I know, I know....Another thread about headers.

All I want to talk about or hear about are "true long tube" headers.
NOT Kooks or ARH...as they ARE NOT true long tube headers!!!

Namely: LG PROS....VS.....DYNATECH, etc...

Both are very similar in setup, etc. What about construction, fittings, quality, welds, etc...Is either setup higher quality...more stainless steel?

Does anyone out there have dyno sheets for a C5 Z06 with the Dynatech's compared to the LG Pros????

Any other information about Dynatech's??? What about the power down low for street driving??? I currently have LG Pros on my Z06 and am considering replacing them with another true long tube header.

Chime in quick!!! Oh...and Happy Thanksgiving!!

 

..........oh, so you want true "unequal" length headers

do nothing, you have LT's already

 

At what length are headers considered "true long tube"? Also are you measuring from the flange or from the rear face of the exhaust valve like you're supposed to?

 

From what I have seen, Dynatech Headers have excellent fitment and make excellent power. Give Charlie a shout at RPM Motors, I he is a Dynatech Dealer.

 

I just dynoed with LG PRO, eveything is ok, but they are loud, and not out the back, but because of THIN steel, it sounds like an exhaust leak, but it's accually thin wall headers, not something i like, i guess you could cosider them "light weight" but i would much rather only hear my exhaust out the back of the car, rather then under my shifter

 

I have heard from several reputable LSx engine builders/ tuners that long tubes are all about the same.

We have a 2004 GTO with Pace Long tubes (cost all of about 250 bucks) stock 243 heads and a 224 cam that dynoed 402 HP. The only thing I ever consider is cubic inches vs. primary diameter. Other than that you are splitting hairs.

 

FWIW I wouldn't trade my kooks for the world.

 

curious: if you have the pros, why are you considering changing to another header?
I do second the comment about the sound being under the car as opposed to out the back, but then again, my LG streets also never quite sealed right. It was never enough to get any exhaust smell, but there were always tiny leaks.

 

I have 'true long tube' Kooks that are 'true fat tube' too. They are 1 7/8" primaries.

 

I guess I just don't understand, why would you remove the LG Pro's and install the Dynatechs, are there issues with your LG's? The LG's are assembled by Borla, who I would think would do excellent work.

 

Dynatech Supermaxx w/ hf's and x-pipe thru Corsa Touring,,,Roar at WOT, non drone or resonance at cruise, plus 15 rwhp plus 21 rwtq over base on the same Mustang Dyno. No leaks and all the sound is behind me where it belongs:

 

Kooks, ARH, are Long Tubes just like LG's and Dynatech's. They may be a little shorter, but they are long tubes headers. A short tube header would replace the OEM manifold and bolt to the OEM exhaust pipes.
I have Dynatech's, but if I was ever to do it again, I would probably go with ARH. I like there design better and there collectors. The Dynatech's are a PITA to get the top bolts tightened. IT might not be so bad with an air ratchet, but I don't like firing up the compressor here in the condos. I think I would like the v-band clamp design better vs the 4 bolt design. Even though I don't have any hands on experience with them, they seem to look nice. The ARH has the same collector design and LG's. I saw a set on a car on a lift, and I just like where they had there collectors. Seemed to have more room than my Dynatechs. I think they are all good headers. And it's more of a personal preference it you ask me. Or which one is the best value. They will all give at least an average of 20-30 RWHP gain. I would just make sure it's a 300 series stainless steel, and then get them ceramic coated, and they should out last your car.

 

Buy Lingenfelter

 

same problem here brotha. My ceramic coated Bassanis were quieter..maybe it was because of the ceramic coating. So if the "thin" ones burn out I'll be going with something different..

 

I currently have LG pros. I ran over a rock a few weeks ago and damaged the headers. They will be replaced. I'm considering going with the Dynatechs. I do like my LG's though.

I spend the majority of time in my daily driver between 2k to 4k rpms. From what I understand, the ARH headers DO NOT make the same torque numbers in that RPM range as the LG's or Dynatechs. I could care less what the final peak tq and hp ratings are as long as I get the hard kick from the torque in the low rpm range.

 

FWIW

I did a little research on Long and Mid length Headers, still haven't found a definitive definition on the two but here's the general gains of both;

The LONGER primaries of the LG's & Dynatech tend to LOSE their scavageing effect above 3500 rpms.. They are GREAT for LOW END TORQUE at LOWER RPMS. Perfect for street driving & road racers..

However for DRAG racing, the brands with shorter primaries KOOKS, AR, TPIS, will OUT PERFORM from 4000-7000 rpms, exactly where the powerband is @ WOT....

The dyno results may only offer minimal if any gains, but on the dragstrip, a .05-.1 quicker ET can be had.

Dyno tests with headers having primary lengths adjustable in three-inch increments show that lengths between 24 and 36 inches have only a minor effect on the power curve of V-8s that you and I can typically afford, although the longer pipes do marginally favor the low end.

PRIMARY PIPE LENGTH
"The overall length of the primary header pipe is governed almost exclusively by the target engine's rpm range, which is dependent upon wave tuning. Typically, a lower engine rpm range likes a longer primary pipe, while a high rpm engine prefers a shorter primary."

PRIMARY PIPE LENGTH
The length of the primary pipes also affects torque. Where diameter affects the torque peak relative to rpm, the length affects the shape of the torque curve. Longer primaries provide more torque below the peak and reduce it past the peak. Shorter primaries provide more torque above the peak at the expense of below-peak torque. More torque in the low- to mid-rpm range is important to drivers who want that feeling of seat-of-your-pants performance on the street. Longer primaries also reduce the chance of escaping exhaust's being drawn back up another pipe.

In order to keep the torque curve the same for all eight cylinders, it is important that primary pipes be equal in length. Exactly how equal they have to be is more critical on uncorked race cars than for the vast majority of mild-engined street cars running through mufflers. In most applications, pipe length deviation of 2 to 3 inches on a set of full-length headers is not a problem.

 

Wow, I am surprised. When I first started my QTP's they sounded different and are not loud at all. Heads/cam corrected that fairly quickly though. Wall is pretty thick on the QTP's from what I remember but I didn't measure them.

 

The extra coating is helping to act as a sound barrier, I doubt by much though. Every set of headers I have ever used has had "header tick"; every car with headers that I have ever heard has "header tick". LG's are no less thinner than any other manufacturer, if they were, the heat from the exhaust would crack them in no time. This is header tick, nothing more , nothing less.

 

Whatever... The LG Pro's are the best header you can buy for what you want. The Dynatechs will be a step down
IMHO. BTW, the Kooks are longer than TPIS, and ARH's are pretty much a copy of the Kooks as far as I can see. The Kooks primaries extend into the collector and terminate with a spike in the center. This effectively lengthens the primary. They are still shorter in overall length than the LG's, but not by much. Also, they are built with the X-pipe before the cats, so this helps the scavenging more. They make great power everywhere.

 

Great input, Thanks