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How do you know the clutch is fully disengaging? I have installed a new ram clutch, Ram adjustable Master Along with a new Trans :-)
It shifts fine at Low RPM shifts now during the break in period... but read all about "properly adjusted master" How do i Know when it is properly adjusted????? Trans builder told me last trans syncros were shot because he thinks the clutch was not properly disengaging at High RPM shifts ....
I herd of this trick but would like other opinions...
Trans Warm
In Neutral
Motor at 2K 2.5K RPM
Push clutch in rapidly and push shifter in to Reverse...
If properly adjusted it should go right into reverse IF not adjusted it will take a few seconds for it to go into reverse...
Just need to know how to "Know" its properly adjusted
How do you know the clutch is fully disengaging? I have installed a new ram clutch, Ram adjustable Master Along with a new Trans :-)
It shifts fine at Low RPM shifts now during the break in period... but read all about "properly adjusted master" How do i Know when it is properly adjusted????? Trans builder told me last trans syncros were shot because he thinks the clutch was not properly disengaging at High RPM shifts ....
I herd of this trick but would like other opinions...
Trans Warm
In Neutral
Motor at 2K 2.5K RPM
Push clutch in rapidly and push shifter in to Reverse...
If properly adjusted it should go right into reverse IF not adjusted it will take a few seconds for it to go into reverse...
Just need to know how to "Know" its properly adjusted
Note that when you push clutch, the main axle of trans still continues rotating for a while (and I guess if you have good bearings and good oil, it will rotate longer) so it could depend also on transmission condition how easy it is to shift to Reverse. You can see this "effect" if you push clutch, then first shift to e.g. 4th (=> easy to shift because not so big difference in rotating speed and main axle stops rotating) and then shift to reverse. Most often you can faster shift to reverse if you first shift to some other gear and then reverse, instead of just shifting reverse. This is based on my experience with other manual transmissions, from Corvette's trans I don't know enough to be sure
Trans Warm
Neutral
Idle and up
Push in clutch Push into first quickly and car will move forward ....
So not sure if this is normal... or i need to work on clutch more
You are probably feeling the car move slightly due to the spinning inertial of all the parts behind the clutch. Even though the clutch is disengaged, the parts that where downstream of the clutch are still turning for a little while, so if you jam it into 1st gear instantly after disengaging the clutch you might feel a slight jolt.
If your clutch wasn't disengaging all the way, it would jolt (and maybe move even more) going into 1st gear no matter how long the clutch pedal was down.
You are probably feeling the car move slightly due to the spinning inertial of all the parts behind the clutch. Even though the clutch is disengaged, the parts that where downstream of the clutch are still turning for a little while, so if you jam it into 1st gear instantly after disengaging the clutch you might feel a slight jolt.
If your clutch wasn't disengaging all the way, it would jolt (and maybe move even more) going into 1st gear no matter how long the clutch pedal was down.
Great Point..... Makes 100% sense ......
Now just looking for someone to chime in saying how to ensure its adjusted properly...
As far as making sure your clutch is adjusted correctly, I'd start by making sure there was about 1/4 inch of free play at the pedal. Did the new system come with any instructions on how to adjust properly?
As far as making sure your clutch is adjusted correctly, I'd start by making sure there was about 1/4 inch of free play at the pedal. Did the new system come with any instructions on how to adjust properly?
I do not have any free play at the end... If you move the clutch the rod is moving just as much...
I do not have any free play at the end... If you move the clutch the rod is moving just as much...
The free play on a hydraulic clutch system is sometimes tricky to determine IMO. Open the door and get down and depress the clutch pedal with your hand. Slowly depress the pedal, and try and feel when the resistance starts to change. Using your hand makes it easier to determine.
I believe the free play between the clutch pedal push rod and the hydraulic plunger on the master cylinder is what really determines the pedal free play. Not sure what the GM manual says on how to adjust it .. would have to dig it out and look.
I blew the dust of the manual and looked for the clutch pedal free play adjustment. They don't really address it specifically, but they do talk about a "Clutch Pressure Plate Adjustment", which I'm thinking is what ultimately gives the system some slight free play.
If you have an aftermarket pressure plate, not sure how they address this adjustment.
I don't know any details how much you should have free play, but basically if you don't have free play at all, then the clutch might even slide, but if you have too much free play, then you might have problem that it doesn't disengage enough. So, if you currently don't have any free play, then you shouldn't have any disengaging problems And it should be very easy to see if clutch is sliding even a little if you push gas in 5th or 6th gear in relatively low speeds
Well when i push the peddle its never eases up.... it is the same tension all the way down I was kinda hopeing for the compound bow feel... tight tight pull then easy at then end.