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Do you have a picture of this NEW Alternator??? I wonder if its better than the old Valeo types.
BC
Hey Bill, not sure that it is any better. I'll see if I can find some pics. The biggest difference is there are 3 diodes that must be disconnected. This are tack welded to the regulator and are in addition to the 3 main leads coming from the stator. They must be undone in order to remove the regulator from the housing. I press them out so I can chrome the bodies and press them back in for reassembly. If an alternator is simply being taken apart for a rebuild they would not need to be removed from the body unless of course one of them needs to be replaced. I know I should have a pic somewhere, I'll see if I can find one.
Do you have a picture of this NEW Alternator??? I wonder if its better than the old Valeo types.
BC
I got the new ALT in and it says valeo on it is that a brand or a type of altinator. Anywho I got the battery on a charger in a couple hours I will fire her up. Man was it a PITA to get the new on on those spacer deal on the bracket that holds the altinator took some finagaling.
Well started it up and sure enough CHARGE SYSTEM FUALT went and bought a voltemeter and battery reads 11.1-ish then but the red needle on the altinator wire and the other on the hood latch and nothing no volts what so ever. Did I do this correctly and if soo does this mean I have a bad wire? I took the fuel rail cover off and it looks like the wire goes from the alt the slpits into connectore for the MAFS then something else that goes down towards the intake and a third that goes along the driver side bank of spark plugs wires, as well as a tiny wire I cant seem to figue out where it goes somewhere down the front of the engine. I'm so frustrated and pissed off right now. If it isnt one thing it's another with this car. First the rear main seal, than the clutch, then it got broken into, and now this. I just want my car to frigging work.
Well started it up and sure enough CHARGE SYSTEM FUALT went and bought a voltemeter and battery reads 11.1-ish then but the red needle on the altinator wire and the other on the hood latch and nothing no volts what so ever. Did I do this correctly and if soo does this mean I have a bad wire? I took the fuel rail cover off and it looks like the wire goes from the alt the slpits into connectore for the MAFS then something else that goes down towards the intake and a third that goes along the driver side bank of spark plugs wires, as well as a tiny wire I cant seem to figue out where it goes somewhere down the front of the engine. I'm so frustrated and pissed off right now. If it isnt one thing it's another with this car. First the rear main seal, than the clutch, then it got broken into, and now this. I just want my car to frigging work.
Had a mechanic buddy come over, measured resistance between the altinator and the battery is .2 ohms, the battery was a tiny bit low on watter so we added some watter and it's sitting on the charger out of the car.
Not sure if anyone suggested it, but have you checked your starter? You should check it out. That was my problem when i got the "Charge System Fault" error code. One of my wires on my starter corroded and i as pulled at it, it just came right off . Doesn't hurt to try
Not sure if anyone suggested it, but have you checked your starter? You should check it out. That was my problem when i got the "Charge System Fault" error code. One of my wires on my starter corroded and i as pulled at it, it just came right off . Doesn't hurt to try
I was thinking that, it doesn't seem to have an issue starting but ya never know.
Ok so when the negative cable goes on I get some minor sparking according to a mechanic friend this means there is a short somewhere? I am lead to believe perhaps faulty wiring on the starter could that be discharging the battery?
Ok so when the negative cable goes on I get some minor sparking according to a mechanic friend this means there is a short somewhere? I am lead to believe perhaps faulty wiring on the starter could that be discharging the battery?
Joe
NO!!!! The C5 "always" draws current. Especially when you first connect the cable. The BCM powers up a lot of stuff. As it monitors the car, if it determines that the car isn't being used, it will drop off the current draw down to 25 milliamps. When you first attach the cable the BCM is allowing the car to draw approx 5-8 amps depending on what you have on. If the door is open, hood open ect,,,
The 25 milliamps is the key to long static battery life. You need to conduct a battery current draw test! Thats the ONLY way your going to be able to see if your drawing excessive current when the car is in the sleep mode.