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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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Default Need Help Brakes

I知 trying to install my rotors and pads but I知 having trouble taking the caliper bracket off, I知 assuming you turn the 21mm bolts counter clockwise or is it backwards. Thanks, Albert.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 03redzo6
I’m trying to install my rotors and pads but I’m having trouble taking the caliper bracket off, I’m assuming you turn the 21mm bolts counter clockwise or is it backwards. Thanks, Albert.
all the threads are normal and the bake system is very similar to thousands of brakes out there. if your having a problem you better get a manual!

you do not need to remove the big 125 lb mounting bolts just unbolt the 2 sliders and pull them out and the pads fall off!
they require 23 ftlbs of torque and use a little loctite and brake grease on the pins

Last edited by rustyguns; Dec 1, 2007 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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Hi 03redzo6 -

The caliper mounting bracket bolts are have red locktite on them from the factory, and are a high torque application (125 ft lbs).

I just completed installing new rotors and pads today on my Z.

I used a craftsman 1/2" drive ratchet, and impact socket, and a cheater bar on the upper rears, and just a craftsman breaker bar and socket on all the others - just takes a lot of torque.

They are standard threads, not reversed.

best regards -

mqqn

Last edited by mqqn; Dec 1, 2007 at 07:15 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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Unless you eat a lot of spinach, you'll need an impact gun!!!

Depending on the size of your gun, you will also need a 12 inch extenstion and a swivel socket.


al
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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If your removing the "ROTORS" YES,,,,,,you have to temove the caliper brackets! There on with red locktight and if you use an electric heat gun it will make them break free a little easier. Yep,,,,you will need a 1/2" socket set/breaker bar. Its tough but lefty loosey is the correct direction!

BC
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If your removing the "ROTORS" YES,,,,,,you have to temove the caliper brackets! There on with red locktight and if you use an electric heat gun it will make them break free a little easier. Yep,,,,you will need a 1/2" socket set/breaker bar. Its tough but lefty loosey is the correct direction!

BC

You better eat your wheaties or use an impact like I did to get those guys loose.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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thanks guys for all your help, finally got it done. that was by far the hardest install i have ever done, it took us about close to 4 hours to install everything and bleed the system. but know i have another problem, my battery died.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:53 PM
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Hi Albert -

I am happy to hear that you got it done. I actully thought the C5 was a pretty easy brake job. You'll be much quicker next time I am sure.

That sucks about the battery - these cars are notoriously hard on batteries in my experience.

I am just wondering why you had to bleed the brake system if you were doing rotors and pads?

best regards

mqqn
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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well i was told that its always best to bleed the system after the install because pushing in the pistons creates air inside the lines.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:59 PM
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plus im going to the california speed way tomorrow for the roval, so i put in some fresh fluid to.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 11:46 PM
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Hi Albert -

Good luck at the track -

I had not heard that about pushing the pistons back into the calipers.

We had about 1/4 inch of freezing rain here today, so I will have to wait for a few days before I can get the car back out to try out my new rotors and pads and Toyo Proxis.

best regards -

mqqn
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 03redzo6
well i was told that its always best to bleed the system after the install because pushing in the pistons creates air inside the lines.

it does not
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 03redzo6
well i was told that...............pushing in the pistons creates air inside the lines.
That's physically not possible. Air can't be created that's not already there.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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I agree about the air but a better way to push the pistons back in is to open the bleed valve and then push them back in. That way the nasty fluid gets out instead of back in the system. Thats how I'm doing mine from now on. Those BPMVs are very sensitive to dirt!

BC
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I agree about the air but a better way to push the pistons back in is to open the bleed valve and then push them back in. That way the nasty fluid gets out instead of back in the system. Thats how I'm doing mine from now on. Those BPMVs are very sensitive to dirt!

BC
I've yet to change pads on my vette, but on other vehicles I use this method as well. Plus, I attach one of those cheap "one man brake bleeder" bottles to keep from making a mess.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I agree about the air but a better way to push the pistons back in is to open the bleed valve and then push them back in. That way the nasty fluid gets out instead of back in the system. Thats how I'm doing mine from now on. Those BPMVs are very sensitive to dirt!
BC
Bill, there are flex line hose clamps available that stop any fluid (and dirt that might be in it) going back to the ABS unit when pushing pistons back. I saw a mechanic use one a few months ago. He applied the clamp, unscrewed the bleeder and pushed the piston back. I've no idea where to get one though. He got his from a seminar put on by a pad maker.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:23 AM
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Now that I went ot Wilwood setup it is only 2 11mm nuts that need to come out to remove the caliper, but I remember the weekends of changing rotors on stock calipers at the track. I could rush it done in 15 mins.

I found that a breaker bar is your friend when you do not have air tools.

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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rustyguns
all the threads are normal and the bake system is very similar to thousands of brakes out there. if your having a problem you better get a manual!

:
Could have saved yourself some time here having a manual. Rotor replacement does not require bleeding the brakes.

Have fun a the track
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 02:33 PM
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FYI, I bought a vacuum brake bleeder from Harbor Freight which was cheap and effective to avoid that mess when bleeding or pushing the pistons back in w/ bleed valve open.
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