I am currently looking into power-adders for my LS1. I have been to many HP shops who specialize in this kind of work and one of the tech's said I would be surprised what difference a shift kit with a billet servo would do to my (automatic) transmission. My motor has 70K on it, but I have been the only owner. It is a 2000 convertible and it comp tested like a new motor. I have a Borla stinger exhaust and a few other light mods. Is this automatic shift kit going to make a huge difference in torque management? I already know at this point that I will never drive the car as fast as it can go, so I am modifying it mostly cosmetically. The shift kit is not a huge expense and seems to be reasonable "must-have" for my needs. I just cant seem to find anywhere on the net that really tells me what this kit will do to an ALREADY automatic tranny. Thanks in advance.

 

IF your staying under 400rwhp you do not need a shift kit. However you do need to have the torque managment tuned out of your computer. Most tuners know how to do this. Even on a all stock c5 tuning the transmission will make for a quicker et at the track.

 

Thanks. I am really happy with the car the way it is. I just ran into a guy who owns his own small High Performance shop in Roseville, Ca. and he was so informative about the LS1 motors. He had 6 of them there all modded for the track w NOS and Prochargers, roll bars, tiny front wheels, etc.

I love the cosmetics of my car. I have blacked out windows (not suitable for high speed at night), machined wheels, Borla (like I said earlier) I also have cross drilled-slotted zinc washed rotors, AC Delco calipers, SS brake lines...

I have a lot of miles on this car, but it is SO solid. I am not sure what I want.

Someone mentioned on another post that just owning and driving a Vette attracts a lot of new attention. It seems that you can pretty much beat anyone on the street even stock.

I love the sound of the heavier cams and all that.

So, I have another question for you: If I really love the looks of the car but I want more speed, besides tuning the torque manager in the computer, what would YOU think I really want (need)

Money is not a problem, I just dont want to abuse the motor at the quarter mile strip. I prefer to have the top speed there when I want it.

Would you Procharge a strong motor at 70K? How long do you think a good LS1 will last when it has had regular oil changes and NEVER been beaten down?

Lots of questions, I know.

 

I have an 03, A4, Coupe. I have added AR headers. 3:42 gears, a Yank 2800 rpm Stall converter and Corsa Touring catbacks. I asked my tuner about the trans-go kit. He suggested to me that I try to have the transmission tuned first. Another friend of mine tuned my trans and WOW..what a difference!!!

We shortened the shift times to 250 mS. We pushed the up-shift points higher up in the RPM band and moved the down-shifts points further down the RPM band. This thing drives and feels like a race car now. No more "lugging" in third gear at 1500 RPM's with 10% throttle. Now i just slightly press the "Go pedal" and it immediately downshifts and launches. No need for a shift kit for me now. HTH

 

Ha ha! I just asked my tuner about the same thing. Im gonna hook up with him next week.

I am on my third set of rear tires, maybe I better start looking for something different along with these changes?

I still want someone to give me their opinions on adding a Procharger on an LS1 with nearly 80K. I guess I should put up a new post?

This guy at Force Fed says as long as the motor is a strong as it is, no prob. I suppose if all failed I could just rebuild and still have my forced induction???

 

Shift kits will change the timing of your gear changes in your Automatic Transmission, by increasing/decreasing the flow of the ATF going through the transmission.

In most instances, people install shift kits that will allow the gears to have shift points at higher RPMs, thereby getting that "manual tranny" feeling, rougher shift feeling, possible chirping(also depends on your gear ratio if its a RWD), etc., and usually a faster 0-60 mph/1/4 mile time.

why are you wanting to use a blower if you do not even like to push the car as it is? Sounds like your local mr fix it is a good sales man.

You say i dont want to go fast but ask about charging???

If you want a show car why not look at the tigershark body kit or specterworks ?

If you do not care about 1/4 mile times or speed stay out of the motor and programming. That is my advice. No reason to go there

and using boost of anykind will eventually break something on a car. It is an endless cycle of strengthening and fixing if you are actually using the boost.

