Dreaded C1214 Code - Think I fixed It
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 2
From: Arlington VA
Dreaded C1214 Code - Think I fixed It
So its a beutiful day in Northern VA today, 70s and sunny. I decide to drive the Vette to work. Runs beautifully. Cruise home for lunch and shut down in the driveway. After lunch I start up to head back and as I am backing out chimes start going off and the DIC reads... Service ABS, Service Traction Control, Service Active Handling. Tried turning the car off a few times and re-starting but no go. 
Decided to park it and drive my other car back to work.
Tonight, I pulled code TCS C1214 HC. Did some research on this Forum and found tons of posts. I decided to try cleaning both gound connectors on the frame rails just aft of the headlights. They did not look too bad but took a brass wire brush to all the connectors and reconnect. I then disconnected the EBCM main connector on the front of the engine and dusted the plug with a light brush. I could not see any obvious corrosion so I reconnected it and made sure it was securely fasented.
That did the trick.
To my amazement, the DIC did not give me any more warning messages upon starteup. I pulled the C1214 code up and cleared it, then took a test drive. No more active handing issues.
Question, do you all think I got lucky on this fix or am I likely in for more suprises with the EBCM down the road? I want to thank those folks like Bill Curlee and others for their very informative posts. I could not have figured this issue out without them and this forum. All my best and Happy Thanksgiving.
Decided to park it and drive my other car back to work.Tonight, I pulled code TCS C1214 HC. Did some research on this Forum and found tons of posts. I decided to try cleaning both gound connectors on the frame rails just aft of the headlights. They did not look too bad but took a brass wire brush to all the connectors and reconnect. I then disconnected the EBCM main connector on the front of the engine and dusted the plug with a light brush. I could not see any obvious corrosion so I reconnected it and made sure it was securely fasented.
That did the trick.
To my amazement, the DIC did not give me any more warning messages upon starteup. I pulled the C1214 code up and cleared it, then took a test drive. No more active handing issues.Question, do you all think I got lucky on this fix or am I likely in for more suprises with the EBCM down the road? I want to thank those folks like Bill Curlee and others for their very informative posts. I could not have figured this issue out without them and this forum. All my best and Happy Thanksgiving.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
It's possible you got lucky and cured it but then again if it's the relays in the EBTCM module that were acting up, the situation may return. Time will tell. Good luck.
Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
My expirence.
I have a 2003 50th, the true one. Shortly after buying it, (49000 miles), started getting this code, (C1214). Was really considering taking it to the shop, (ouch).
I read and did two things, one has been mentioned on this thread. The first thing that I did was to use the clearing codes on the DIC. You push option and hold. While doing that, press the fuel button 4 times. That puts the DIC into diagnostics, (Please look this up, much better description). Went through all the codes. Found a couple of not expected things.
1. There were more codes than the code reader picked up. - I had several BCM codes, (I think 4, messed up and did not write them down). Cleared those.
2. Cleared the C1214 code.
3. Took the car out and Slammed the Brakes 3 times, (In case a valve is stuck).
4. Drove the car for about 40 miles, hard, but not crazy, (hate tickets).
5. After shutting the car off, (wife and I went shopping), for a couple of hours, had the car run self Diagnostics. NO CODES!
I do not know if this will help, or if I actually fixed the problem. Just what I did and saw. 1 Trip with multiple stops, does not a success make.
Thanks, hoped I helped.
I read and did two things, one has been mentioned on this thread. The first thing that I did was to use the clearing codes on the DIC. You push option and hold. While doing that, press the fuel button 4 times. That puts the DIC into diagnostics, (Please look this up, much better description). Went through all the codes. Found a couple of not expected things.
1. There were more codes than the code reader picked up. - I had several BCM codes, (I think 4, messed up and did not write them down). Cleared those.
2. Cleared the C1214 code.
3. Took the car out and Slammed the Brakes 3 times, (In case a valve is stuck).
4. Drove the car for about 40 miles, hard, but not crazy, (hate tickets).
5. After shutting the car off, (wife and I went shopping), for a couple of hours, had the car run self Diagnostics. NO CODES!
I do not know if this will help, or if I actually fixed the problem. Just what I did and saw. 1 Trip with multiple stops, does not a success make.
