Torque Converter next mod?
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From: Argyle Tx.
St. Jude Donor '08
Torque Converter next mod?
I just did a Dyno tune today with my 02 A4 and got 329.4 rwhp and 343.9 torque. My mods are only cold air intake, LT headers, x-pipe and cat back exhaust. My questions are- Would a torque converter be the next mod? What kind should I get? How much am I looking to spend? What kind of improvements should I see from this? Finally, is this a DIY job? Thanks to everyone 
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From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
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From: Argyle Tx.
St. Jude Donor '08
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From: Chicago-NW Burbs Illinois
First off great numbers! I would say a torque convertor would be a great idea for your next mod. It is probably the best mod you can do for the money to an A4. Expect to shave about .5 off your 1/4 mile times traction permitting. I would say get some gears while your at it if your budget allows. I'm running a Yank SS3600 w/3:73's and love it. Yank or Vig are awesome convertors and I wouldn't go lower then a 3200 stall IMO. You'll get used to the stall real quick and won't even notice it's there after a while untill you hit the go pedal. I had mine istalled at a shop when I had other mods installed but the average is $400 if you have a shop do it or if you have access to a lift and some tools can do it yourself but then need to program it after.
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From: Argyle Tx.
St. Jude Donor '08
First off great numbers! I would say a torque convertor would be a great idea for your next mod. It is probably the best mod you can do for the money to an A4. Expect to shave about .5 off your 1/4 mile times traction permitting. I would say get some gears while your at it if your budget allows. I'm running a Yank SS3600 w/3:73's and love it. Yank or Vig are awesome convertors and I wouldn't go lower then a 3200 stall IMO. You'll get used to the stall real quick and won't even notice it's there after a while untill you hit the go pedal. I had mine istalled at a shop when I had other mods installed but the average is $400 if you have a shop do it or if you have access to a lift and some tools can do it yourself but then need to program it after.
Ok, so you do need a tune after the install?
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From: Flagstaff Az.
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From: Argyle Tx.
St. Jude Donor '08
maybe ill wait and do both at the same time.
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Burning Brakes
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HI JesSe !
Nice numbers ! The short answer is "yes" do the verter & gears while U R at it. My set up is'nt for everyone but, I have DTE 3.90's and a Vig 2800 stall. The combo is pretty wild but I only drive the car about 700-1000 miles per year. Gear & converter swaps really wake these cars up..Oh, don't forget a trans. cooler when you make the change
Nice numbers ! The short answer is "yes" do the verter & gears while U R at it. My set up is'nt for everyone but, I have DTE 3.90's and a Vig 2800 stall. The combo is pretty wild but I only drive the car about 700-1000 miles per year. Gear & converter swaps really wake these cars up..Oh, don't forget a trans. cooler when you make the change
Melting Slicks
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From: Simpsonville SC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Great Numbers!
I just had my 99 A4 dyno'ed yesterday too. I recently installed AR long-tube headers, X-pipe, hi-flow cats, and a Vararam intake system.
Before the mods: 275 HP, 277 torque.
After the mods: 307 HP, 320 torque.
I guess the differences are the different dynos. Mine was done an a mobile Dynojet both times.
I just had my 99 A4 dyno'ed yesterday too. I recently installed AR long-tube headers, X-pipe, hi-flow cats, and a Vararam intake system.
Before the mods: 275 HP, 277 torque.
After the mods: 307 HP, 320 torque.
I guess the differences are the different dynos. Mine was done an a mobile Dynojet both times.
Le Mans Master
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From: Hillsboro OR
First off great numbers! I would say a torque convertor would be a great idea for your next mod. It is probably the best mod you can do for the money to an A4. Expect to shave about .5 off your 1/4 mile times traction permitting. I would say get some gears while your at it if your budget allows. I'm running a Yank SS3600 w/3:73's and love it. Yank or Vig are awesome convertors and I wouldn't go lower then a 3200 stall IMO. You'll get used to the stall real quick and won't even notice it's there after a while untill you hit the go pedal. I had mine istalled at a shop when I had other mods installed but the average is $400 if you have a shop do it or if you have access to a lift and some tools can do it yourself but then need to program it after.