 

Thank you very much for that last post.

That is what I wanted to hear. Believe it or not, I run into a lot of people that have tons of torque (no management) and will NEVER run the car as fast as it will go. Some just don't want to install mandated rollbars. Here in Cali, if the speed doesn't kill you, the tickets will.

I suppose many Vette owners will NEVER run their cars as fast as they will go yet have the "need for speed" mentality. Logically, it seems, as you stated, something will break. Part of my problem I suppose is getting a hard-on every time I get the new issue of "Vette" magazine.

Much appreciated.

 

One more thing,

in re-reading your post- it's not that I don't want to go fast. I have had this LS1 at 170 on a wide open empty highway. I haven't been bitten by the 1/4 mile strip like my brother has. He runs an RT Challenger and he is in a different world.

I am simply torn between top speed and top appearance.

I guess I just want both?

I cant seem to stop eye-balling the "Extreme Wide Body" kit...

I think you have me all figured out.

Thanx

 

good deal man do whatever you enjoy

Sounds like you are on your way to having a nice powerful car that you can be proud to sit next to at the next car show

If you want to do something fun to your auto i would go with a shift kit, tranny cooler, 3.75 gears and a stall converter. Choosing the right stall converter is an adventure in itself. Be careful not to make a slush box if you go that route

 

Sounds good to me. That is the route I will go.

What stall converter would YOU recommend?

Sorry I have to ask, but what do you mean by a "slush box?"

 

Im not expert on stall converters

but there are a few different ones and types

2800 i think would be the max i would like maybe 3200

slush box meaning you have to reach 3200 etc.. rpm before you begin to move from a stop. It could be annoying after a while being "slushy" response.

 

Thats not how a high stall convertor works at least in our computer controled cars. It acts normal at light throtal openings and will only stall up when the gas pedal is pushed down.

 

O.K then...

I must now ask: what is the point of a stall converter? What exactly does it do and why would I want it?

I am going to have the shift kit and Billet servo installed. FFP didnt mention anything about the tranny cooler or stall converter.

This is the route I want to go.

Please enlighten me.

 

I think I can help answer most of any questions you may have regarding automatic transmission hydraulics (Shift Kit) is a patented name, but I know what you mean. I'm a transmission re-builder and have owned my own transmission shop for about 20 years. I assume you own a C5 vette and are asking questions about that application. In this instance A (shift kit) is going to include A slightly stiffer pressure regulator spring, making the line pressure 10-20% higher, this is the pressure that holds the clutches and or band on in a given range, there will be modifications to improve cooler/gear-train lube flow, 2-4 servo springs will be removed to hasten band apply, holes in the valve body separator plate will be enlarged to assist in more fluid flow, for faster clutch apply rates, and less solenoid sensitivity, accumulator pistons will be blocked for less travel, accumulator springs will be heavier to slow movement of piston. accumulators are used to soften shifts from the factory, for durability and comfort. NOTE! a harder shifting transmission is often not a stronger transmission. However I feel a little boost on a stock transmission in a performance car is a positive thing, just don't go nuts. One other thing, a (Shift Kit) attempts to do is reduce the amount of overlap on shifts, very little of this going on in a GM transmission though. Overlap is when one set of clutches/band needs to release in-order for the next set of clutches/band to apply. there is a period where both ranges are applied and this is needed for durability, but that time can be reduced. There is quite a few things that can be done to a stock transmission that are nearly free, mostly just the time to do it, gaskets, washers, fluid, etc. If you want know more about this I can help. As far as high stall torque converters are concerned, if the car is a street car, use the lowest stall your cam will allow (High stall converters make your car (feel) slower due to all the slippage built into them, it also softens shift feel. If your car is a drag car the slip in the torque converter equals traction and getting into the power band, built into your engine sooner. But creates massive amounts of heat, but your only going 1/4 mile. I hope, not to many typo problems but I have to go, and could literally spend hours on this. No more time now, but I hope this helps. PS on an electronically controlled transmission a Shift Kit Doesn't change when (RPM/MPH) a transmission shifts.