Thanks, hoped I helped.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
My Expirence.
I suggest that your actions relieved some pent up frustration with the C1214 code. HIGHLY unlikely that it permanently corrected the cause of the C1214. 
C1214 is indicating a power problem with the main power relay in the EBCM. The cause of the power problem can be any of several things. The relay itself may have failed, The solder joints for the relay to the EBCM circuit board may be very poor (cold solder conditions of many of the electronic circuit boards in the C5 are VERY common) . The ground for the EBCM may have corrosion on it. The fuses that provide power to the relay may have corrosion on their blades. The ignition switch may have pitted and burned electrical contacts that cause a voltage drop across the switch rather than supplying full battery voltage to the EBCM fuses and then the power relay in the EBCM. The battery may be weak or low or have corrosion on the battery connections including the one to the starter solenoid. There are probably a few more that I missed as well.
I suggest that your C1214 WILL be back soon and that you are going to have to delve deeper into the real cause of the lower than required voltage at the power relay in the EBCM. JMHO
C1214 is indicating a power problem with the main power relay in the EBCM. The cause of the power problem can be any of several things. The relay itself may have failed, The solder joints for the relay to the EBCM circuit board may be very poor (cold solder conditions of many of the electronic circuit boards in the C5 are VERY common) . The ground for the EBCM may have corrosion on it. The fuses that provide power to the relay may have corrosion on their blades. The ignition switch may have pitted and burned electrical contacts that cause a voltage drop across the switch rather than supplying full battery voltage to the EBCM fuses and then the power relay in the EBCM. The battery may be weak or low or have corrosion on the battery connections including the one to the starter solenoid. There are probably a few more that I missed as well.
I suggest that your C1214 WILL be back soon and that you are going to have to delve deeper into the real cause of the lower than required voltage at the power relay in the EBCM. JMHO
I will have to see. Hope for the best.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 137
Likes: 8
From: Dallas Tx
I suggest that your actions relieved some pent up frustration with the C1214 code. HIGHLY unlikely that it permanently corrected the cause of the C1214.
C1214 is indicating a power problem with the main power relay in the EBCM. The cause of the power problem can be any of several things. The relay itself may have failed, The solder joints for the relay to the EBCM circuit board may be very poor (cold solder conditions of many of the electronic circuit boards in the C5 are VERY common) . The ground for the EBCM may have corrosion on it. The fuses that provide power to the relay may have corrosion on their blades. The ignition switch may have pitted and burned electrical contacts that cause a voltage drop across the switch rather than supplying full battery voltage to the EBCM fuses and then the power relay in the EBCM. The battery may be weak or low or have corrosion on the battery connections including the one to the starter solenoid. There are probably a few more that I missed as well.
I suggest that your C1214 WILL be back soon and that you are going to have to delve deeper into the real cause of the lower than required voltage at the power relay in the EBCM. JMHO
C1214 is indicating a power problem with the main power relay in the EBCM. The cause of the power problem can be any of several things. The relay itself may have failed, The solder joints for the relay to the EBCM circuit board may be very poor (cold solder conditions of many of the electronic circuit boards in the C5 are VERY common) . The ground for the EBCM may have corrosion on it. The fuses that provide power to the relay may have corrosion on their blades. The ignition switch may have pitted and burned electrical contacts that cause a voltage drop across the switch rather than supplying full battery voltage to the EBCM fuses and then the power relay in the EBCM. The battery may be weak or low or have corrosion on the battery connections including the one to the starter solenoid. There are probably a few more that I missed as well.
I suggest that your C1214 WILL be back soon and that you are going to have to delve deeper into the real cause of the lower than required voltage at the power relay in the EBCM. JMHO
Here is a picture of the open EBCM.
In case you can't see the bad solder joints, here is a close up.
This bad solder joint can work sometimes and sometimes not. Maybe a temperature change or some vibration will make it work - for a while.
It is surprisingly easy to fix. Took me 5 hours on a saturday afternoon. After re-soldering it, I took the car out for a test drive before dinner. It has been working perfectly now for a month. A good test is to hit the brakes as the front tires go over rail road tracks.
Just get it fixed....
