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243 heads questions

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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #1  
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Default 243 heads questions

I have a bare set and I have the light weight valves for them; will I need to do anything special to install those using Comp 918 springs? Will I need shorter push rods and will the use of a thinner head gasket and or shaved heads change the length needed?
How much to shave off stock 243s to get the 62cc chambers; is this preferred over the thinner gaskets or vise versa?

Mods will be going into/onto a 99 LS1 with 56000 mi.:
TSP228R 581/581 114LSA Comp 918 springs
KOOKS 1 3/4 with hiflow cats, 3" to the back
243 heads
Still looking for that 200.00 LS6 intake. (curse those other biders on ebay, lol)

Just running the Blackwing, hiflow air bridge, and the 85mm MAF now.
Looking to get close to the 400 mark, with good torque under the curve, just a street driver with no track interest, (not yet anyway).
Thanks to all that can help. Steve

Last edited by coanan; Jan 28, 2008 at 08:42 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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Give Gunnar a call at Patriot Performance-I have his 243 CNC'd heads w/ 62cc chambers and double gold springs
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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You want to avoid the 918 springs. There have been reports of failures with these. Go with the 921s instead.

Milling the heads will increase the compression ratio, which will bump up HP + TQ.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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anyone else, really need the help. Thanks
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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ttt
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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Lightweight valves make using 918 springs possible but it may be safer going to patriot dual or 921 comps. I am not sure lift with your cam but it probably is around .590 at .050. This is pushing close to upper limits of 918 springs. Again the lightweight valves make this more tolerable.

I believe the lightweight valves are slightly longer than standard non hollow valve 243 heads so you may need to check for correct pushrod length.

If you run 62 cc heads (milled 65 stock approx .015) and run a Cometic .040 head gasket you will probably have approx. 11.1 compression ratio. This may let you use a 7.350 or 7.400 (stock length) pushrod.

I have a similar setup and run 7.350 pushrods but I do not have the lightweight valves.

Always double check for correct pushrod length. This setup should net you approx. 410 RWHP.

Last edited by J.R.; Jan 28, 2008 at 09:35 AM. Reason: correct info
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by coanan
I have a bare set and need valves and spring seats. I have a chance to buy the light weight valves for them; will I need to do anything special to install those using Comp 918 springs? Will I need shorter push rods and will the use of a thinner head gasket and or shaved heads change the length needed?
Will the valves and spring seats work from the 853, 241, 806 heads? Really need to keep the costs down and was hoping for donated valves and spring seats. LOL.
How much to shave off stock 243s to get the 62cc chambers; is this preferred over the thinner gaskets or vise versa?

Mods will be going into/onto a 99 LS1 with 56000 mi.:
TSP228R 114LSA Comp 918 springs
KOOKS 1 3/4 with hiflow cats, 3" to the back
243 heads
Still looking for that 200.00 LS6 intake. (curse those other biders on ebay, lol)

Just running the Blackwing, hiflow air bridge, and the 85mm MAF now.
Looking to get close to the 400 mark, with good torque under the curve, just a street driver with no track interest, (not yet anyway).
Thanks to all that can help. Steve
If you don't have the valve springs, consider the PAC 1518's. Much better spring that will last longer.

Seats are part of the seal if you use the new design (02+) and you can get them from GM. Shims can be bought from Comp that go right over the top of the seat/seal. They are available as individual thicknesses or as a kit with all three thicknesses. You want the 1.25" OD shims shown below.

Milling will increase compression, thinner gasket provides better quench and will allow more timing. Consider both, but use a dynamic compression calculator to sort it out. If you go thinner, surface finish on the heads is critical so don't let just anyone mill them. The requirements for the surface finish can be found on Cometics web site.

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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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No problems with the 918's here---
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 06:23 PM
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Comp has redesigned the 918 beehive springs, and they will replace your older 918 springs with a brand new set. This is from my personal experience, and not some urban legand. I called their tech support, and gave them the batch number from the 918's that I had recently purchased (off Ebay no less). They said that batch was not on their watch list, but that they would prefer to swap them out anyway. I received a set of new design springs 2 days later, with a return shipping label for my original set. Not bad customer service there.
The new 918 springs have been tumbled, which provides the bling finish. The max. lift is up from .600" to a conservative .620". I have around 4000 miles on my 918 springs, with zero problems.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by chevy406
Comp has redesigned the 918 beehive springs, and they will replace your older 918 springs with a brand new set. This is from my personal experience, and not some urban legand. I called their tech support, and gave them the batch number from the 918's that I had recently purchased (off Ebay no less). They said that batch was not on their watch list, but that they would prefer to swap them out anyway. I received a set of new design springs 2 days later, with a return shipping label for my original set. Not bad customer service there.
The new 918 springs have been tumbled, which provides the bling finish. The max. lift is up from .600" to a conservative .620". I have around 4000 miles on my 918 springs, with zero problems.
I have the blue stripe on mine, but don't have the original box to check the batch number. I guess I could call them anyway, might get lucky. Thanks
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 08:40 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
If you don't have the valve springs, consider the PAC 1518's. Much better spring that will last longer.

Seats are part of the seal if you use the new design (02+) and you can get them from GM. Shims can be bought from Comp that go right over the top of the seat/seal. They are available as individual thicknesses or as a kit with all three thicknesses. You want the 1.25" OD shims shown below.

Milling will increase compression, thinner gasket provides better quench and will allow more timing. Consider both, but use a dynamic compression calculator to sort it out. If you go thinner, surface finish on the heads is critical so don't let just anyone mill them. The requirements for the surface finish can be found on Cometics web site.

I’ve never put heads together, so educate me. I need to do this the least expensive, but reliable way. I already have the springs and a cam with 581 lift. What I have are a bare set of 243 heads with light weight valves and Comp 918 springs to go on, that’s it. Please fill in the banks to make them whole again. I get more enjoyment out of doing my own work, so sending them out to be assy. is not an option.
1. Are the factory seals with the seats the way to go?
2. I also read to use the Exh. Seals on the In. side also, (good or bad idea)?
3. Are the shims required and how do you know which thickness?

I will more than likely just do one or the other:
1. Mill heads to 62cc and use the OEM gasket
2. Stock chambers and the Cometic gasket
Or should I do both:
1. Mill heads to 62cc and use the Cometic gasket
Looking for the best bang without the headaches.

What’s the dynamic compression calculator, can someone help me out? Thanks

Last edited by coanan; Feb 1, 2008 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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