Clutch Replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Clutch Replacement
Alright, turns out that my pressure plate is gone. I am going with a Spec Stage 3? Does anyone have this clutch as a daily driver? Also the most important question. I am considering replacing the clutch myself due to the fact that labor is going to run me 900$ being the cheapest quote i've got for labor alone. What kind of tools do I require. I'd like to get some feedback from some DIY'ers that have done this already. I have a 2000 Coupe. Please post as much as you can and help a fella brother out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,047
Likes: 252
From: San Diego
Doing the clutch yourself is not that bad. I have done it 3 times and going to do it again. Take a look at this link to get the idea. Click on Dopes clutch write up.
http://www.cajundude.com/c5techhome.htm
http://www.cajundude.com/c5techhome.htm
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Here's some of my tips. Link
You will need a tranny jack (two is better). Service manual calls for new nuts on the rear cradle, most don't bother but I did do this. Get a speed bleeder, best investment that you can make for the clutch. Also, I found when I installed the alignment tool in the pilot, disc and pressure plate there was a bit of slop. So I just snugged the pressure plate with my fingers and then measured the distance from the alignment tool the the pressure plate fingers to make sure it was truly centered. I would also recommend all new hydraulics so you get the latest upgrades and rid the system of any gunk. There were some recent posts on disassembly of the master and it was full of crap. If you have the service manual it is helpful on several steps. However, the service manual missed on cable clamp that is on the forward end of the transmission right behind the last channel tunnel clamp that goes around the rectangular cover on the wire bundle (this will make more sense later). The two things I struggled with the most were disconnecting the master from the slave (three hours
) and re-installation of the master into the firewall (another three hours). The job is a lot of work, but it is not hard if you take your time and plan ahead. You will need several extensions to tighten/torque the torque tube into position, I think I had about 30" of extension. Keep an eye on the intake as you drop the rear so you don't hit the firewall. I found the part that will hit first is the AIR check valve behind the driver's side head. If you have a FAST intake, remove it first before starting. If you have headers, they need to come off as well unless the are shorties.
I did it alone on my back and when I look back at the pictures I still think I was out of my mind, but it wasn't that bad
You will need a tranny jack (two is better). Service manual calls for new nuts on the rear cradle, most don't bother but I did do this. Get a speed bleeder, best investment that you can make for the clutch. Also, I found when I installed the alignment tool in the pilot, disc and pressure plate there was a bit of slop. So I just snugged the pressure plate with my fingers and then measured the distance from the alignment tool the the pressure plate fingers to make sure it was truly centered. I would also recommend all new hydraulics so you get the latest upgrades and rid the system of any gunk. There were some recent posts on disassembly of the master and it was full of crap. If you have the service manual it is helpful on several steps. However, the service manual missed on cable clamp that is on the forward end of the transmission right behind the last channel tunnel clamp that goes around the rectangular cover on the wire bundle (this will make more sense later). The two things I struggled with the most were disconnecting the master from the slave (three hours
) and re-installation of the master into the firewall (another three hours). The job is a lot of work, but it is not hard if you take your time and plan ahead. You will need several extensions to tighten/torque the torque tube into position, I think I had about 30" of extension. Keep an eye on the intake as you drop the rear so you don't hit the firewall. I found the part that will hit first is the AIR check valve behind the driver's side head. If you have a FAST intake, remove it first before starting. If you have headers, they need to come off as well unless the are shorties.I did it alone on my back and when I look back at the pictures I still think I was out of my mind, but it wasn't that bad
