Horn click no sound
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
You sure do seem to be having a lot of problems.
I would first check the fuse and the connection at the horn to see if it works.
You can set the car's horn to beep from the DIC when locking the car to test the horn.
If the horn does not work, you'll have a few things that could cause the problem. It's PIA to access.
You'll have to disable the air bag system, remove the airbag and the steering wheel to check the connectors inside the steering column.
I "F" ed mine up removing my steering wheel because I used a heat gun to try and expand the metal some because my steering wheel was on there like a ****. I ended up melting the plastic socket and had to take the steering column aprt to fix it.
Part was like $6 bucks, the aggrevation was priceless.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: USA
I have had too many electrical issues with this beast.... But what can I say I love this car. I will not go to the stealership for every little thing... But the horn did work when i first bought her. it does make a faint sound in the horn still when I hit the remote. I was just curious as to what can prevent a new one from doing the same thing... There should be no reason why a horn should go... My 1976 corvette had its original horn in her. my 1986 and 1988 corvette had its original. but my 1998 corvette has had more problems then all combined.. Luckily I got a extended warranty a year ago.... or i would of pd for a starter, and a radiator, and a wiper motor.. I still have 2 years on that warranty and its already paid itself off.
But other than that the column lock problem happened to me, horn, both seats switches and one seat relay, oil pressure sensor, knock sensor, starter relay, and a outside air temp sensor,and tire sensors.... thats really all that went wrong with my car... 10,000 miles later or 1 year and 3 months of owning her.. She does have 103,000 miles on her. My plans soon are to put the heads up unit, I just purchased. But all in all, she is soooooo much fun to drive!
But other than that the column lock problem happened to me, horn, both seats switches and one seat relay, oil pressure sensor, knock sensor, starter relay, and a outside air temp sensor,and tire sensors.... thats really all that went wrong with my car... 10,000 miles later or 1 year and 3 months of owning her.. She does have 103,000 miles on her. My plans soon are to put the heads up unit, I just purchased. But all in all, she is soooooo much fun to drive!
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,592
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
Before I started tearing the steering wheel apart, the first thing I would check is the wiring connections on the horns themself and the ground. When you hit the PANIC button on the FOB do the horns sound off? Also, you can take a wire connected to POS term on battery and touch it to the connection on the horn to see whether or not the horn is defective.
Last edited by PierEagle; Feb 6, 2008 at 03:50 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,933
Likes: 30
From: San Rafael CA
If the horn isn't working when you hit the PANIC button on your fob, then the steering wheel has nothing to do with it.
The horn is sounded by the BCM when you hit the PANIC button. The BCM energizes relay 36 in the underhood Fuse Block. The relay energizes a DARK GREEN wire (Circuit 29) through Fuse 11 (20 Amp) direct to the Horn assembly. The horns are then grounded by a BLACK wire (Circuit 150) which goes to Splice Pack 100, which is then grounded at G102.
I'd check for 12 volts on the DARK GREEN wire when either the BCM is commanding the horns on, or someone is pressing the horn button on the steering wheel (as that also energizes Relay 36). If you have 12 volts, check the Splice Pack, it could well be corroded internally. Obviously also check the G102 ground point.
See Bill Curlee's excellent sticky at the top of this forum for info (and pics) on cleaning splice packs.
If you have power and a good ground, then the horns have failed. I'm betting on a bad ground.
The horn is sounded by the BCM when you hit the PANIC button. The BCM energizes relay 36 in the underhood Fuse Block. The relay energizes a DARK GREEN wire (Circuit 29) through Fuse 11 (20 Amp) direct to the Horn assembly. The horns are then grounded by a BLACK wire (Circuit 150) which goes to Splice Pack 100, which is then grounded at G102.
I'd check for 12 volts on the DARK GREEN wire when either the BCM is commanding the horns on, or someone is pressing the horn button on the steering wheel (as that also energizes Relay 36). If you have 12 volts, check the Splice Pack, it could well be corroded internally. Obviously also check the G102 ground point.
See Bill Curlee's excellent sticky at the top of this forum for info (and pics) on cleaning splice packs.
If you have power and a good ground, then the horns have failed. I'm betting on a bad ground.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,200
Likes: 4,187
From: Kannapolis NC
Go about this with a plan. If the HORN clicks (not the relay) then your horn button and wiring must be good. If the relay clicks, the horn button still has to be good. Either measure for 12 volts on the horn with button pushed, or sub in a used horn long enough to test. Maybe the horn itself got wet. Don't go tearing the wheel apart, it that contact wasn't working, you wouldn't hear a click when you press it. I'm betting on the horn or ground. If you can hear the relay clicking, it's possible that the output contacts on the relay are burned or corroded. Please post what you find.
