I was looking at my motor getting ready to pull the plugs and put new ones in and replace the wires and they all seem fairly easy except for the ones on each side against the firewall how the hell do you get to them?

 

Should be no issue provided you have the right tools i.e. 3/8" rachet, extensions, universal, and of course......spark plug socket.

Helps if you have some tight fitting mechanics gloves to save the knuckles, but that's about it.

Good luck.

 

I found it helpful to remove the rubber hoses on the AIR fitting. There are two, one that goes towards the rear of the motor and the other goes under the power brake booster. Give you a little more finger room. The right tools definitely help. Its not as bad as it looks, I actually had a harder time getting the wires off than swapping the plugs.

 

Here is an oldie but a goody
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1635176

 

Oh and by the way, if you have big hands/knuckles, it's darn near impossible to get the last one without the correct tools

 

I've been maintaining a 428CJ powered Mustang (the GT500 in the avatar to the left) for about 32 years, so the C5 wasn't a big deal. Right tools is spot-on. There's a Snap-On "wobbler" spark plug socket that makes it easier.

Pulling the cables is the trick. If you get them off without damage, use a little silicon grease (dielectric "tune-up" grease) to seal them and make them easier to remove later.

A leftover trick from the 428CJ was to use a piece of fuel line, slipped onto the plug insulator, as a handle to start the thing. Use a little of the tune-up grease to slip it onto the plug, to ease getting it off after you have the plug started, and use the hose to position and twist the plug - gently - until you get the threads started. And don't forget the anti-sieze, as mentioned elsewhere here. I used the copper conductive anti-sieze, but since the heads are aluminum, may have been better not to. But old habits die hard.

On the 428 in the Mustang body, the back plug on the driver's side is under the brake booster AND the Thermactor (AIR) plumbing. And the middle two on both banks are under that Thermactor pipe and right against the shock towers . So three of them aren't too bad, but five are a bear. On the LS1 in the Y body, I only found the back plug on the driver's side to be much of a challenge. The fuel line helped a lot. (I also cheated and had my daughter start that one - she's a lot more patient than I am, and liked working on Dad's Corvette...)

Good luck, and just take your time. It's not too difficult.

 

I think GM wants you to use oil on the threads.
Not sure why though

 

I'm not familiar with GM requiring oil on the threads, can you tell me where you read this?

 

Copper and aluminum are disimilar metals and might be problem. Does GM recommend a copper anti-sieze? I'm guessing there is something else that could be used with aluminum, but I have been wrong more than once. Personally, I would not use this until confirming that it is OK.

 

If you don't have a wobbler socket, remember that all spark plug sockets come with a hex built into the end you can put a SAE wrench on (5/8"?). I also loosened the AIR tubes just to make some room.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

 

GM doesn't recommend the use of anti-seize as it can affect the torque value if you are using a torque wrench. Since the 'vette uses the crush washer I use the 1/2 to 3/4 turn after seated method, and, using that method the numerical torque value is irrelevant...

As to getting those plugs closest to the firewall, use a double wobble, or two wobbles together. I also too the AIR hose off as well..

 

Are you talking about anti=-sieze maybe?

 

It helps ALOT if you take the coils off also, it gives you alittle more room to get to the plugs