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Found something interesting when I changed plugs

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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 10:09 PM
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Default Found something interesting when I changed plugs

My toy has 93K on it and had the original 41-953 platinum plugs that were gapped at 0.060" when new. The old plugs had gaps ranging from 0.072" to 0.080" (the car was running fine - 31mpg interstate). Is this 20 - 33% larger than specified gap typical or unusual?

All the plugs except #8 were the expected blackish dark brown color. Number 8 was slightly tannish almost white color. I think #8 cylinder is running lean, maybe due to an injector on the way to failing.'
Is there a home-garage way to check the injector for partial plugging?

A final question about the plug -

Afterd swappin out plugs the engine seems to want to hunt around idle speed and idles roughly for a few seconds after coming off the throttle. Is the pulg gap enough of a firing and performance issue that the ECM needs to relearn the spark plug firing and timing since the smaller gap means the engine may be firing a few degrees sooner now than before and effedtively putting in more timing. I'm hoping it learns its way out of this in 25 miles or so.

Charlie
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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Did you notice the platinum "pucks" on the plugs? It is usual for some of those to fall off, that would give you an high gap.

With the voltage available, I am not surprised you noticed no difference.

Make sure you have not broken any wires. I had no problems after replacing my plugs at about 85,000 miles.

Run a can of Techron through it, will help clogged injector.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldvetter
Did you notice the platinum "pucks" on the plugs? It is usual for some of those to fall off, that would give you an high gap.

With the voltage available, I am not surprised you noticed no difference.

Make sure you have not broken any wires. I had no problems after replacing my plugs at about 85,000 miles.

Run a can of Techron through it, will help clogged injector.
Should have mentioned I replaced the wires, made sure the coil connector clicked twice, made sure I had a solid connection on the plug.

There were no pucks on the plugs. Curiously, the tips were pointed much like the iridium plug, not cylindrical.

The car idled smoothly before swapping the plugs and levels out after a few seconds of hunting between maybe 600 and 900 rpm. I had pulled the small diameter tube vacuum line that goes into the air bridge just in front of the throttle body but it is solid. While I'm on it, what is that vacuum line for or what does it do?

I'll take the car out tomorrow for a 30 minute trip or so and see if that makes any difference.

Charlie
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 10:40 PM
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Which plugs, and at what gap, did you install ?????

The PCM does control a number of issues concerning the firing of the plugs ... dwell time being a big part of it, along with when it "fires the plug" by cutting off the voltage to the primary circuit in the coil.

The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) can be forced to do an idle relearn .... that may be what you need.

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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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More than likely as my good friend Oldvetter has said...some of the pucks or maybe all have fallen off... as time goes on the ECM makes slight adjustments as the engine conditions change... You shocked the system with new plugs and wires...it will correct itself on its own, or you can do an idle relearn...
No reason for me to be here Chuck.. seems you have it all covered.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackZ06
Which plugs, and at what gap, did you install ?????
AC iridium 43-985 plugs gapped .040", checked and verified on all eight. A couple were .042 and a light tap on the handle of my ratchet closed it up to .040.

I'm thinking a gap that is nearly half that of the plugs that were in the engine have to be firing a milisecond or three sooner than they were before. I'll post what the result of driving it is.

Charlie
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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I know there is a PCM update for the plugs...its supposed to allow for differences in the plugs along with lots of other things.

Last edited by dgrant3830; Jan 12, 2008 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 11:46 PM
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This is the engine "Idle Learn Procedure" from the 2001 Service Manual ... can't hurt to try ... First step for either transmission is disconnect battery for 5 minutes (remove negative cable (ground) from battery), then re-connect ... then ....


Automatic ....

Turn OFF the ignition
Turn OFF the A/C controls
Set Parking brake and block wheels
Start engine
Ensure engine coolant temperature is 176 degrees or higher
Shift transmission to DRIVE
Allow engine to idle for at least 5 minutes
Shift transmission to PARK
Allow engine to idle for at least 5 minutes
Turn OFF the engine for more than 30 seconds ...

Manual ...

Turn OFF the ignition
Turn OFF the A/C controls
Set Parking brake and block wheels
Place transmission in NEUTRAL
Start engine
Ensure engine coolant temperature is 176 degrees or higher
Allow engine to idle for at least 5 minutes
Turn OFF the engine for more than 30 seconds ...


Last edited by BlackZ06; Jan 12, 2008 at 11:49 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 11:49 PM
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Iridiums come gapped at 0.040 out of the box. Two were gapped at 0.042 and I tapped them lightly to close up to 0.040 because I'm ****.

Hadn't heard about a firmware update. I'll call a dealer to see if they can provide the parts.

Charlie
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cruisemon
I had pulled the small diameter tube vacuum line that goes into the air bridge just in front of the throttle body but it is solid. While I'm on it, what is that vacuum line for or what does it do?
If the other end of that line goes to a nipple on the RH valve cover, then you're talking about the fresh air make-up line for the PCV system.
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cruisemon
Iridiums come gapped at 0.040 out of the box. Two were gapped at 0.042 and I tapped them lightly to close up to 0.040 because I'm ****.

Hadn't heard about a firmware update. I'll call a dealer to see if they can provide the parts.

Charlie
It isn't a part for the firmware update rather them connecting the Tech2 to the car and performing the updates. Before going to that, chances are more that you have a bad wire or just need the idle relearn to be done. A quick and simple method for bad wires is to turn on the AM radio and dial to a frequency where there is no station then listen for spark noise that matches the RPM of the engine. If you hear it, you need wires.
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
chances are more that you have a bad wire
I replaced the wires with Accel 8mm so that probably rules out wires. The idle relearn seems likely.

Charlie
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 01:41 PM
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The small vacuum line on the air bridge is used to make adjustments to your fuel presuure-it should go to your pressure regulator on the other end-It adds pressure with increased airflow or load--shouldn't affect the idle issue--
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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Found the problem. It turns out if the MAF is loose from the bridge enough to allow unmetered air to flow to the engine the ECM gets confused. Stupid computer. Reattached the MAF to the bridge and it works just fine.

Charlie
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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Cool that you found it. You didn't tell us how the MAF came loose in the first place, but any fix is a good fix!
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
You didn't tell us how the MAF came loose in the first place,
Oh that. I put stainless mesh cladding on the upper radiator hose and surge tank return line and had to move the radiator upper cover/support out of the way and it must have happened then.

Charlie
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