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C5 Newbie, taking the starter out
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
C5 Newbie, taking the starter out
Good day folks,
My girlfriend just bought a 99 C5 M6 and we've been having some bad luck so far, got a bad rear wheel blowout after just 2 hours of owning/driving it, so bad it chipped a piece right off of the rim, and now it wont start anymore. checked the battery, recharged it, re tightened connections still no go. I can hear the relay click in the fuse box, and hear the solenoid click loudly but the starter wont engage. I've ran the on-board diags with no current error codes.
I'm now positive it's the starter, even though it was starting flawlessly the night before.
So I'm asking the experts help, I've crept underneath the front it looks like I have to take both headers off to gain access to it, is that correct?
Also, if the starter is done, what's the best replacement? Just rebuilding it? or would it be best to look for an aftermarket? And which aftermarket?
Thanks in advance guys.
Denis
My girlfriend just bought a 99 C5 M6 and we've been having some bad luck so far, got a bad rear wheel blowout after just 2 hours of owning/driving it, so bad it chipped a piece right off of the rim, and now it wont start anymore. checked the battery, recharged it, re tightened connections still no go. I can hear the relay click in the fuse box, and hear the solenoid click loudly but the starter wont engage. I've ran the on-board diags with no current error codes.
I'm now positive it's the starter, even though it was starting flawlessly the night before.
So I'm asking the experts help, I've crept underneath the front it looks like I have to take both headers off to gain access to it, is that correct?
Also, if the starter is done, what's the best replacement? Just rebuilding it? or would it be best to look for an aftermarket? And which aftermarket?
Thanks in advance guys.
Denis
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,876
Likes: 8
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '06 & '12
Disconnect the passenger side exhaust at the manifold. Then loosen the 8mm bolts that hold the manifold on. You dont need to remove them.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
checked the battery, recharged it, re tightened connections still no go
If corrosion was seen, any leaking acid could damage the computer mounted beneath.
Others have reported the wires on the solenoid have loosened and/or shorted out causing problems.
Are there any other odd electrical symptoms? When the battery is going, it's usually a myriad of electrical issues.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Nov 18, 2007 at 06:25 PM.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
We've tried starting off of another (known good) battery and no luck still, so I really don't think thats it... And I haven't had any other electrical issues.
I also seem to have lost the "plunger" tip that holds the fuel door closed. The actuator still works but the actual tip is gone...Can I replace just that piece or do I have to get the entire unit?
thanks again guys, really having bad luck here
also..the jackass who last put the rear wheels on knowingly striped a stud and left it there loose! I know he knowingly did it cause when I opened the center cap, that lug nut was only halfway threaded...had to drill it out...
I also seem to have lost the "plunger" tip that holds the fuel door closed. The actuator still works but the actual tip is gone...Can I replace just that piece or do I have to get the entire unit?
thanks again guys, really having bad luck here
also..the jackass who last put the rear wheels on knowingly striped a stud and left it there loose! I know he knowingly did it cause when I opened the center cap, that lug nut was only halfway threaded...had to drill it out...
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Have you checked the:
Theft Deterrent Relay
IPEC fuse#48 IGN 2
IPEC fuse#14 CRK
IPEC fuse#50 Starter 50 Amp
Clutch Pedal Position Switch
Theft Deterrent relay
BC
Theft Deterrent Relay
IPEC fuse#48 IGN 2
IPEC fuse#14 CRK
IPEC fuse#50 Starter 50 Amp
Clutch Pedal Position Switch
Theft Deterrent relay
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 18, 2007 at 08:30 PM.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I have checked fuse 14 and 52, and have also checked that TDR, I can hear it click when I turn the key, The solenoid only clicks when I have the clutch pressed, so that leaves me to believe the clutch switch is fine.
I have not checked fuse 48 or 50 though, so I'll do that tomorrow (I'm at work now)
thanks again guys
I have not checked fuse 48 or 50 though, so I'll do that tomorrow (I'm at work now)
thanks again guys
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you pump the clutch peddle on and off the clutch safety switch, the TDR should click ON & OFF. The TDR output (PURPLE WIRE) is the 12 VDC power to the starter solenoid. I just had the same issue and the TDR was BAD!
