Head swap; What is needed?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 7,727
Likes: 7
From: Twilight zone
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I am not sure how much to read into this,but here is what I did on my 98 a-4 so far.
I added stock 243 heads,ls6 intake,B+B shorties and a tune( no cam yet)onto my vararam and catback equipped car.
It jumped from 304 to 337rwhp and 342 rwtq.So,with a couple supporting mods,it can make a decent difference.
I was very satisfied with that. I figure when I slip a sniffer compliant cam in it,I will see another 30-35 I would guess,and still be Ca. smog legal (as much as a modded car can be.)
I guess if you break it down by pieces,it may look something like this:
Ls6 intake...............3-4 hp
B+B shorty headers....10 hp(many claim none,but I do not agree)
243 heads ...............10 hp
tune........................10 hp
.............................._____
..............................33 hp
EDIT: Oh,and btw,I really wish I would have had them ported,even though I am satisfied with my results thus far.They would have been greater,I am sure.
I added stock 243 heads,ls6 intake,B+B shorties and a tune( no cam yet)onto my vararam and catback equipped car.
It jumped from 304 to 337rwhp and 342 rwtq.So,with a couple supporting mods,it can make a decent difference.
I was very satisfied with that. I figure when I slip a sniffer compliant cam in it,I will see another 30-35 I would guess,and still be Ca. smog legal (as much as a modded car can be.)
I guess if you break it down by pieces,it may look something like this:
Ls6 intake...............3-4 hp
B+B shorty headers....10 hp(many claim none,but I do not agree)
243 heads ...............10 hp
tune........................10 hp
.............................._____
..............................33 hp
EDIT: Oh,and btw,I really wish I would have had them ported,even though I am satisfied with my results thus far.They would have been greater,I am sure.
Last edited by flynbya2; Jan 15, 2008 at 12:44 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 7,727
Likes: 7
From: Twilight zone
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Hopefully someone can confirm or correct me, but the LS6 heads are set up for LS6 cam's smaller base circle. The push rods, though, are the same length. So if you put LS6 heads on an LS1, and don't change the cam (or use shorter pushrods), there will be too much preload on the lifters. Granted, it's only .025, but that might just be enough to float the valves at high RPM. Further, if the LS6 heads have been milled at all, but the valves are still stock, then the problem is worse 
Do yourself a favor and get a pushrod length checker (adjustable pushrod) from Comp Cams (like $20), and read up on how to use it. That will let you know where you stand.
- Colby
Do yourself a favor and get a pushrod length checker (adjustable pushrod) from Comp Cams (like $20), and read up on how to use it. That will let you know where you stand.
- Colby
I wonder about that.I am running 7.4's on mine.I have had 0 issues and it runs like a beast(a mild one at that, by most standards
)I am curious if I did something wrong here...I only turn to 6400 rpm.It could be more apparant to those spinning to higher rpm's,huh?
Last edited by flynbya2; Jan 15, 2008 at 12:56 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 756
Likes: 1
From: Oakton Virginia
Totally agree. When I did heads on my Z28 I decided to go with ARP studs (after reading about cross threading, broken bolts, etc) just for the peace of mind. And if you ever go back and pull them in the future it will be much easier (no more bolt-hole cleaning). Unfortunately, they are expensive- $230-ish.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,302
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, CA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06
thats the only way to go, ARP's are worth the extra money now. To save time and money in the future. And as for the fuel line the tool is only like 13 bucks, it'll be easier and safer just invest..
Racer
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 411
Likes: 1
From: Newhall CA
I agree, too, on the ARP headstuds (what I did)... so, to help in the analysis, here, the GM headbolt price is gonna be about 1/3 of that (I think). So, just think about it being $170 over stock bolts... instead of thinking they're $261 (what I paid through Summit). Also, if you buy DIRECT from ARP, they're more like $400.... so it's a STEAL to buy them @ ~$250
I can't agree/disagree with having them worked. What I can say is that your choices should match each other. You should choose your mods wisely so you don't waste money. LS6 heads and a good cam can make good power, but you may sacrifice streetability. If you don't work the heads over, and you stay with a stock cam, you're not going to get much at all. In fact, I'd go out on a limb and say you won't notice it at all! The cam is the brain of the engine, and if it is opening and closing the valves in the same manner, then you're not gaining much at all. Valve lift can absolutely restrict the flow of your heads. So you have these nice flowing heads, but it isn't flowing well because the part that opens them is lame.
So, I guess I do have a recommendation: I say save yourself some disappointment and sell the heads in exchange for the cam. A good cam can be had for $400 (springs add around $250). I don't know what LS6 heads go for, but I would THINK you could sell them for that! Then, you don't need to buy headbolts/studs and you'll definitely feel the gain.
EDIT: Meant Springs and push rods for about $250.
- Colby
I can't agree/disagree with having them worked. What I can say is that your choices should match each other. You should choose your mods wisely so you don't waste money. LS6 heads and a good cam can make good power, but you may sacrifice streetability. If you don't work the heads over, and you stay with a stock cam, you're not going to get much at all. In fact, I'd go out on a limb and say you won't notice it at all! The cam is the brain of the engine, and if it is opening and closing the valves in the same manner, then you're not gaining much at all. Valve lift can absolutely restrict the flow of your heads. So you have these nice flowing heads, but it isn't flowing well because the part that opens them is lame.
So, I guess I do have a recommendation: I say save yourself some disappointment and sell the heads in exchange for the cam. A good cam can be had for $400 (springs add around $250). I don't know what LS6 heads go for, but I would THINK you could sell them for that! Then, you don't need to buy headbolts/studs and you'll definitely feel the gain.
EDIT: Meant Springs and push rods for about $250.
- Colby
Last edited by C5B; Jan 15, 2008 at 11:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: WC MO
I've been talking with Anthony at LG about a cam kit. Of course I'd like to get everything done, but now is not the time. I can only piece this together. I wouldn't mind getting the heads ported, but I'll have to ask around in my area since I know nothing about this process. Thanks for the advice on the ARP head studs I'll look into them.
