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I have heard of people breaking the Torque tube in the C5. I am going to run a DTE brace on the diff and tranny. Is there something to strengthen the Torque tube? or is it necessary?
The rubber bushings on the shaft crack/fail and cause bad vibration.
RPM Transmissions sells a torgue tube rebuild kit.
ECS sells a alum. shaft with U-joints that fits inside of the torque tube.
LG sells solid alum. couplers to replace the rubber couplers.
Would that be the best way to go or since mine is a 98 upgrade to a newer year tube. I know of an 02 and an 04 Torque Tube with around 10K miles each I can get for $500
Aren't the parts to fix your TT cheaper than $500?
Looks like the parts would be $375 from RPM but would I be better with the newer style tube since it's suppose to be stronger. I only have 40K on my C5 and have exploded 1 flex plate, went through 3 transmissions and am only going to break more since I mostly Race it. Sad thing is I'm no where as fast as some othese other guys running stock tubes but plan on working it into the 10's in the next few years.
Looks like the parts would be $375 from RPM but would I be better with the newer style tube since it's suppose to be stronger. I only have 40K on my C5 and have exploded 1 flex plate, went through 3 transmissions and am only going to break more since I mostly Race it. Sad thing is I'm no where as fast as some othese other guys running stock tubes but plan on working it into the 10's in the next few years.
Neal Chance Transmissions here in town. 1st one was stock, 2nd was suppose to be bullet proof, 3rd time they said new updates had came out and they just charged me $300 to fix it back up.
You are correct, the shaft in the newer torque tubes are bigger in diameter. I would go with the newer torque tube, then if the couplers or bearings fail you can up grade them.
Neal Chance Transmissions here in town. 1st one was stock, 2nd was suppose to be bullet proof, 3rd time they said new updates had came out and they just charged me $300 to fix it back up.
There are plenty of guys running a lot more HP/TQ than you with an RPM level 5. If you ever get tired of swapping trannies, give them a call.
I used to race a Wichita dragstrip when I was stationed at McConnell. Lot of fun memories.
You can replace the couplings and/or the bearings but why do it until it breaks. It shouldn't damage anything else if it did break but may mess up the clutch.
The couplers are about $40 and the bearings about $25 each if you spend time to find them yourself. But then, it's not likely your bearings need replacing unless it's a fairly high milage car. I'm at about 110k miles and the front one needs it but the back pair still seem to be good.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Doug@MorosoPerformance
You are correct, the shaft in the newer torque tubes are bigger in diameter. I would go with the newer torque tube, then if the couplers or bearings fail you can up grade them.
Early driveshaft diameter= 55mm. Later (mid '01 change) driveshaft= 63mm.
If you can get a good torque tube assembly for $500, snap it up. Well worth it. Just check the bearings and couplers to make sure they're OK. The couplers are NOT available from GM as a separate item, but ARE available separately from other sources.
BTW, I'm sure you probably know, but 6spd and A4's are different.
I found a local salvage today that has an '02 Assembly with 72K on it that comes with front and rear bell housings, flex plate, converter plate and converter. Not that I need any of that. $375, 6 month guarantee. Never know when I will explode another Flex plate and bell housing. Or maybe sell the other pieces and get some money back.
Anyone think I should pass? And who has the couplers by them self?