It clicked but the high current contacts in the realy were BAD.
BC
It clicked but the high current contacts in the realy were BAD.BC
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Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I have checked fuse 14 and 52, and have also checked that TDR, I can hear it click when I turn the key, The solenoid only clicks when I have the clutch pressed, so that leaves me to believe the clutch switch is fine.
I have not checked fuse 48 or 50 though, so I'll do that tomorrow (I'm at work now)
thanks again guys
I have not checked fuse 48 or 50 though, so I'll do that tomorrow (I'm at work now)
thanks again guys
What I meant to say is, I hear the relay click, and I only hear the solenoid snap (loud click from engine compartment) when I have the clutch pressed, and turn the key.
But i will also check the TRD tomorrow by taking it out, applying 12 V to the low side, and checking continuity on the high side.
I'll keep you guys up to date.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 389
Likes: 1
From: Roswell GA
Disconnect the passenger side exhaust at the manifold. Then loosen the 8mm bolts that hold the manifold on. You dont need to remove them.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
I did not have to remove the headers when I changed my starter either. I did have to drop the whole H-Pipe (exhaust between headers and muffler) I tried to only disconnect from the headers and pull it down enough to pull the starter out, but it would not come down far enough. About 1 cm off from clearing
I was able to reuse the front seals, but the backs have to be replaced.
The job should not take more than about 2-3 hours tops for your first time.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 1
From: Central Florida
Disconnect the passenger side exhaust at the manifold. Then loosen the 8mm bolts that hold the manifold on. You dont need to remove them.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
Ask me how I know it's true, I just did my LT's..
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If your actually hearing the starter solenoid snap together and the starter doesnt spin,,,,,you will either have:
Bad battery cable to the starter
Poor 12 VDC cable connection on the starter
Bad solenoid "MAIN 12 VDC HIGH Current Contacts" inside the solenoid
BAd Starter Motor brushes or stator windings.
Check the connections on the rear od the starter before you get too far into the operation. They have a BAD habit of vibrating loose!
BC
Bad battery cable to the starter
Poor 12 VDC cable connection on the starter
Bad solenoid "MAIN 12 VDC HIGH Current Contacts" inside the solenoid
BAd Starter Motor brushes or stator windings.
Check the connections on the rear od the starter before you get too far into the operation. They have a BAD habit of vibrating loose!
BC
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,876
Likes: 8
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '06 & '12
Its pretty sad really..
I think I could take the car apart and put it back together without missing a beat. Thats when you know you have a sickness.
I think I could take the car apart and put it back together without missing a beat. Thats when you know you have a sickness.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,604
Likes: 3
From: Glendale, AZ
Disconnect the passenger side exhaust at the manifold. Then loosen the 8mm bolts that hold the manifold on. You dont need to remove them.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
You will need a 10mm socket and 7mm socket to remove the wires from the starter.
Then take a 13mm socket w/long extension and remove the 2 bolts on the starter. It will pull right out.
Its quite simple.
i have the same problem now, and i'm not looking forward to changing this starter at all!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 23,682
Likes: 9
From: Flagstaff Az.
Once you get the starter out, pull the solenoid off of it and take it apart. I don't know for sure if this will be the problem, but it could be. There is a brass or copper headed bolt that the solenoid connects with when it is activated, and on Chevys it usually wears only on one half of it and gets so that is does not touch for the contact needed to activate the starter. Loosen the nut that holds it in place and rotate it 180 degrees. 
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Once you get the starter out, pull the solenoid off of it and take it apart. I don't know for sure if this will be the problem, but it could be. There is a brass or copper headed bolt that the solenoid connects with when it is activated, and on Chevys it usually wears only on one half of it and gets so that is does not touch for the contact needed to activate the starter. Loosen the nut that holds it in place and rotate it 180 degrees.
Tiojames,, Thats the stuff that I normaly do my self. I have not had to repair a solenoid in a LONG LONG time! Normaly just needs to be cleaned up and like you stated, rotate of flip over the contact ring.
Good job!
