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Electrical Questions (help please)

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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 04:54 PM
  #1  
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Default Electrical Questions (help please)

I bought a 2000 corvette a few weeks ago. Neither of the windows work, and they do not make a clicking sound. The passenger side window and the lock unlock controls do not work either.

Here are the following codes that I have discovered.

99-HVAC u1160 H C
A0-LDCM No Comm.
A1-RDCM No Comm.
A6-SCM No Comm
B0-RFA u1096H
B0-RFA u1064 H
B0-RFA u1016 H
B0-RFA c2110 H

I have already fixed the connection in the tube between the door, so what are some other solutions to get the windows/doors working? I do not hear a clicking sound when pushing the up/down button for the windows.

-thanks
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 05:17 PM
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Read the electrical sticky(s) at the top of C5 tech.

Pay attention to the wiring connectors in the door hinge area. P.S.(never mind - you did this already)
Search terms such as “serial data bus” “serial communications” “serial bus communications” and the like.

Search for posts by “Bill Curlee”.

Check grounds - Bill has an excellent post(s) on the subject.

Last edited by timemender; Nov 24, 2007 at 05:22 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by timemender
Read the electrical sticky(s) at the top of C5 tech.

Pay attention to the wiring connectors in the door hinge area. P.S.(never mind - you did this already)
Search terms such as “serial data bus” “serial communications” “serial bus communications” and the like.

Search for posts by “Bill Curlee”.

Check grounds - Bill has an excellent post(s) on the subject.
I checked the grounds in the engine compartment. Does anyone know where the door control modules are grounded to?
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 05:44 PM
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Sorry I am away from my GM manuals. (A "MUST have" with this car.)

Have you taken the connectors apart and carefully inspected each and every pin for tightness and freedom from corrosion? (Please, Not trying to insult you but some people don’t realize how important it is to be meticulous in this step)

All fuses OK? Both fuse boxes - in passenger foot-well and under the hood next to the battery?
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by timemender
Sorry I am away from my GM manuals. (A "MUST have" with this car.)

Have you taken the connectors apart and carefully inspected each and every pin for tightness and freedom from corrosion? (Please, Not trying to insult you but some people don’t realize how important it is to be meticulous in this step)

All fuses OK? Both fuse boxes - in passenger foot-well and under the hood next to the battery?
I checked all of the fuses, and they looked ok. Tomorow I am going to inspect the pins of the grounds and inside the doors for tightness/corrosion.

When I apply pressure to the passenger side foot well (I/P fuse box area) with my feet, the windows temporarily worked. Is this a coincidence, or is there a connection there that is related to the window controls? How do I access the back of the I/P fuse box, because I think that one of the wires may be loose.
-thanks
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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The door locks and windows originate from the I/P fuse box and the BCM. Both are located in the passenger foot well. It sounds like you have located the problem. I would check all BCM connectos, also it is really hard to locate a blown fuse in the I/P fuse box with out pulling each fuse an inspecting it. Check fuses 30,31,33,and 34.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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This is what I am referring to above concerning the proper inspection and repair of electrical connectors. (To all forum readers)

From Bill Curlee:

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Anyone who is having problems with intermittent wheel speed sensor issues and any electrical issue that comes and goes, needs to inspect all the electrical connectors in the circuit that have female pins. The female pins that GM uses in most of their connectors have bad habbit of relaxing and become unstable. The small spring tab inside that grips male pin bends and if you insert a male pin in the female pin, you will find out that it will literaly just fall out. If the female pin is good, you will have to extract it with some force.

I disassembled a bad emergency flasher a while back and kept the male pins for testing female pins. Here is a picture of the male pin:





Here is a very good example of what a good and bad female pin looks like The BAD connector is on the right:



A new connector is on the left!

BC
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