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C5 headlight bulb replacement?

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Old 06-11-2014, 09:01 PM   #21
Joelbbvette
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Default Headlights

I went the European route, if you find a set of the right hand drive versions and wiring harness adapter, go with them. Glass instead of plastic housings, single bulb with a 50W Low and 80W (or so) high beam. Have been running them for years with no problem and the glass won't haze over time. Of course finding all this these days will not be easy.

Joel
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:32 AM   #22
john8642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelbbvette View Post
I went the European route, if you find a set of the right hand drive versions and wiring harness adapter, go with them. Glass instead of plastic housings, single bulb with a 50W Low and 80W (or so) high beam. Have been running them for years with no problem and the glass won't haze over time. Of course finding all this these days will not be easy.

Joel

They are available, but expensive (500-600.pr). Here is the part numbers for e-spec, right hand drive lens housings.
The E-code head lights were:
16524063 driver’s E-code headlamp housing w/H4 55W bulb
16524064 passenger’s E-code headlamp housing w/H4 55W bulb

They’re $258.07 each, so that’s the price to beat for new OEM. If you use another source for these headlights BE SURE YOU’RE ORDERING RH LIGHTS. I doubt that a website would transpose parts numbers with their E-code lights, but just in case, this is a warning:

There are two different sets of “E-code” lights—lights for England and Japan (Left Hand Rule [of the road]) and “everywhere else” (which is Right Hand [rule of the road]). The light patterns thrown by these housings make a BIG difference because they are asymmetrical; they’re neither like HID nor US-halogen patterns. LH lights in the USA will definitely get you ticketed and you’ll probably be forced to replace them.

If you upgrade to 90/100W H4 bulbs, you’ll need to buy an adapter harness. I got mine here:
http://www.pfyc.com/VT1003.html

Here's a thread with good information about the e-spec lights:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...t-upgrade.html
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:56 PM   #23
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Default Silverstars still going strong after over 6 years

Couldn't believe I saw my post of over 6 years ago on a current thread.
Put the Silverstars in just the low beams as most driving around Washington DC is with Low beams. Using the low beams with the 50 W 885 driving lights is normally sufficient. When I do use the high beams the standard ones are fine as I am not lighting up an airport runway.
If you live in Arizona or Wyoming I am sure HID makes sense but in the mostly streetlamped city and suburban environment the Silverstars are fine. Mine look as bright as when I put them in eons ago.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:31 AM   #24
Ge2002
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Default So much easier

I found that by taking off the headlight covers (45seconds each with 4 torx screws)there was much more room even for my hands (which are big enough to palm a basketball). The bulb holders need to be fully inserted and when are locked into place at an angle, the bottom where the wires come out is at about 5:00 on the right, 7:00 on the left. Naturally both sides couldn't be the same, too logical. After a lot of time and expanding my vocabulary trying to get them right, removing the covers let me do the job in less than 5 minutes a side with no nasty thoughts towards GM designers. Almost.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:02 PM   #25
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Inspired by you guys, I just went out and replaced my low beams :-)

I did find it a lot easier to remove the body-color "cover" for additional room. I would only add that, before removal, one should check for headlight cover alignment with the hood and front fascia. With the cover off, one can adjust the little screws and pads, and easily adjust any mis-alignment issues.

BTW, these are $19 after rebate at Amazon: GE NIGHTHAWK PLATINUM bulbs, low-beam here
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UX7INM/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UX7INM/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:29 PM   #26
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I agree. After removing the black shroud held on by 3 Phillips screw around its perimeter, and then the body colored top cover by the tex screws around its perimeter, you can much easier access the bulbs as well as the other headlight parts.

And as noted, you can align the way the body colored cover sits in the opening when closed by moving it slightly before tightening up the cover screws.

From the first time I changed out the bulbs (2 hours plus and lots of swear words) to doing it this way I think it's half the time when all is said and done, especially if you have big hands in a little space!!!
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:54 PM   #27
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It also helps to remove the threaded hood stops at the front of the engine compartment.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:39 AM   #28
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I was going to do the HID upgrade... Until I found out it wasn't a plug and play.

Ended up doing the 9005 to 9011, 9006 to 9012 and 50watt swap.

Much brighter, easy swap.

Did it from the top, took about 1 1/2 hrs not in a big hurry.
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