 

Untill you add your power adders there is no reason to put a "shift kit" in your car. Just have the torque management in your computer programed. Even if you put a higher stall convertor in your car at stock hp levels you do not need a shift kit just the computer tune(and cooler). With the computer you can even change the line pressure at wot to make a firmer shift at wot. why change any of the normal crusining shifting on the car at stock power levels.
One you put your power added on the car then reevaluate what to do with your trans. Depending on your power level you may need more of a build up than just a servo and kit. Like higher friction bands etc. Why would you want to put in a servo at stock power levels? And once you reach the power level of needing a better servo you should put in better bands drums etc.
I wouldnt want to pay to have the servo and kit added now when stock and then in a few months when I add a power adder have the trans pulled and rebuilt again. Twice the labor charge. If you want message me I can give you my phone number. I dont sell anything(unless you need drycleaning ) I just dont want you to spend any extra money with any tuner like I have in the past.
I can not build a trans but I know what is needed for high power levels. Plus I know guys with stock engines and rear gears and convertors who just have the computer reprogramed with nice firm shifts. I have been around these c5 for a few years and hp cars for over 30 and just hate spending extra money on doing something a second time.

 

Excellent information from both of you. The wisdom you shared is not falling on deaf ears.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/basics.html

http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Torq...ter%20Tech.htm

These are also three very informative resources for this topic.

Thanks to BlowaZ and Petercin for elaborating a bit.

"and using boost of anykind will eventually break something on a car. It is an endless cycle of strengthening and fixing if you are actually using the boost." (Knowledgefreak)

The above quote really makes me think hard. With all of the valuable information you have shared, I should be able to make an intelligent decision.

Thanks, Tom.

 

A shift kit does not affect “torque management” which is software programmed into the ECU, retarding engine timing at full throttle too prevent driver train shock, which is the number one cause of Drive Train failure. Don’t remove torque management; just have the torque setting raised to a higher torque setting; you will retain Drive Train protection but, at a higher engine torque setting. The setting on some euro cars can be raise to1000nms of drive train torque. I don’t know if or how high a corvette ECU can be raised, a tuner should know. Don’t use valve body shift kits, soft ware tuning is better and it’s always prudent to increase transmission internal torque holding capacity with any engine performance upgrades.

Choosing the proper stall speed for a torque converter is an art with science behind it. You don’t just chose any number, correct performance stall speed for any car dependents on rear ratio, engine torque, cam profile, car weight and more. A torque converter specialist can help you chose the correct stall speed for your application.

 

Thanks Steve...

An 'art with science behind it.' Now that is scary.

Needing a 'torque converter specialist' also makes me wonder if it's worth it. I had no idea it was such an involved and complicated mod.

Being that the basis of science is factual objectivity and art is entirely SUBJECTIVE...

It does really scare me. It seems I am asking for opposition? I wanted something fun and solid. I don't want to be tinkering around and always trying to tweak my motor and tranny.

Yet.

I understand that part of being a race car driver is the continuous search for speed and efficiency, but I suppose I was looking for a quick easy fun and fast (SIMPLE???) mod.

Maybe I am completely offtrack.

I want a faster car, that is a fact. I also want a good looking car. I have the goodlooking car part down,(don't we all?) but maybe I should look for an easier mod?

Hmmmmm...

 

spray it =) fast easy

 

Engine and transmission performance ECU tune would be the best modification money could buy. A lot of tunes are on this forum; See what they have to offer.
.
Which type of racing do you do, manuals transmissions are better for track cars and automatic (¼ mile racing) can transfer, handle more torque. Automatics are for people who are out of control and manuals are for people who are in control.
what is the trick for posting pictures, i used insert Image and nothing shows.