You WILL NOT need to change the lock cylinder if just the "ELECTRICAL" portion of the switch is bad. Its removable from the cylinder section. If your cylinder cection goes bad, any lock smith can rekey a new cylinder to your OEM Key. Try the electrical switch repair first. Contact Gene Culley at www.gmpartshouse.com for the best price or get ready to hand over an arm and a leg to the local GM Stealership pats guy.

BC

 

Bill,

Weren't you getting a defective switch to play with.......I'm assuming the mechanical portion (spring release and stop detent) has gone bad
but I've never seen the mechanism. I'm assuming the electrical body is OK?? Is there a documented procedure somewhere on the removal?

...........And no, I don't carry 5 lbs of crap on the ring (3 keys and miniature Swiss army knife), no fob.

 

Hi all, went down this road and it was a piece of cake! I ordered the ignition switch from Gene for under $60 shipped and it took less than an hour from start to finish to put it in. All my problems have gone away I also dropped my old switch in the mail yesterday to Mr. BC, He should have it soon so he can take it apart and see what makes it tick!! Good Luck

 

 

We will see what went bad! Remember fastvetZ06's issue was a little different that some of the other ignition switch issues but it all boils down to the same simple problem. The contacts (breaker point type of switch) are spring loaded shut and open with a cam. If that spring tension between the contacts gets weak, the contacts start to heat up and arc or corrode from the poor connection. Once that happens, you get the fluky connections and the problems your seeing. Some times you get a poor connection and will only see 6-8 VDC out of the switch. When that happens, you hear the relays chatter and the lights go dim or out. Some contacts are spring loaded open and shut with the cam. Those will fail a lot less than the other but still can fail if the arm deforms over time and looses tension.

I worked with electronics a lot when I was in the Navy. Ive see stuff like this a quite often.

You think theres a high Corvette TAX, on Corvette parts wait till you see what a SUBMARINE TAX look like on NAVY Electronic parts!!

BC

 

Hi all, I'm new here and just joined the Corvette Forum today. I have had a starting problem with my 2001 6-spd for the last few months. After putting up with this aggravation and having it checked out at the dealer I couldn't believe it when I read this thread and found that others have had very similar problems. About 50% of the time when I start my car I will think it is going to start but it dies immediately. Usually it starts the second time but I have had times when I had to start it 3 or 4 times before it would run. After it starts it runs great. The dealer checked the battery and some connections and of course while they had it the starting problem never occurred! (can you believe that?) There have not been any error codes or messages in the DIC and everything else seems to be working ok. I did notice the other day when I had the hood up that when the car is setting and idling if you rev up the engine you will hear a click on the right side of the engine compartment and the under hood light flickers brighter and then when you let the engine idle down you hear another click and it gets dimmer. This is such a small flicker that you almost don't notice it. Can someone tell me if this is probably an ignition switch problem and is the light flicker part of the same problem or is it something else, or is that normal operation? Any help would be appreciated.

 

When it dies, are all the instruments off........also check to see the position location on the key.
If other than "ON", it might be turning its self off.

 

 

There are other tell tail indications that you need to try to observe. Look at the dash and all the gages and see if they reset, change or act abnormal during the problem. Does your fuel pump run for 3-5 sec every time when you turn the key to ON? Listen for it every time you turn the key ON.

No DTC's could indicate a secondary ignition issue or you could indeed be having an ignition switch issue. Your going to need to fool around with the ignition key position to see if that has anything to do with the issue.


BC

BC

 

Isn't it funny how if you have an intermittant problem and you want it to happen, it won't. After spending two days of occasionally going out in my garage and starting my Corvette it continued to start fine. I checked the fuel pump operation like Bill Curlee suggested and it seemed ok. Then with the engine running I did the wiggle test on the ignition switch and key and couldn't get anything abnormal to happen. (I didn't have 5 lbs. of crap on my keychain either) Fortunately it failed to start last night for me on the first try. Without touching anything I started looking at the various issues that have been mentioned to me by all of you. The dash gauges and lights were all dead and when I looked at the ignition switch it looked like it was in between the "ACC" and "ON" positions. (Does this sound familiar RED-C5?) When I touched the key the switch fell back into the "ON" position and the dash lights/gauges came back on. I tried to manually position the key between the ON and ACC postions to replicate the problem but really couldn't get it exactly right. However, it seems that the switch can do it sometimes after you let go of key when starting it.
Bill Curlee - Is there a way to determine which part of the switch needs to be replaced? Is this the same problem as you described earlier about the spring contacts and cam?
RED-C5 - Have you replaced either section of your switch yet?
Thanks to all of you for your input and help!

 

It's interesting to see someone else with this very same unique problem too. If you have a manual you can easily replicate the problem over and over, by not pushing in on the clutch when releasing from the start position. Same may be true if you have an auto and don't but it in "P".

For the time being, I'm attempting to do a controlled slow release from the start position........so far I'm one for one. I also feel I have good engagement once in the "On" position (doesn't seem to want to slip out). I'd like to know which piece of the ignition switch assembly needs to be replace before I proceed.

Just knowing what the problem is and how to possibly control it, makes feel much better......we'll see with time if needs to eventually be replaced.

 

Can't believe it...this morning I went to start the car and nothing..had plenty of lights ...so the battery was good.. I have a 6 sp and it acted like I didn't have the clutch in all the way..I did hear the fuel pumps start and run. I let my foot slip off of the clutch pedal and pull the keys out several times..My 99 had some problems with having to reset the key after 15 seconds.. When it did start it shut right off three times and then it started..Do you think it is the ignition swith? or the start swith that is associated with the clutch..
thanks
Rocket

 

Have you seen this post???????????????

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1951626

Hope this helps. Bend the movable contact arms to apply more pressure and you will have a very nice precise switch feel again!


BC

 

I have to say thanks to this forum, especially Bill Curlee and Red-C5, for solving my problem. I have been experiencing the same intermittent starting problem ( car starts and immediately the shuts shuts off) for about 8 months. The Dealer could not solve the problem and even replaced the ignition switch. I had no starting problems over the winter months, starting the car every 3-4 weeks. Now back on the road the problem resurfaced. I checked the forum again and saw this post. The next time it happened i did the "wiggle test" and the ignition switch had gone past on when released, between on and off, shutting down the engine. I think my problem is solved, thanks again. Dave

 

And that's with a new ignition switch? Which half did they replace: the part with the contacts or the key core or both?
I've been very successful with a slow release while still handing onto the key rather than a total flick release.
This has worked every time.

 

Not sure but they thought the switch was too sensitive. With the car started and running, a minimal amount of pressure on the key would shut the car off. The new switch is exactly the same, too sensitive. I contacted the dealer with my new information and they suggested I call Chevrolet. I contacted them and they are researching the issue. I asked if they have had similar problems reported or if they had made any improvements to the switch. I will let you know if they find anything. For now I will also do the slow release and see how that works.