Heres my setup. LS6 heads p/p, LS6 intake manifold p/p, borla cat back, vararam intake, no headers as of yet. I dont have to worry about emissions, but i dont want to big of a cam. Any help is appericated, thanks.

 

your wasting your money unless you get headers.Headers first,then cam.

 

But do both you'll feel and hear a big difference.

 

Headers are definitely going to help your project, you'll definietly need them with a cam to get the most out of it and the tune. Is your car an Auto or Manual? If it's an Auto, are you planning on a converter? That's going to determine the size of the cam you can go with. Good all around cams are the 224/224 .588/.588 or 228/228 .595/.595 cams. Personally I like the LG Motorsports G5x3 cam, but some would consider that a "big" cam. I consider it on the larger side of streetable. The F13 is a good cam as well, that I've seen good results with that would be inbetween the 228/228 and the G5x3 cam. It's really a question of what you want, there's as many opinions about cams as there are cams out there.

 

i will buy the headers before i do the install i want to have everything that im doing together to save money. Then defently a tune, Does anyone have a ballpark figure of what rwhp?

 

With a manual, depending on the size of the cam, you would see between 410rwhp and 450rwhp on our Mustang MD-1100SE dyno. I've had two 02-04 Z06's with Kooks headers, Vararam intakes, and our "X" cam make between 438-440rwhp with stock heads.

Automatics you can expect between 400rwhp and 440rwhp on our same dyno, once again depending on the cam size.

If you're expecting to make more than 420rwhp on our dyno (440rwhp on a dynojet), I would suggest 1 7/8" x 3" headers.

 

I had the 224/224 .561 114 cam in for about 2 weeks when I did my head swap. I was not happy with it so upped it to a 228/228 .588 114 cam. It made a nice difference over the 224 (17 rwhp), but still wish I went bigger.

I did mine about 4 years ago so was worried about driveability. Now they can tune the bigger cams to be more streetable. If you have a MN6, I would not go below a 228.

Definately get the headers first. They made a huge difference by themselves.

 

auto or stick a 224/228 with .581 lift on 112 cl (114 if you want a smoother idle) will work. this would be the min.
are these heads cut? 62cc?
What head gasket 0.053 or 0.040?
I like to use a DCR calculation to pick cams.

I like the added exhaust duration with ls6 heads.
a 3200 stall with the auto is recommended.
a 3.42 gear in an auto or a 3.90 gear in a stick helps the package.
some KOOK or LGM headers
I like spending your money

 

I have a m6, i was hopeing with a tune after the install i would be around 450. Im probably going to go with close to the biggest cam i can fit. I dont really know to much about cams so just trying to do a little research before i talk to the shop thats going to do my install.

 

If you're shooting for 450rwhp (DynoJet, M6) with ported LS6 heads and intake, you're going to want to go with something like the G5x3 or G5x4 or bigger. Both those cams have good enough street mannors that you could drive the car all year.

 

Never underestimate the factory exhaust manifolds!! As we all know, or should know, headers are the BEST way to go if you want the most power. BUT... I believe that because of some REALLY BAD factory designs over the last 50 years, or more, we are all kind of "brainwashed" into ditching the factory set-up first, and not really giving it a fair shake. My short answer is to agree with the majority and say get the headers and be done with it, as you will probably end up with them eventually, anyway. I did, and have Kooks 1-7/8 lg. tubes-partly because I went with a 427 cube motor. But, with a stock motor in my 2000 convertible A4 w/3.15 gears, after I ditched the cats and put Flowmasters on, I ran a best of 12.89@109.97, and got kicked off the track for being too fast for running w/o a rollbar. I feel this is a real good E.T./m.p.h. for the combo I ran that day, and what I ran that day was through the stock exhaust manifolds. I think that headers are a more important addition when you go for more displacement, or a "max. effort" car. One big advantage the stock manifolds have is they tend to lower the underhood temp. by a considerable margin. As far as sound goes, EVERYONE at the track that day (Ubly, Michigan) thought I already HAD headers installed, and comments like "that really sounds nice" were heard from several people, none of whom I had met previously. My e.t./m.p.h. was also achieved with "runcraps", as the 60ft. time of 1.99 reflects. That day was what sold me on the LS1 motors. I have NEVER seen an engine run so hard with NO internal mods. at all. With a good set of drag radials, I would have been in the VERY low 12's, at least. Again, I believe, like the rest, you probably should go with headers, but if your short on cash and do everything else you plan on, it sure wont ruin your cars performance if you retain the stock manifolds. Just curious, but are they LS6's, LS1's, what? The 6's are supposed to be better, but if you have to invest ANY cash on your exhaust, GET THE HEADERS. A word of advice on the cam- If you DO retain the manifolds, I'd invest in a cam with a "dual pattern", and give the exhaust a little more help with an extra 4 degrees or so of duration. Just my .02! Good luck!

