Headlight Issue


Subject: Left Headlamp Door Does Not Stay Closed (Shim Headlamp Door Motor/Actuator and Replace Insulators)
Model Year: 2000 Chevrolet Corvette
Condition
Some customers may comment that the left front headlamp door does not remain closed after the headlamps are turned off. Others may comment that the left headlamp door closes when the headlamps are turned off, but then reopens. In either case, the right headlamp door operates properly.
Correction
Important
The following information applies to the left front headlamp door motor/actuator only. It does not apply to and should not be performed on the right front headlamp door motor/actuator.
Install one washer (2) between the left headlamp door motor/actuator (1) and the mounting bracket (3) at each of the three attaching bolt locations. Also replace the
insulator (4) on each of the two mounting bracket travel stop tabs (5) as shown. For information on headlamp motor/actuator removal, see the Headlamp Motor/Actuator
Replacement procedure in the Lighting sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty Per Vehicle
11505463 Washer 3
16524060 Insulator 2
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=headlight
see the link for a picture. Good luck.
Subject: Left Headlamp Door Does Not Stay Closed (Shim Headlamp Door Motor/Actuator and Replace Insulators)
Model Year: 2000 Chevrolet Corvette
Condition
Some customers may comment that the left front headlamp door does not remain closed after the headlamps are turned off. Others may comment that the left headlamp door closes when the headlamps are turned off, but then reopens. In either case, the right headlamp door operates properly.
Correction
Important
The following information applies to the left front headlamp door motor/actuator only. It does not apply to and should not be performed on the right front headlamp door motor/actuator.
Install one washer (2) between the left headlamp door motor/actuator (1) and the mounting bracket (3) at each of the three attaching bolt locations. Also replace the
insulator (4) on each of the two mounting bracket travel stop tabs (5) as shown. For information on headlamp motor/actuator removal, see the Headlamp Motor/Actuator
Replacement procedure in the Lighting sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty Per Vehicle
11505463 Washer 3
16524060 Insulator 2
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=headlight
see the link for a picture. Good luck.
The first time I was just lazy and replaced only the stopper. About three months later, I had to do it all over again with the washers. I would suggest doing both the washers and stopper.
I ordered a metal gear kit to repair the assembly from a guy on e-Bay. The repair involved removing the motor assembly. It is something of a PITA but can be done from the top side.
The motor is sealed in a plastic housing and you have to literally crack it open. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. When gluing it back together the kit instructions say the glue is adequate to hold the two parts together but mine cracked apart after a few weeks. I took it down again and drilled holes through the edges of the plastic case parts at about a 45 degree angle. I then ran aircraft safety wire (pretty much any small diameter steel wire will work) through the holes, twisted it to lock the plastic parts in place and reglued with epoxy.
It has been inservice for two years now with no further problem.
Post mortem of the old gear showed discoloration of the plastic where two of the cogs had broken off. Not sure why it discolored. The gear kit was about $35.00. The replacement motor from the dealer was around $600.00 and they would have to order it.





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I then dug my hole deeper with one of TBYRNE's late, unlamanted, infernal HID kits. But in the 8-hour process of rewiring and installing the new harnesses discoverd a critical ground point low down on the passenger side. I dutifully removed the lead, scuffed and cleaned the tip of the lead, plastic clip and mounting point with isopropyl alcohol, applied battery anti-corrosive, buttoned her back up, and sure enough, my problem was solved.
(BTW, those HIDs are fantastic, but what a pain in the [expletive] to get them installed and working "right," with both the HID lows illuminating along with the halogen highs when the high beams are selected. Unfortunately for those of us with gray hair and diminished night vision, Tom Byrne, who is a great guy standing behind a reputable business and great products, pulled these lights from his catalog in the face of complaints and frustration with wiring and installation issues. )
This may not be the silver bullet for your particular version of Popeye, but it can't hurt. And this step may be prophylactic against future electrical problems with your lights. I actually did the same procedure on every ground point I coulld find (and reach) while I was at it, investing more than 2 hours in the exercise, following the lead of another astute Forum member way, way above my shade-tree paygrade.
Good luck.




