My 400rwhp goal
#21
Race Director
You should be close with those mods, but I would do as some others have said..if you dont port the heads, go a tad bigger on the cam.
I am at 410RWHP and 403Trqe with the following mods:
AFR205heads
228/232 113LSA .590 .588
Long tube headers
LS6 intake
2001 MN6
My tune is fairly conservative and I am running a tad rich. As far as your clutch goes, well that all depends on how much you go to the track, and how hard you drive it on the street. My synchros were already going when I was stock..and I still managed to get another 1 year out of my stock clutch at my power level, but I dont really track the car..just pound around on the street a bit. My clutch had about 38k on it when I had it changed.
I am at 410RWHP and 403Trqe with the following mods:
AFR205heads
228/232 113LSA .590 .588
Long tube headers
LS6 intake
2001 MN6
My tune is fairly conservative and I am running a tad rich. As far as your clutch goes, well that all depends on how much you go to the track, and how hard you drive it on the street. My synchros were already going when I was stock..and I still managed to get another 1 year out of my stock clutch at my power level, but I dont really track the car..just pound around on the street a bit. My clutch had about 38k on it when I had it changed.
Last edited by FrankTank; 01-25-2008 at 11:15 PM.
#22
Burning Brakes
LS6 heads do not require anything extra to install on a LS1. Just be aware that the LS6 heads and the LS2 heads are the same with the exception of the valves. If you have LS6 heads you also have slightly longer valves and need new pushrods (or the LS6 cam)
Now, you mentioned that you have a LS6 cam already. Did you change out pushrods? The LS6 cam has smaller base circles (bad memory, but I want to say 0.050???, also, the 2001 LS6 cam does not apply) Someone with more knowledge on valvetrains will need to chime in, but I believe for reliability sake you should make sure your geometry is correct.
#23
In my humble opinion, the LS6 heads are not worth the money. I say just by LS2/243 castings (much cheaper) and slap them on. Your REAL bang is coming from the cam anyway. Those light valves aren't worth much in revs or power.... but ARE cool Look at it this way: If you're having them ported and polished.. and revalved with bigger ones, you just wasted money on light, sodium filled valves. Buy the cheaper ones... you prolly won't notice the difference.
- Colby
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Knoxville Tennessee
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Correct. The Center to Heal distance (radius of the Base Circle) is then about .025, so you'll need pushrods that are .025 LONGER if you have stock 241 heads. If you did NOT change the pushrods, and still have 7.4's, then you should have more noise than normal (now), but will be fine if you put STOCK LS6 heads on. If you just find 243 castings and are not sure that they're LS6 and NOT LS2, then you're in the dark and should just use a pushrod length checker to figure it out.
In my humble opinion, the LS6 heads are not worth the money. I say just by LS2/243 castings (much cheaper) and slap them on. Your REAL bang is coming from the cam anyway. Those light valves aren't worth much in revs or power.... but ARE cool Look at it this way: If you're having them ported and polished.. and revalved with bigger ones, you just wasted money on light, sodium filled valves. Buy the cheaper ones... you prolly won't notice the difference.
- Colby
In my humble opinion, the LS6 heads are not worth the money. I say just by LS2/243 castings (much cheaper) and slap them on. Your REAL bang is coming from the cam anyway. Those light valves aren't worth much in revs or power.... but ARE cool Look at it this way: If you're having them ported and polished.. and revalved with bigger ones, you just wasted money on light, sodium filled valves. Buy the cheaper ones... you prolly won't notice the difference.
- Colby