking to a friend about the situation with the driver seat front/back and his recommendation was to look into the seat memory first thing. (Passenger seat does not have the memory, obviously. Mentioned that I wasn't able to hook the memory wires to anything as there was no plug-in.) Took the electronic part from the broken seat motor and put it onto the working motor and swapped the shaft from the right side of the motor to the left side and hooked that little hummer up and it worked! So, future reference, seat memory wires need to be hooked up or the seat will not function properly.

Now just the lean codes and parking brake.

Parking brake light comes on and the lever ratchets and feels like it is doing something, but it sure doesn't hold the car at all. Good thing it is an automatic!

Getting so close to flawlessness!

 

If the car has had lean codes since the engine swap, I'd get a hold of some electrical schematics and verify pin by pin that all is the same between 00 and 01 at the PCM connectors. If not you may be able to repin and solve your problem. There may also be slight differences in the fuse box connector. Start there, it's a cheap check. Maybe some of our fellow members can post/e-mail the schematics.

 

With all of the problems you seem to be having you really need to invest in a paper or DVD manual for the car as it is just too hard to post all of the info you need on the forum. The paper manuals consist of 3 volumes and have 1400 pages. The DVD versions are a little more manageable and have search features which help you locate things without thumbing through a lot of pages (Manuals lindex and TOC are sort of useless).

RTD stands for Real Time Damping (that is what GM calls the adjustable shock absorbers).

Bill

 

The voice of reality here. Insurers total cars that have been in floods, irrespective of how long they had water in them, because of all the continuing electrical gremlins. Corvettes are so dependent on electrics that I cannot imagine one being successfully salvaged unless the buyer is willing to pay far in excess of the cost saving between purchasing a Corvette that hasn't been in water, compared to one that has.

 

I shall see what I can do about some wiring schematics to do some easy, cheap checks.

I really really should have invested in a manual from the get-go, but now that I am down to one last issue, I'd rather not spend the money as they are typically over a $100.

A few days before the car went on auction, I did some heavy research on restoring flooded cars and I actually decided against getting it because of all of the things one has to do to get it completely fixed. Most websites and forums I read said that if the car was not one of a kind to just replace with the same car that has not been salvaged because it is generally cheaper to do so. Well, I decided since I never told my friend to tell his uncle what my stopping price was, I figured that was a done deal. Well, evening of the auction, he calls and said he bought the car for me and that he is needing the money ASAP. I thought he was kidding and "playing along", I asked him how much he got it for and he told me the price, which was double what I was GOING to spend, and I realized he wasn't kidding and I crapped my pants. I was actually pretty pissed off about it, but now that I've worked on it, gotten it running WAY easier than I ever would have imagined, gotten to drive it, looked at the spreadsheet on how much I've spent on it, I am SO GLAD I got it.