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Please HELP ME..I may shoot my Z06..electrical problem

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 01:06 AM
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Default Please HELP ME..I may shoot my Z06..electrical problem

Hi guys (and gals) I really need some help! I have an electrical problem that has been kicking by butt for the last 6 months. I hope Mr. BC sees this post and can add his impute as well. When I insert the key and move to the start position, half the time I get the idiot and dash lights at 50% brightness and a low voltage warning on the DIC. If I turn the key off and try again I may get the same problem or everything may be normal and she will start and drive normally?? Tonight after work I had the same problems and then decided to reset all the codes, start from scratch and see what happens. My first attempt was as described above, dim dash lights and a low voltage warning. Second attempt was the same but also got a Service Traction Control and Reduce Power Warning. Third attempt was the same again but also got a pull key & wait 10 seconds warning….never got this before and I have a CLB installed. Fourth attempt the dash lights were bright and the car started normally and I drove 20 miles home without a problem. I love my car but I’m at the end of my patience.

The only codes I got after all this was:
P1571H
C1277H
B0432H
U1040H

So far I have replaced the battery with a new Red Top, I have replaced both poss & neg battery cables and re-installed them to about 15 lbs to be sure. I have also gone through all the grounds as per BC’s suggestions.

I love my car but I don’t trust it anymore, if you have a suggestion, please let me know….
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 01:10 AM
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I'm sure Bill Curlee will have the best advice for you. My first thought is to check the crimps on the major power wire going to the underhood fuse box. Look for any wire insulation that show discoloration. Do you know how to use a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter)? If so, start with the battery of course and verifiy power there. Then check at the starter, fuse box and so on. Also, have you checked for water dripping on the BCM from possibly plugged udders?
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 01:32 AM
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I see problems like this all the time and 99% of the time it is ground related. There may be some corroded grounds that may appear clean and tight. I would remove them all and sand the terminals and the body to be absolutely sure. Even though you have gone through them there may be a couple that you might have overlooked.

I feel your frustration, stay positive and you will find it. When you do you'll think, "That caused all my problems?"

Justin
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 02:06 AM
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You may want to check the wiring around the starter motor ... See Bill Culee's post in this thread ... it sounds like a similar problem, and the other person feels this fixed his issue ...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1563608900

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Thank you for the ideas. When I replaced the battery cables, I found the main connection at the starter was very loose. I was hoping that was the problem but it wasn’t. I also crimped and soldered the ground splice packs together on the upper fender wells and the one behind the battery. I’m thinking the ignition switch is bad but it’s just a guess.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:21 PM
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After careful review of this issue I recommend that you check the ignition switch (the electrical switch side of the thing) and make sure you have a FULL 12 VDC on the following pins on the switch when the issue is happening:

F, G, H and I

I bet thats your issue!

BC
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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I got the code B2723 pass key detection - no click, click, no nothing when trying to start - hope it is the ignition switch as I pulled it out and have ordered another one to put in
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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Thank you Bill for your input. I think I'll go ahead and order a new ignition switch and get it installed. I can't imagine they can be that expensive. I appreciate this forum and all it's members, we’ll see what happens after the install.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fastvetZ06
Thank you Bill for your input. I think I'll go ahead and order a new ignition switch and get it installed. I can't imagine they can be that expensive. I appreciate this forum and all it's members, we’ll see what happens after the install.
CORVETTE Part NOT expensive? WHERE????

I believe you may change your mind once you find out how much they are. Why not pull it out and attempt repair? You cant lose!

Hey, if you do order a new part, save the old switch and send it to me. Ill pay shipping. I want to play and see whats it all about!

BC
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 10:16 AM
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Hi Bill,
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing?


1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette - AC Delco Ignition Switch
Our Price: $58.57Quantity: Part Number: ACD1499CMFR#: D1499CDescription:AC DELCO, IGNITION SWITCH -- OEM Design Ignition Switch, A High Quality Direct Replacement

BTW I'd be happy to send you the old one and I'll pay the shipping!!
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by fastvetZ06
Hi Bill,
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing?


1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette - AC Delco Ignition Switch
Our Price: $58.57Quantity: Part Number: ACD1499CMFR#: D1499CDescription:AC DELCO, IGNITION SWITCH -- OEM Design Ignition Switch, A High Quality Direct Replacement

BTW I'd be happy to send you the old one and I'll pay the shipping!!
They use to be $100++ dollars! Is that Gene's price?

Bill
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
After careful review of this issue I recommend that you check the ignition switch (the electrical switch side of the thing) and make sure you have a FULL 12 VDC on the following pins on the switch when the issue is happening:

F, G, H an

I bet thats your issue!

BC

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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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OK Bill,
Just placed my order with Gene. Under $60 with shipping! I'll let you know how it goes when I have it installed. I hope this is the fix
Either way I'll be sending you my old one.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 11:53 AM
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I always have to prove to my self that I have the SMOKING GUN before I pull the ORDER PARTS lever.

If you pull down the switch and read the output pins when the problem is occurring, you will see lower than battery voltage on the pins if it is truly the problem.

I hope I was right to but, I like to be absolutely positively sure.

Please let us know how you make out.

BC
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 04:33 PM
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I guess my thought is if I'm going to take it apart anyway, I may as well drop in a new one. I wouldn't have the same attitude if it cost alot. I'll also be sure and check voltage as well
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 11:42 PM
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Hi Bill,
I understand Gene has shipped the ignition part so I'll have it in a few days. Do you have any information that would show me which pins I should check voltage on? F, G, H and I
Thanks Mark-
Also PM me with your address, either way this works out, I would like to send you my old ignition switch.
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 01:46 AM
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Well, I finally changed out my ignition switch and had the car out for the day. Everything seems fine so far I sure hope this was the fix!
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 06:33 AM
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It could be the ignition switch.
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fastvetZ06
Well, I finally changed out my ignition switch and had the car out for the day. Everything seems fine so far I sure hope this was the fix!
Excellent! Keep us posted on how every things working. You started a trend. There are 4-5 people now with very similar symptoms. I buying stock shares in the company that makes those switches! Looks like sales will be increasing rapidly!

PM Sent
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave00C5
It could be the ignition switch.
Says the user that doesn't read an entire thread.

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