When I get on her hard, (meaning pedal to the medal all the way to redline) I notice that afterwards my clutch pedal seems mushy; like when I go to shift into the next gear instead of it springing back up like normal, it does not spring all the way, just half way. However as I continue to drive it goes back to normal. Its like the fluid has to build back up. Anyone else experience this?
01 mn6 pewt

 

there are a lot of post on this. Some have had success with clutch fluid changes. I had to replace clutch/pressure plate and slave/bearing with aftermarket parts. your mod's if any usually will dictate what level of replacement is required.
Do a search in the C5 tech area you will get all you need to know

 

Thanks Mr Jones..

 

Check out this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1881345

 

Bleed the clutch good to start with. You can try what is referred to as the "Ranger Method" first and see if that helps. It is the easiest. Progressively harder is to bleed from below through the bleeder. If that doesn't do it, your clutch is likely getting tired.

 

I have the same problem. It started after I put in my heads and cam. I tried Ranger's method which has worked for some, but not for me I've been told it's either an issue with the pressure plate(due to my increased hp) or the slave. Somebody recently drilled out the slave line and that fixed the prob. Others replaced the entire cluch, master, and slave and that fixed the problem. I'd like to just drill out the line and see if that works but you have to drop out the drivetrain of the car, which is why many have replaced just the clutch while it's all out. If I was real handy, I might do the labor myself trying the drill mod and save the money on buying a new clutch and see if that worked. But paying someone, I don't want to have to pay that expensive labor twice!!!

 

Hi JAGUARXJR,

Clutch pedal woes are common among cars with LS-X motors. The place to start is following the steps laid out here: Maintaining Your Clutch

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Ranger

 

I gotta publicly thank Ranger for this tip. My 2000 took an entire can (used DOT 4), but I got it clean. Then I took it out and drove it and found that it clouded up again, so I changed it one more time. I'll check it again in about a week or so, and do it again if I have to, but it's a simple, cheap procedure that must be done. I don't race or track my car and the fluid was BLACK and thick. I doubt that it had ever been done.

 

I tried the Ranger method but never got it clean. I removed the slave cylinder and found it to be toast (bushing inside was broken down and making the fluid turn black). It was a good excuse to upgrade to the new release TB/slave anyways (bigger diamter bearing and larger hole in hydraulic line). I also put in high temp 500-600 degree fluid.... So far so good!

 

It says use only DOT 3 on the cap, but I took a chance and used DOT 4...hope I don't regret it. I'm taking the car on a trip in January.

 

You can use whatever you want. Make sure you don't mix DOT 5 with 3/4 though. Only upgrade to high temp when you change the parts out. 3 and 4 can mix fine though.

 

I only use DOT5 in my Harley brake system.

 

Had the same exact problem and all I did was change the fluid and the problem went away. Good Luck!

 

Hey are you telling me that GM has FINALLY made new TB/Slave cylinders??
If yes could you give me any more specifics on ordering these improved parts.
This pedal "droop" has been driving me nuts.I must have changed fluid 25 plus times. Switched to high performance DOT 4 Racing High Temp fluid. Removed the pedal spring.
End Result--- I still have to baby the car or the pedal becomes a candidate for Viagra.
I knew I would need buck up for new clutch, slave Etc.[despite the fact that the clutch does not slip one bit--you just can't shift] but I had even read of guys doing this and still having the same problem.
It seemed unbelievable that GM would not be addressing such a common issue.A poll on ZO6Vette.com has FORTY FIVE percent of owners either currently experiencing this problem or already having work done to correct it.
You are the first person that I know of to indicate that a NEW part/redesign has been fabricated by the factory.
I am most interested in further info on this matter.
Santa bring me a stiff clutch pedal !!!

 

Just order a slave for a 2004 Z06 and you will automatically get the new one. It is the same design as the C6 and C6Z but with line connections that fit our cars. Yes, there is a new one out compared to what came stock.

Your actual clutch is most likely ok but if you pull it out when changing your slave and you need a new one, I can't say enough good things about the centerforce dual friction. good luck! btw, my MC is still original. the slave is what breaks down in the heat.....

 

gene-00,

From your profile it seems like your motor is near stock in power. If that's the case, then a stock clutch and hydraulics should work OK, as they have for tens of thousands of other owners. But read on, please.

Clutch pedal woes adversely effect manual-tranny LS-X equipped cars across many platforms including C5 and C6 Corvettes. Changes to the hydraulics over the years has not cured the fundamental issue, which remains that the clutch actuator (slave) is inside an unvented bell housing. There, during aggressive driving, it is subjected to (1) intense heat and (2) doses of very fine clutch dust that gets squeegeed into the fluid during clutch actuation. That hostile environment degrades the behavior of the clutch unless the fluid is kept fresh and clean via consistent changes.

If fluid changes are not performed through months or years of aggressive driving, pedal woes emerge. They usually, but not always, can be cured via swaps of the clutch fluid. In some cases, damage to the seals in the master cylinder or slave has already occurred. That damage is brought about by the abrasive action of dirty fluid on the seals and accumulation of particulate (principally clutch dust).

Once that happens, the solution involves changing parts, unfortunately.

The enduring lesson is to keep the clutch fluid clean from delivery onward.

If you do need to swap parts, it's best to start with just the master cylinder, which is the cheapest element to replace and may be the root issue.

Ranger