 

right now just the stock ls1 headers. After i figure out which cam im going with then i'll probably try to find a good set of used headers and more than likely a clutch to. I just want to make sure i have everything im gonig to mod together when i take it to the shop, i dont want to have to be making frequent trips up there every month. thanks for everyones help...

 

Can you explain that a little further for me? I'm a cam newbie and have no idea what dual pattern and 4 degrees of duration mean.

 

I dont really know what it means either. I was trying to do a search for it but didnt come up with much.

 

what are the specs on a ZO6 cam?
I it considered "big" or moderateor???

How does that compare to a non ZO6 car?
I am also a cam newbie !

 

Neither. It is considered very small, and for all the work and disassembly it takes just to get to the cam, it's really not worth the time or effort. It might get you 10-15hp over a C5 cam.

Cams are commonly referred to as a "size" by it's duration values. Of course there are many other factors and specs to consider, but duration is the one spec that will quickly tell you what a cam is all about.

In general, low duration = docile manners with a low rpm range.
High duration = high rpm powerband, rough idle, worse manners, etc.

The typical scale of aftermarket cam durations (@.050, which is what most now advertise) goes like this:

210-220 - Baby cam, slight power increase, car will run and drive like stock. Emissions and mileage virtually unaffected.

220-230 - Small cam, car will still behave very well, but enjoy more power throughout the stock powerband (2000-6200rpm). Might be a hint of idle roughness, but easily drivable and docile mannered enough for most anyone. Might still pass emissions if in the low.mid 220s.

230-240 - Moderate cam, loud, rougher idle, lope becomes quite noticible (definitely won't be mistaken for stock), powerband will usually extend to 6500 or higher. Doubtful to pass any emissions sniff test, and mileage probably goes down some. Also at this point, higher ratio gears, and.or higher stall tq converter becomes recommended.

240 and up - Big cam. Very loud, very rough idle, makes big power to 7000+ rpms, generally poor manners at low rpm operation (<2000rpms). Tuning can make these sorts of cams streetable, But they are still not for the faint of heart. Gears and/or high stall tq converter highly recommended.


The 02+ Z06 cam in comparison is a 204/218. You can see where that fits in above.


Again, there is MUCH more to cams than this....just giving you a quick newbie guide as to what people refer to as a big cam, small cam, etc.

Your best bet is to find a local tuner that can help you achieve your goals, not everyone wants the same thing, and cam choice is always a compromise. Generally, the bigger you go, the more peak hp you can expect...but you will need to decide at what point the negatives outweigh the gains.

 

After research I gather that 228/232 is dual pattern with extra 4 degrees on exhaust.

 

We've done extensive dyno testing with ls based camshafts ranging from sizes 220 all the way up to the high 240s duration in stock cube applications.. For awesome daily drivers that have great power potential I typically like the 228R 228/228 .581 camshaft for guys looking for smaller camshafts that will gain approx. 40rwhp or the 231/234 torquer 3 camshaft for guys wanting a little bit more aggressive camshaft that makes awesome power & has a healthy idle..

Here they are:
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=167&catid=44
or
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=669&catid=44

or as a heads cam package with PRC LS6 heads!:
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=680&catid=47


Good Luck

Jason
Texas Speed
www.texas-speed.com

 

Any issues with meeting emissions test with the smaller cam (228/228)?

Missouri guy here.

 

thats what i run with mods in sig i hit 450 through 4:10's. i still have driveability issues though. stalling in parking lots, at stop lights. its very fustrating. its been to my tuner many, many, many times. we cant seem to figure it out. my car is a curse to tune. i think its un tunable