To the OP:
I (and two friends) using a lift, did it in just over a day. It is a lot of work. Your choice if you want to do it or have somone else install it. I am glad I didn't go any higher than a 2800 stall. It is my DD and didn't want to get used to the slip of a higher stall.
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From: Chicago-NW Burbs Illinois
My car has always been an A4. It might take a few more RPM's to get the car moving but I don't notice any "slip" that you mentioned or could be that im so used to it it's normal to me know
.
.Curious, do you have an A4 or MN6? I am running a set of 3:42's and a Yank 2800 Stall in my 03 A4 Coupe. I feel an occassional, yet very minor slip at low rpms (leaving a stop sign). I love the "kick in the azz" feel it gives you when you stomp the loud pedal.
To the OP:
I (and two friends) using a lift, did it in just over a day. It is a lot of work. Your choice if you want to do it or have somone else install it. I am glad I didn't go any higher than a 2800 stall. It is my DD and didn't want to get used to the slip of a higher stall.
To the OP:
I (and two friends) using a lift, did it in just over a day. It is a lot of work. Your choice if you want to do it or have somone else install it. I am glad I didn't go any higher than a 2800 stall. It is my DD and didn't want to get used to the slip of a higher stall.
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From: Argyle Tx.
St. Jude Donor '08
not to sure what you guys mean by slip. What happens during this so called slip? This car is also my DD, how high of a stall should I go with?
Burning Brakes
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From: Lakemoor IL
Le Mans Master
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From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
I have an A6 or is it a MN4 ??? LOL-----
Acually mine is a 2800 stall & I love it--One of the best mods I've done--did a 3.42 at the same time--all at home in the garage on jackstands
For a D/D the 2800 is great---I'm sure a 3000-3600 is a bit faster and leaves harder--but i already have traction issues with the 2800 and safety wise it just might keep me out of the weeds on some rainy night
Acually mine is a 2800 stall & I love it--One of the best mods I've done--did a 3.42 at the same time--all at home in the garage on jackstands
For a D/D the 2800 is great---I'm sure a 3000-3600 is a bit faster and leaves harder--but i already have traction issues with the 2800 and safety wise it just might keep me out of the weeds on some rainy night
Melting Slicks
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From: pawleys island sc
If you've got "slip" you've got a problem. If the TC is initially feels "loose', that's normal. "Slipping" is a term that is usually used to refer to the trani and can be an indication that you lower bands are gooing. The term "loose" is usually used to discrib the different SOP feeling you get the first few times you drive the car after the TC install. THe bigger (higher stall) the TC the looser it feels. So what's this "loose" feel like? Basically when you first drive the car to get it moving it feels like you have to give the car more gas pedel than you had to give it before you installed the TC - almost like there's a dead spot in the first few millimeters of gas pedel travel. But once you over come that small "gas pedel offset" the car jumps off the line a lot quicker than it did. It takes a few days for your right foot to get coordinated with your a$$, then it feels natural and you don't even remember how "slugish" the car used to feel.
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From: Argyle Tx.
St. Jude Donor '08
If you've got "slip" you've got a problem. If the TC is initially feels "loose', that's normal. "Slipping" is a term that is usually used to refer to the trani and can be an indication that you lower bands are gooing. The term "loose" is usually used to discrib the different SOP feeling you get the first few times you drive the car after the TC install. THe bigger (higher stall) the TC the looser it feels. So what's this "loose" feel like? Basically when you first drive the car to get it moving it feels like you have to give the car more gas pedel than you had to give it before you installed the TC - almost like there's a dead spot in the first few millimeters of gas pedel travel. But once you over come that small "gas pedel offset" the car jumps off the line a lot quicker than it did. It takes a few days for your right foot to get coordinated with your a$$, then it feels natural and you don't even remember how "slugish" the car used to feel.