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Lights on auto temperature control display

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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 12:58 AM
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Default Lights on auto temperature control display

I have a couple of lights that are burnt out on the buttons on my auto temperature control display (not the display itself... the buttons).

Are those lights easily replaceable if I pull the temperature control assembly out and take it apart?

Thanks
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 01:02 AM
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If you are handy with a soldering iron, then yes you can replace the lamps. I suggest that you replace all of them at the same time. The correct lamp would be a 12V @70ma. The closest I found is the following
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=12740233

It requires that you remove the plastic around the lamp and the lead extensions, but otherwise it will work perfectly. Some people get a lamp from RadioShack too and say its just fine.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
If you are handy with a soldering iron, then yes you can replace the lamps. I suggest that you replace all of them at the same time. The correct lamp would be a 12V @70ma. The closest I found is the following
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=12740233

It requires that you remove the plastic around the lamp and the lead extensions, but otherwise it will work perfectly. Some people get a lamp from RadioShack too and say its just fine.
Thanks. I took it apart today.

Any suggestions/tricks on how to do "fine" soldering work like that? I think I will have to get a smaller soldering iron than the one I have...
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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Lots of fine-tipped irons available. Go to RadioShack would be the first choice and if not available there, look for an electronics store. The effort itself is not hard, just don't overheat the boards.
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by NassauBlue98
Thanks. I took it apart today.

Any suggestions/tricks on how to do "fine" soldering work like that? I think I will have to get a smaller soldering iron than the one I have...
Always pre tin the soldering iron (melt some solder on it) and then tin the part you will be soldering to the circuit board. Here's the tricky part, you will need to apply the solder, hold the part, and hold the soldering iron to get the job done. That is why I say tin the part first, that way you can hold the part inplace and heat it with the iron till it tacks itself in position. After that is done touch the tinned iron to the spot you want to solder, holding the part in place with the tip. At the same time place the solder to the contact until it begins to melt and flow onto the circuit board pad. Continue feeding solder to the joint until solder has just covered the contact pad and the part lead you're soldering. As soon as the solder has flowed over the connection remove the iron and let it cool.

Be carefull to apply the iron tip only to the spot you will be connecting to and not any adjacent pads. If you touch an adjacent pad, when you apply the solder it may flow over to thst pad and form a solder bridge between them (a short). If it happens just let it cool and then again heat it up, til it flows, and draw it away from the bridge by pulling it away with the iron tip.

Also be carefull, if you are holding the part it will get hot!


Not rocket science if you just take your time an be carefull.

Last edited by warpster; Feb 17, 2008 at 10:51 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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I got my bulbs at Radio Shack

use a solder sucker to pull the old bulbs
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by thetaxman
I got my bulbs at Radio Shack

use a solder sucker to pull the old bulbs
what were the part numbers?
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 02:37 AM
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Does the display also have bulbs that can be replaced? I just bout a 98 and the display is barely visible.
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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I hear that the display has very tiny resistors on its board that usually have cold solder joints and need to be slightly heated with a soldering iron. Use the search as there are pictures in here somewhere of precisely which ones to re-heat.
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